Piston Pete

Well I'm having the dreaded warm engine hard to start problem. Actually, I think it's hard to start other times as well, intermittantly. My question is; can it be related to a bad battery? The reason I ask is, one; I just searched and found several threads on hard starting related to bad grounds or dirty terminals or bad batteries and two; because I'm having trouble starting. I'm thinking that my battery is bad cause when I go to roll up windows with engine off, the windows struggle, taking forever to close. With the engine running the windows go up a lot faster.

It's deffenitely easier to start in the morning, but if I turned it off and try to restart a short while later, it doesn't even do anything. It clicks and then...that's it. After letting the clutch out and depressing it several times, it tries to start. Sometimes it takes a few cranks to start, sometimes not.

So...

Symptom 1
It just clicks and does nothing. After playing with the clutch several times and turning the key a few times as well it finally starts up fine.

Symptom 2
Engine warm. The clicking and nothing problem is there, but this time when the car finally starts, it struggles to do so.

I also wanted to mention something else that might not be related, but my idle struggles a little. If the engine is running and lights are not on, the idle is approximately 750 rpm. If I blip the throttle a little and let it settle, upon returning to normal, the idle dips to 500-600 rpm and almost dies. But when the parking or headlights are on the idle is more stable and doesn't dip quite as much.

Please help in any way.

Thanks,

Ant

spooledUP7

One of your problems may be your battery, alternator, or grounding, but I know for a fact that the click is caused by a dirt starter interlock switch.

I used to think it was a battery related issue, but after my friend told me that he had the same problem with his 7 and that if he played with the clutch while holding the key to start it would start. So, it took out my starter interlock switch and pulled it apart to clean it. It worked. I did the same thing for my friend's interlock switch and it also worked. It's funny how strange it feels having the car start on the first try. Kinda sick to think that I was once used to the anticipated click. Hope this helps.

GsrSol

Could be anything Spooled listed. If it starts fine when cold, you probably have enough cold cranking amps, plus the battery will kind of recharge itself after sitting for a while. Have a parts store test the batt and alt for you, usualy it's free.

badass7

It's the battery ! Try wiggling around the pos. connection and see what you get. If it's loose as mine was you will get that clicking sound while fooling with the connector. Clean the poles thoroughly with a pole cleaner (metalic brush) and make sure there is no corrosion anywhere. If it's still not making a good connection try sticking a small piece of metal (alum. tab) around the pole for a tighter fit.

badass7

BTW, you may have to do that with the ignition in the on position to see if it's really loose and you have a bad connection.

Piston Pete

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll do all that today. Where is this starter interlock switch and what does it do?

This morning it didn't quite fire right up. I think the problem is partly caused be the battery. Would the bad battery be causing my he-he-he-hesitating start-ups too?

Ant

GsrSol

It's probably the battery if it stays running and everything is fine after it has been started. If it loses power while driving, that would be the alternator.

The battery is used to start the car, the alternator runs the car after it has been started. Understand?

I think he is talking about the switch that is located on the top of the clutch pedal that disables startup if the clutch is not pushed in.

spooledUP7

The starter interlock switch is located against the fire wall near the clutch pedal. The switch on top of the clutch pedal is not the one.
It does sound like the battery is going. Make sure the water is not too low. I had a low water level once it wouldn't hold a charge for ****.

Piston Pete

GsrSol,

Thanks for the enlightening feedback. The reason I ask of your assistance in this small prob is just to get different opinions. Problems with our cars can either be very simple yet hard to find or complicated yet easy to repair ie. hose job. I'm pretty convinced it's the battery and going to be getting a new one.

Ant

happyham

piston pete: don't settle with just "convinced". go to any dealership, mazda if possible, and see if you can leech a battery test. park your car right next to the service bay and just walk up to one of the techs (try to avoid service writers or they will try to write you up a diagnosis and charge you for it) and say you probably need a battery but not sure and if he can check it real fast. try to sound casual. if the tech is a dick, he will tell you to go to the service writer.

from reading your symptoms, it sounds like your battery is bad and alternator is probably fine. if it does read "bad", i dont recommend buying a battery from a dealership, cheaper at napa or something.

Piston Pete

"I'm gonna do a search, but in the mean time what kind of battery should I go with?" he says casually.

"Thanks."