SPICcnmGT

Does the Turbo Control Solenoid only work when the car is warm?? the one that activates the pressure on the turbo control actuator(the one on the bottom).

My actuator doesn't move with the KOKO test, but does move 10psi of pressure hooked up. Also if I put the pressure through the solenoid like it is coming from the pressure tank, no air comes out the other pipe, at least when the car is cold. I also unhooked it and hooked another solenoid up to see if it opened and it didn't.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

IME, it opens regardless of the engine temperature. It sounds like you have a lazy solenoid. Try the test again, but with less pressure on the tank side. You will probably find there is a temp where the solenoid will move. When the solenoid is hot, it will tend to perform better - and release with a higher applied pressure. A very good solenoid will move with as much as 15psi in the tank. So your description matches this scenario.

But it brings up another question: how much boost were you able to get to charge the pressure chamber? If you couldn't get a few psi at least, make sure your double throttle isn't the reason. The test says to get the engine fully hot and pull the dt line from the dt actuator, so if you did that it should rule out that possibility.

Dave

SPICcnmGT

Thanks for the info, but I don't have my DT hooked up I have all my emissions removed, but maybe it is the solenoid. I'm just trying now to figure out why my transition is acting funny. As for as pressure in the chamber it seems to hold it pretty well, it still had some pressure in it yesterday and I haven't driven the car for at least 24hrs.

I actually hooked up my air compressor to the line that comes from the pressure chamber, its set for around 10psi, I checked it with my boost gauge. I also took another solenoid I had removed from the seq. simplification and hooked it up and it didn't seem to open either, makes me think something else is wrong, but I'll try again tonight when I get home, I was rushed when I tried yesterday so hopefully I'll have more time today.

Also it is the brown connecter on the rack correct, at least that is what the vac. diagram says?? I want to make sure I didn't hook up the wrong one on accident when I was messing with other stuff.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I can't check offhand if it's the brown connector, but the wires in it should black/white stripe (ground) and yellow/blue stripe (power). Keep in mind that yellow and blue can fade quite a bit. If the solenoid cycles when the engine is hot but not cold, then you have it hooked up correctly.

It's entirely possible that you tested two bad solenoids. As they get older I suspect the spring weakens, or they get slightly gunked up with dust or something. The worse they get, the less tank pressure it takes to make them stick. It may require a brand new solenoid to work with 10+psi of tank pressure.

I think this solenoid is the right place to be looking for your transition issue, ala Dave Disney's troubleshooting.

SPICcnmGT

Ok I'll check the wires when I get home. I've also been reading where the PFC may not cycle all the solenoids with just the ignition on, so I guess I'm going to need to hook some power up to it somehow and check it.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I would just hook my boost gauge up to the pressure side of the actuator (use a tee fitting and insert where the line meets the 'tree' of the solenoid rack). Then take it for a test drive. It should show full pressure at exactly 4500rpm. When you let off it should also let off to 0psi immediately. Then repeat for the vacuum side, looking for full vacuum.

If you see either one getting lazy you know that solenoid is going bad.

Dave

SPICcnmGT

Here is what I think I've figured out. Everything IS hooked up right. Also it seems as though at 13 psi compared to 10psi, my boost doesn't seem to fluctuate, or at least not as often. So I'm thinking either
a)the Profec Solenoid is bad,
b)on the low setting something is causing it to act funny,
c) the solenoid for the pressure side of the TCA is bad,
d)the wastegate actuator is sticking some, it didn't appear to move like I thought it should when I had pressure hooked to it

So which would be the most likely culprit of transition problems?? I say c.d.a.b., in that order??

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Wait, you're saying running 13psi results in a better transition than 10psi?

That suggests to me something is up with the precontrol or wastegate or Profec.

If it's the other way around, then I would suspect c).

As well, you might want to put your boost gauge on the pressure chamber for a test drive, and figure out exactly what pressure is being applied to the solenoid. Running 13psi might show that as much as 15psi gets stored in the pressure chamber, and that is enough to make even a brand new tc solenoid stick. (This doesn't normally happen when running the stock 10psi). To solve that problem, you'll need to install a mini pressure regulator adjacent to the pressure chamber and adjust it to 10psi to ease the load on the tc solenoid.

SPICcnmGT

Yeah the more I think about it, I think it may be the BC solenoid/conroller, especially since 10psi is on the low setting and 13 is on the high. I may try to borrow one from somone else and hook it up and see what happens. Hopefully this weekend I'll get to spend some more time with it.

Basically you are saying if I end up running say 18psi I'm going to have to install a press. reg. between the solenoid and Press. chamb, if I don't already.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

18psi in sequential, definitely need a pressure reg.