hey guys wondering if its safe running the car without T-stat on our 3rd gens. Will it help cooling better? or will it destroy the engine? need help

 

With T-Stat (gutted or stock).

 

With.

 

Won't destroy the engine, just take longer to warm-up.

 

No, the cooling system needs some restriction to work properly. You have to run a t-stat.

 

I've ran a gutted t stat for 2 years now with no ill effect. Cools much better now.

 

some people say runing the car without THERMOSTAT will destroy our rotary... wondering if its really BAD. It just makes so much sense that running without the THERMOSTAT will make the car run cooler especially when we rev high in the tracks all day. Please help not sure what to run...

 

I don't know what more you want, we said run it with the T-Stat either gutted or stock:

http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...ubject=cooling

 

If you really want to hear someone say to run with out the t-stat, here it is:

Its OK to run without the t-stat.

Did that sound good to you? OK, now here's the truth. Don't run without the t-stat

 

heheha thanks. i am just alittle worried cause im getting my engine build as we speak.

 

Get a new OEM t-stat. Don't go cheapo on this one. Its too important

 

Just buy a new stat. Their cheap and gutting it shows little improvement.

 

I have heard the coolant system needs a restriction in it so that the coolant has time to 'soak' the heat from the engine?

thoughts?

 

There is some truth to that but I run a gutted t stat and it cools a little better than my old 80 t stat.

 

I think there's a passage directly back to the engine that will allow alot of the coolant to bypass the radiator for quicker warm up. Without the t-stat in place this passage is ALWAYS open.

 

For street use, stock t-stat, and usual fan mods like miata switch.

For road racing, gutted stat with plugged bypass, or just stock stat with drill holes around the perimeter. Some resitriction builds pressure to suppress boiling, and pushes more coolant through turbos.

Running 180F+ will make more hp and waste less heat, and help burn off water vapor that builds up in oil.

Good upgrade is add shut off valve in heater core return line (ask cam at pettit). This stops lots of heated coolant from bypassing the rad .... or just run heater on max.

 

What is a good water pump that wont caviation when at higher RPM???

 

One with an underdrive pully attached.

 

So who makes a really good UNDERDRIVE pulley for the water pump to resist caviation at higher RPM and yets still being reliable???