some noob questions here...
12-20-04, 11:47 AM
#1
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some noob questions here...
ok, i finally remove the turbo's on my fd because of some broken dp studs...
Since i will install the dp, cb and intake mod i heard that its good to port the wastegate to eliminate boost creep & spike....Is it true???
Now, i want to know which one to port? i did my search and all i've found out is : "port the wastegate of the first turbo only"...I dont even know which one is the first or second!!
When porting the wt, is it better to use some drilling lubricant with the carbure bure??
thanks in advance!
Since i will install the dp, cb and intake mod i heard that its good to port the wastegate to eliminate boost creep & spike....Is it true???
Now, i want to know which one to port? i did my search and all i've found out is : "port the wastegate of the first turbo only"...I dont even know which one is the first or second!!
When porting the wt, is it better to use some drilling lubricant with the carbure bure??
thanks in advance!
12-20-04, 11:58 AM
#3
um... i'm pretty sure that unless you're putting in a midpipe you don't need to worry about porting the wastegate. i'm running an Apex'i power intake, a 3" SS downpipe and a Racing Beat cat-back and have never had a problem with creeping. you should invest in either a boost controller or a PFC (or other computer upgrade) or both though because you will be getting better flow through the whole system meaing more boost, not creeping, just more. if it goes over 10psi on that stock computer, you are putting your engine at risk.
i chose to get just the PFC (Apex'i Power FC) because after talking to a few people, i was convinced that it did an adequate job of controlling boost up to 14psi... but that's up to you to decide.
i chose to get just the PFC (Apex'i Power FC) because after talking to a few people, i was convinced that it did an adequate job of controlling boost up to 14psi... but that's up to you to decide.
Last edited by pugg57; 12-20-04 at 12:00 PM.
12-20-04, 12:54 PM
#5
this is true, i couldn't tell ya on that side of things honestly though... just saying though if you plan on going single (replacing the wastegate then) or not ever running a mid-pipe you really may not be gaining anything, but i'll step aside and leave this to someone who can give you a straight forward answer.
good luck
good luck
12-20-04, 02:30 PM
#6
Pugg's right. Porting the wastegate is to eliminate boost SPIKE with a MIDPIPE. It's not necessary with a cat. In fact, many people w/ MPs don't have boost spike at all (me included). It's hit or miss really. Also, porting the WG won't do anything for boost creep IIRC.
A boost controller is def. necessary, esp. on a stock ECU, because although you can boost higher than 10psi on the stock ECU, you'll still be running of a fuel map made for ONLY 10psi. Not good. Also, even w/ a PFC, a boost controller is recommended, since its said that the PFC doesn't do a very good job in controlling boost spike.
A boost controller is def. necessary, esp. on a stock ECU, because although you can boost higher than 10psi on the stock ECU, you'll still be running of a fuel map made for ONLY 10psi. Not good. Also, even w/ a PFC, a boost controller is recommended, since its said that the PFC doesn't do a very good job in controlling boost spike.
12-20-04, 06:32 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by FDNewbie
Pugg's right. Porting the wastegate is to eliminate boost SPIKE with a MIDPIPE. It's not necessary with a cat. In fact, many people w/ MPs don't have boost spike at all (me included). It's hit or miss really. Also, porting the WG won't do anything for boost creep IIRC.
A boost controller is def. necessary, esp. on a stock ECU, because although you can boost higher than 10psi on the stock ECU, you'll still be running of a fuel map made for ONLY 10psi. Not good. Also, even w/ a PFC, a boost controller is recommended, since its said that the PFC doesn't do a very good job in controlling boost spike.
A boost controller is def. necessary, esp. on a stock ECU, because although you can boost higher than 10psi on the stock ECU, you'll still be running of a fuel map made for ONLY 10psi. Not good. Also, even w/ a PFC, a boost controller is recommended, since its said that the PFC doesn't do a very good job in controlling boost spike.
The w/g is the frontmost accuated door, go to the top actuator and follow the arm back. You want to port the w/g primarily to eliminate creep. spike can be minimized with good tuning, although I would imagine that porting the w/g may help with spike as well. Also, you can use the pfc to control boost. I have 2 friends who have used just the pfc for boost control, and one of them is making ~375 rwhp with the old style BNR 3s (sequentially, I might add, and minimal spike at transition) and no boost controller aside from the pfc.
