Starter Click Click Problem Solved~~~
#51
What's your point ?
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Gainesville, Fla.
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Just thought I'd post my experience with the no start problem. I changed the ignition switch and it helped for all of 2 days, then regressed back to the point where I would have to turn the key 3 or 4 times before the starter would turn over. I next tried wiring a relay to get a direct feed from the battery (as was recommended earlier in this thread by jeff p) and it worked perfectly, starts all the time now. BTW the ignition switch was $150 from Mazda. The relay, along with various crimps, connectors etc. was about $20. Try the relay first - it's much cheaper!!!
#53
Full Member
For 88SE Hi who requested a writeup - there's not much to wiring a relay. The relay should have 4 or 5 connectors; wiring to these connectors include: a direct fused connection from the battery to the relay; a wire to ground; a wire from a switched source - ie. just use the wire that goes from the car's harness to the starter solenoid; a wire going from the relay back to the solenoid. With all that wiring, I used some electrical tubing to wrap up all the wires into one neat package. Also used various connectors and crimps to keep things tidy. No soldering was required. I used a 30 amp relay, 30 amp fuse, and 18 gauge wires. I've attached a diagram that I found on some website to give an idea of how the relay is wired, along with a photo of my installed relay -it's been installed beside one of the fuse boxes, using the bolt from the fuse box.
Long and the short, when the ignition key is turned, the relay will provide a direct feed from the battery to the solenoid, bypassing much of the original wiring. As with jeff p, I've found this to be a good solution. I note that this has the same effect as using a push start button that others have found to work, or even a remote starter - the original wiring is bypassed. Much cheaper (and more elegant) solution.
Long and the short, when the ignition key is turned, the relay will provide a direct feed from the battery to the solenoid, bypassing much of the original wiring. As with jeff p, I've found this to be a good solution. I note that this has the same effect as using a push start button that others have found to work, or even a remote starter - the original wiring is bypassed. Much cheaper (and more elegant) solution.
#55
Back to basics
iTrader: (4)
Ok guys~~ I will tell you exactly what to look into.
Its not the starter... I heard from mazda that the starter doesn't really go bad on our FD's too much. Since we hear a click click sound we all assume its the starter... and I was exactly like that as well.
EVERYONE SHOULD TAKE OUT THERE IGNITION SWITCH OPEN IT AND USE A WIRE BRUSH ON A DREMEL TO CLEAN OFF THE COPPER PLATES INSIDE.
You guys will notice when you see the copper plates there are some corrosion where the connections are made. If you guys don't know where the ignition switch is~~~
1. Unscrew the plastic that covers where the windsheild wiper controls and where the steering wheel hub is.... you know... where you put your key~~ that place.
2. on the direct opposite side where you insert the key you will find a white plastic cylinder like part where its connected to the wires.... now... all you need to do is unscrew one philips bolt and disconnect the wire connections and WALLA~~~ its out.
3. Take apart the ignition switch carefully and when you open it up you will find some copper plates.... when you use the wire brush especially from a dremel you will notice the copper plates start to become more shiney... polished.
4. Assemble back the parts... reinstall the ignition switch.... and be worry free!!!!
I had two FD's with the same problem and I can finally announce a real fix to this!!!!!
SWEETNESS~~~~
Its not the starter... I heard from mazda that the starter doesn't really go bad on our FD's too much. Since we hear a click click sound we all assume its the starter... and I was exactly like that as well.
EVERYONE SHOULD TAKE OUT THERE IGNITION SWITCH OPEN IT AND USE A WIRE BRUSH ON A DREMEL TO CLEAN OFF THE COPPER PLATES INSIDE.
You guys will notice when you see the copper plates there are some corrosion where the connections are made. If you guys don't know where the ignition switch is~~~
1. Unscrew the plastic that covers where the windsheild wiper controls and where the steering wheel hub is.... you know... where you put your key~~ that place.
2. on the direct opposite side where you insert the key you will find a white plastic cylinder like part where its connected to the wires.... now... all you need to do is unscrew one philips bolt and disconnect the wire connections and WALLA~~~ its out.
3. Take apart the ignition switch carefully and when you open it up you will find some copper plates.... when you use the wire brush especially from a dremel you will notice the copper plates start to become more shiney... polished.
4. Assemble back the parts... reinstall the ignition switch.... and be worry free!!!!
I had two FD's with the same problem and I can finally announce a real fix to this!!!!!
SWEETNESS~~~~
This worked like a charm.
#58
The Laser Man
Thread Starter
#60
The Laser Man
Thread Starter
A push button is awesome too but for me I need a 12V for navi and some other apps from time to time~~~ But I love that feeling when your car starts with a push of a button.... damn S2000!~~~
#63
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Lake Mary, FLORIDA
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not a double post..
just really happy..
how ever there is still an issue down by the kick panel...
the click is gone but there seems to be something loose down there.. when i actually "kick" it ,it starts right up
more info on the relay down there pls....
just really happy..
how ever there is still an issue down by the kick panel...
the click is gone but there seems to be something loose down there.. when i actually "kick" it ,it starts right up
more info on the relay down there pls....
#65
As I'm experiencing the same issue casually, I did the ignition switch clean up yesterday.
I don't know for you guys, but the 6 pins weren't much corroded, I cleaned them anyway but I also unmounted the plastic cylinder in order to check inside. And it was way more dirty in there... I did a full cleanup and mounted it back. Seems to work for now, but as it occurred very occasionally before, I will see in the future if this really helped.
I don't know for you guys, but the 6 pins weren't much corroded, I cleaned them anyway but I also unmounted the plastic cylinder in order to check inside. And it was way more dirty in there... I did a full cleanup and mounted it back. Seems to work for now, but as it occurred very occasionally before, I will see in the future if this really helped.
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