Do i have to replace my thermal pellet after a engine rebuild? I thought the place i got my engine rebuilt at would of swaped in a new one, but i called them and they only change it under request...so should i swap in a new oem one or maybe even aftermarket? I just swaped in a single turbo and a new motor and i dont want my car going boom when i start it up and drive it to the dyno!

thanks for your input

 

no opinions/imput???

 

Most rebuilders eliminate the thermal pellet with this...



thewird

 

well aparently jpr imports did not?

 

You know, I've been thinking about this issue.

The thermal pellet effectively closes off the oil jets in the eshaft, reducing cooling of the rotors so that you can reach operating temperature faster. I know that it can fail and removing the pellet prevents that possibility. I don't have a thermal pellet on my current engine because it had already been bypassed by someone else when I built it. But I think I might put one back in (brand new) if it comes time for another rebuild.

Without the pellet these cars are annoying in cold weather. They take a long time to warm up and it just sucks while you're freezing your *** off waiting for the heat to come up. You either let it sit there in your driveway forever or you have an unpleasant drive as you wait for it to get to operating temperature. Even though the regular coolant thermostat is closed, there's still really cold oil being sprayed on the rotors which slows down the warmup process.

Mazdatrix has new thermal pellets for ~$55 http://www.mazdatrix.com/b4.htm or you can call Ray Crowe @ Malloy Mazda. That's more than a $10 thermal pellet delete but damn don't you ever just wish you had a normal car that didn't take half an hour to warm up in the morning???

 

I just drive off after idle seems stable . Usually only 10-20 seconds or so and then avoid boost until 70*C water temps and WOT after 80*C. Warms up pretty quick if your actually driving it.

thewird

 

You could install a block heater for the same price as the thermal pellets.

 

If the thermal pellet fails, does the oil pressure increase at idle? or the oil temp go way up?..is there anyway to know the thermal pellet is failing before the engine blows

 

I remember seeing something from Pineapple Racing where they just put 3 washers on the end of the OEM one to keep it in the always open position (so it can't fail and stay closed).

 

The rotors have oil passages in the back, kind of like piston engines with oil-squirters for the pistons. If the thermal pellet fails, oil will not be sprayed into the back of the rotors at all. This is as opposed to the oil not spraying when temps are below 60C and then spraying after that. I've never personally seen one fail so I can't describe the symptoms from personal experience.

 

I'd imagine it would be similar to an oil pressure failure but not as severe. The bearings wouldn't be getting as much oil but the worse problem is the rotors wouldn't be getting as much oil cooling which would lead them to overheat and start scoring the side housings and fusing the side seals into the rotors, as well as oil control ring seal failure. Basically would be something similar to this that would happen... This was caused by 10 minutes of no oil pressure cruising at a steady state on the highway. Probably wouldn't happen as quickly as theres still some oil I imagine.

*Click for high-res





thewird

 

^ yeah I can see that happening

my point was, an old eshaft thermal pellet might be ticking time bomb but a new one is only like $50, so why not replace it and have your engine warm up faster?

 

is there a how to for changing it out to the atkins one?? is it pretty striaght forward or is it just a bitch?

 

This will not cause your car to go boom when you start it up and go on the dyno.

 

ha yeah I didn't mean "ticking time bomb" in the normal sense. The thermal pellet might fail, it might not. I've seen them last over 100k on original engines.

 

It's an "easy swap" as its a direct replacement. You would have to take the front eshaft bolt out, pull out pellet, and insert the new pellet in with the spring same way as stock, and retorque the front bolt to 200 foot pounds. The issue is that when you do this, you risk the bearing falling out of position which means it gets pinched when you torque the bolt and its not something you can see as its behind the front cover. Some say jacking up the front of the car and/or being on an incline is enough to keep the bearing in place but don't quote me on that as I've never done it personally.

Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it until the next rebuild . Was just answering your questions and worst case scenario hehe.

thewird

 

thanks guys