Porting the w/g now prolly is a good idea in order to prepare for a mp down the road. Be careful not to open it up too much, as if you remove too much material this can lead to cracking down the road.
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 12-20-04 at 06:34 PM.
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12-20-04, 11:21 PM
#8
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
You're 0 for 2, Ramy
The w/g is the frontmost accuated door, go to the top actuator and follow the arm back. You want to port the w/g primarily to eliminate creep. spike can be minimized with good tuning, although I would imagine that porting the w/g may help with spike as well. Also, you can use the pfc to control boost. I have 2 friends who have used just the pfc for boost control, and one of them is making ~375 rwhp with the old style BNR 3s (sequentially, I might add, and minimal spike at transition) and no boost controller aside from the pfc.
12-21-04, 08:03 AM
#9
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Originally Posted by FDNewbie
LOL thanks Rich...way to call me out haha
Ok so maybe I confused it helping creep vs. spike. My bad. BUT, several people have said that when it comes to absolute accuracy necessary to prevent detonation, the PFC's boost controlling capabilities are simply inadequate. Sure, some ppl do things that aren't absolutely necessary, but I'd venture to say that the majority of people w/ PFCs get Profec B's and other boost controllers for a very good reason - they're actually necessary. Besides, isn't that the least you can do to protect your engine/investement?
Rich
12-21-04, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
You're 0 for 2, Ramy
The w/g is the frontmost accuated door, go to the top actuator and follow the arm back. You want to port the w/g primarily to eliminate creep. spike can be minimized with good tuning, although I would imagine that porting the w/g may help with spike as well. Also, you can use the pfc to control boost. I have 2 friends who have used just the pfc for boost control, and one of them is making ~375 rwhp with the old style BNR 3s (sequentially, I might add, and minimal spike at transition) and no boost controller aside from the pfc.
Porting the w/g now prolly is a good idea in order to prepare for a mp down the road. Be careful not to open it up too much, as if you remove too much material this can lead to cracking down the road.
The w/g is the frontmost accuated door, go to the top actuator and follow the arm back. You want to port the w/g primarily to eliminate creep. spike can be minimized with good tuning, although I would imagine that porting the w/g may help with spike as well. Also, you can use the pfc to control boost. I have 2 friends who have used just the pfc for boost control, and one of them is making ~375 rwhp with the old style BNR 3s (sequentially, I might add, and minimal spike at transition) and no boost controller aside from the pfc.
Porting the w/g now prolly is a good idea in order to prepare for a mp down the road. Be careful not to open it up too much, as if you remove too much material this can lead to cracking down the road.
Ok, just to confirm with everybody. The w/g to port is located at the top of the turbos, not the one close to the exhaust manifold, right ?
Then, my car will be safe even if i install a m/p over the d/p, c/b, & intake. Sure, if i want more boost & bigger injectors the PFC would be a must.
12-21-04, 10:16 AM
#11
Damn, man, don't take a grinder to you car if you haven't done the research to know for sure what you're doing. By my definition, there are 3 doors near the exhaust manifold - one of which is in the manifold itself.
http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...rolDiagram.htm
Shows the wastegate location. It's not on top of the turbos at all - it's one most toward the front of the car, and you have to disassemble the two halves of the turbo assembly to get to it.
Dave
http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...rolDiagram.htm
Shows the wastegate location. It's not on top of the turbos at all - it's one most toward the front of the car, and you have to disassemble the two halves of the turbo assembly to get to it.
Dave
12-22-04, 11:59 AM
#12
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
It's all good. I knew you wouldnt take it in the wrong way, i think all of us learn something on this forum most days.
Sure, I'd be inclined to agree with you. But keep in mind that a boost controller can be used to minimize spike, but won't do jack to help with creep.
Rich
Rich
12-23-04, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
Damn, man, don't take a grinder to you car if you haven't done the research to know for sure what you're doing. By my definition, there are 3 doors near the exhaust manifold - one of which is in the manifold itself.
http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...rolDiagram.htm
Shows the wastegate location. It's not on top of the turbos at all - it's one most toward the front of the car, and you have to disassemble the two halves of the turbo assembly to get to it.
Dave
http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...rolDiagram.htm
Shows the wastegate location. It's not on top of the turbos at all - it's one most toward the front of the car, and you have to disassemble the two halves of the turbo assembly to get to it.
Dave
Well, thanks for the link! this is what i needed.
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