Slow2k

iTrader: (9)

So after my latest fix of goofy problems... I've run into another one.
When I attempt to spin the starter through key, it doesn't engage. Sometimes it will click once and just do nothing at all.

I have done the battery relocation according to Moconner's guide, minus the added fuse box. I have the power wire going back to the fuse block thing and my negative post is taped off. I will probably be adding it as a ground soon.

Used 1/0 gauge wire.
Miata Westco Battery
12.5 volts at battery
12.5 volts at the starter post which stays hot all the time.
I have done the clutch switch bypass and security relay bypass.

I put a wire from a open fuse spot that stays hot all the time (12.5 volts), with my ignition in the "on" position and attached it to the signal post (with the signal plug still attached) on the starter that is supposed get power when the key is turned to the start position. The starter just clicked repeatedly and did nothing.

I removed the starter completely, grounded it to my battery and gave it power to the post from my battery, and also gave the signal post power from my battery and it spun well.

I'm a little confused on what to do, it worked fine before I downed the car for the single turbo build. Haven't started the car in about 1 year. I didn't make any modifications to the charging harness at all.

Anyone have any ideas?
Something I stumbled on while trying to do some searches is a bad main fuse, but the starter post sees the constant 12.5 volts, so I ruled that one out.

zUMIEz

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like a bad ground

- Check voltage at the starter post while trying to crank - shouldn't drop below 9.8 volts
- If you have an amp clamp check how much draw the starter is pulling while cranking. If it's really high it's more than likely there is a huge resistance on the ground side of the circuit.
- Make a ground wire and run it from a mounting bolt on the starter to a known good ground. You can use a booster cable and run it right to the battery for testing purposes

Where did this ground wire go to?

Just because the starter is connected to the bell housing doesn't mean it has a good ground.

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

does your engine spin freely by hand? i worked on a kids car once, he/we thought it was a bad starter because it would just click. turned out that the engine was locked solid

Slow2k

iTrader: (9)

That ground wire was the original ground wire for the battery. Right now its taped off doing nothing.
I'll try grounding the starter to chassis and see if it's a grounding issue.

Haha, yeah it does. I made a separate post where I thought it didn't. But that's because it was in gear.

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

if you're saying you taped off the oem negative battery terminal then thats the cause. Just secure that to the frame where the battery tray attaches and you'll be good to go.

Slow2k

iTrader: (9)

Even more stumped now.
This is what I've tried so far.
Bench tested starter. Passed.
Put a jumper cable from one of the starter ears, directly to a paintless part of the chassis.
I've also grounded the original negative battery post to the chassis.

I tried using the starter trigger gun and measured voltage at both the S terminal and the main constant post.

Battery is at 12.45v
The constant post receives 12v.
S terminal 0v.
Upon jumping the constant 12v to the S terminal via starter trigger, constant post drops to 4v and S terminal gets 3v.
I've tried adding a booster wire that recieved power from an open constant 12v fuse slot. No real changes.
While using the trigger I did hear faint clicks everytime I pressed the trigger.
I noticed on the multimeter that the S terminal would SOMETIMES recieve 8-9 volts then drop to 3 regardless of my extra added ground or not.

Besides using the trigger and all the power jumping. After reinstalling the starter, I jumped in the car, turned the key, and I heard the starter click loudly and pretty sure I heard it extend but retract immediately.

It only did it once, on the very first try.

Battery relocation done to passenger bin. 0 gauge from original positive location (fuse box) to circuit breaker (right next to battery) to battery. And 0 gauge ground to chassis. Other than that, I haven't touched much of the electrical harness.

BlueMx5

iTrader: (4)

put a test light on the case of the starter if it lights up when you try to crank starter it will be a bad ground

Slow2k

iTrader: (9)

Save to assume using the starter trigger would work the same way?

Okay...well im totally ******* confused. It started working..
The only change I made since my previous post is that I grounded the wire for the coolant level buzzer.
I went under the car to do the test light on the case, I hooked up the trigger, tested it and it started cranking. I pulled the trigger off, reconnected the s terminal, hopped in the car and it worked.

ondabirdhouse

iTrader: (26)

You said you have a breaker on the Positive cable. Is it a good quality name brand one. I had a similar issue where the breaker (150 amp) burned itself out. The contact points inside the breaker were too small and it couldn't handle the juice aka it was a cheap piece of ****. Anyway, I removed it and I have never had that issue again.