When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
How many miles on those plugs? I would put a new set in, go make some good hard runs, then IMMEDIATELY (e.g., no cruising around) stop, let the engine cool down and check them again. Those appear to have some fouling on them. Stock heat range plugs?
How many miles on those plugs? I would put a new set in, go make some good hard runs, then IMMEDIATELY (e.g., no cruising around) stop, let the engine cool down and check them again. Those appear to have some fouling on them. Stock heat range plugs?
They were changed around 400 miles and less than year ago, stock heat range.
Will do as explained and verify their state, thanks.
What’s the ‘weirdness’ you have? Can you elaborate?
Personally I don’t see too much wrong with them. From their appearance I’d guess you’re still using the OMP. There’s always a bit of carbon build up and yours don’t look unusual. And the center electrode looks as I’d expect from just 400 miles.
It’s actually at start-up and idle when I start to get clues that my plugs are ready to be changed. Just a bit longer cranking, and just a hint of lumpy idle.
What’s the ‘weirdness’ you have? Can you elaborate?
Personally I don’t see too much wrong with them. From their appearance I’d guess you’re still using the OMP. There’s always a bit of carbon build up and yours don’t look unusual. And the center electrode looks as I’d expect from just 400 miles.
It’s actually at start-up and idle when I start to get clues that my plugs are ready to be changed. Just a bit longer cranking, and just a hint of lumpy idle.
I recorded video of my engine shaking and rough idle:
My car ran into stalling and starting issues up until one day where it wouldn't start at all for few months. I chased everything down until I finally replaced the spark plugs and found out they were the issue. If in doubt just replace them.
Does it smooth out at higher rpm? Under boost? How old is your fuel? Have you done a sensor check with the PFC?
Seems normal on boost to me, but on hot start-up it feels like it is running on one rotor but after revving to 3-4k for 5 seconds, it runs as on video.
I tested compression some time ago and it looked fine.
Car was tanked recently.
Do you mean this by sensor check?
Well it’s only a couple seconds of vid but yes…that’s the sensor screen. I’d start checking the abbreviations for anything that might be showing a fault
Well it’s only a couple seconds of vid but yes…that’s the sensor screen. I’d start checking the abbreviations for anything that might be showing a fault
but those “lights” are showing that sensor is in “on/off” state, don’t they?