Bodyshield

I am purchasing a FD with a rebuild under 3k from pineappleracing.com , has anyone heard about ther rebuilds from these guys, and how is the warranty process if i have to go through it?

I live in texas so cooling is def a problem, i plan on getting gauges to keep me informed but what are some "not so" expensive mods to do to help w/ cooling. I know not to go half *** w/ these beauties....

I have a FC and i pulled the engine and tranny (13b NA 5 SPD)from it to do a swap (not a v8, dont flame on this thread please stick to point), and i know in the FDs it is a 13B-REW (Rotary Engine Twin Turbo) i know what it stands for but for some reason if the engine blows in the future can i somehow put the NA in it temporaily (will the FD tranny hook up the FC 13b) while the rebuild is being done?

I plan on making this my DD, cause a tahoe is even worse, any "prep" work need to be done/approve the DD ability of it?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Forget about warranties on these engines. A warranty is only going to cover if the engine failure/problem is a result from a rebuild error of the engine itselt. If whoever installed the engine caused the problem (or the driver afterwards), the warranty isn't going to help.

Look up "radiator ducting" here in this section.

The FC motor mounts are different. Not just a drop in swap (or you would see more FC guys dropping in a 13B-REW).

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/fd-daily-driver-416578/

TwinTriangles

You will probably only hear good reviews about pineapple, they are good people and know their stuff. Things to look at would be an aluminum AST, do the "fan mod", maybe get a koyo or fluidyne radiator and you'll be set. Oh, get a boost gauge too if you don't already have one.

Bodyshield

also one more thing, i know the car gets its heating problems for the turbo's, if i get a MBC (probably electronic tho) and lower the PSI, since its DD and not really raced, will that help prolong the engine and help w/ the cooling problem?

TwinTriangles

I dont see any reason to do that...
What mods does it currently have ?

Bodyshield

its just a stock rebuilt 13b-rew, but reason why i ask is because of reliability, thats all, if like putting it down 2 psi makes a notable difference, im willing to make the sacrifice and if i ever want to have some fun here and there then just put it up to stock. I noticed nobody has said anything about a turbo timer (w/ alarm or something), i guess its implied that everyone sits and waits with their car to cool down?

kuroi FD

i think turbo timers are kinda retarded, if you have the need to get on your car right before your gonna park i think thats stupid. I have one and dont use it, i just dont get on my car for like 1-2 miles before im gonna park, and also if you dont turn your fans on its actually heating up your engine before you turn it off.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Skip the turbo timer. Install a downpipe. Add a water temp gauge and boost gauge, so that you can stay outta boost until the engine block temp is at 180F for a little bit before boosting it. Change the fuel filter and all coolant hoses. Look into an aftermarket AST or AST elimination, and consider an all-aluminum radiator that can't crack.

Dave

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The lowest you can run (without having a problem with the turbo system) is 7 PSI which is the lowest setting for the stock wastegate spring. Yes, running lower boost will create less heat and also help with more longevtivity of the turbos. However, a difference from the stock 10 PSI to the lowest 7 PSI probably isn't going to make enough of a difference to matter as far as increasing longevity.

CantGoStraight

You don't need a MBC to lower the boost level. Just remove the pills from the precontrol and wastegate hoses and your boost will be as low as it can go. You need a minimum of 7psi for the secondary to work properly any way so perhaps the MBC will allow you to dial in what you like.

akiratdk

You can also use some fuel lubricant like MMO or stuff from Motec or something like that... It says it helps the longevity of the motor~~~ I use it and sometimes I do think it works... but it maybe mental.....

Bodyshield

main reason on the turbo timer is because of this texas heat.....and are you saying its good to turn the fan (not AC right) on a couple of miles before i stop? just to kick them on to cool the car? whats AST? i planned on putting either a koyo or a PWR, PWR is a australian company who makes really good aluminum radiators and plus i get a good hook up on them.....another reason for the turbo timer is because its just a simple add-in to the alarm

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Skip the turbo timer, these turbos are water cooled. The PWR is a good rad, but many here don't use it because the price is higher than the comparable Koyo. If you can get a good price by all means do so.

Dave

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Change out the FD thermoswitch for one from a later model FC. This will lower the threshold temperature for turning on the radiator fans. Simple, effective and inexpensive (IIRC ~$45)

FDNewbie

iTrader: (10)

Listen to DaveHe knows what he's talking about. Turbo timers are nothing more than a "watch me I'm cool!" mod

CantGoStraight

You can get a TT if you want to, I don't know about the "cool" factor but I've found the electrical system on these cars to be quite important. Since I didn't purchase a PFC to run my car I found I wanted a voltmeter to monitor the system voltage (especially since I'm under driving the alternator). Seeing as everybody is recomending against the TT's they are really cheap and available on this forum and even cheaper than a standalone volt meter. I use mine run the fans after shut down and to monitor the voltage, so to each his own. I have the Apexi with the FD specific harness and it is mounted right in front of my column mounted boost gauge, it blocks nothing and serves my pourpose. So thanks for the cheap volt meter all you guys that recomended against installing. :-P

Lukan

I also have a quick question:
What RPM does the 3rd gen do when cruising at 100 km/h (62.5 mph). I didnt take great notice but I think it was close to 2,400, which is a lot more than my bmw (around 1700rpm). Is this right and is it ok to drive it like this for long trips? [2 hours]

CantGoStraight

Sounds about right. 80 mph is right at 3k on my car and it'll do that all day long. If you want it to match your BM'er then put an auto rearend in it.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

These cars aren't made of glass. You can drive at 100mph for two hours and it won't hurt the car.


[edit: When driving a car in real life, always use your turn signal, wear your seatbelt and be a safe driver!]

-s-

Bodyshield

one more question, i searched and have no idea, its probably something i know just not the abbreviations for, but what is AST?

CantGoStraight

AST=AIR SEPERATION TANK

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

If you haven't found the FAQ by now, you need to read it. Check at the very end.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/

Dave

PS: FAQ stands for Frequently Asked Questions . Yes I'm a smartass sometimes.