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Should I buy this FD for street/track use?

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Old 08-11-13, 07:29 AM
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Should I buy this FD for street/track use?

Hello,

I have always wanted an Fd, they are my favorite tuners car! i used to own a fc and a s15, I currently own a r32 gtr but have come to the realisation that it is going to cost far more then first expected to get it to a level for the application i want to use it for.

I want to buy a rear wheel drive car that I can drive on the streets but mainly to compete in some low level time attack events and build my skill level up, I was heading towards an s15 due to many obvious reasons but I found this FD that I would consider well modified for what I want to do, I would like some of your opinions on what you think and what areas it lacks.

Here is a description provided by the owner,

1994 series 6 rx7 fd

This RX7 has been a Fast fours & rotaries cover car twice & featured 3 times. Also has been featured in Ignition DVD edition 24. The car has been built for street/ circuit. 18x9.5 Enkei NTO3's all round with Hankook DOT approved slicks, AP pro 5000 6 pot front brakes & Project Mu larger rear discs & pads, Feed spec HKS coil overs, Braided brake lines with brake bias in the engine bay. Engine is built by Gt auto garage in QLD with Xtreme rotaries extend port, lightened 3mm rotors, RX8 crank, stud kit, 3mm NRS ceramic apex seals, 4 barrel throttle body with custom alloy intercooler piping & intercooler, custom exhaust manifold to a Garrett TO4Z & HKS 60mm w/gate into a 3.5 inch system to the HKS silent high power rear section. Motec M600, HKS EVC boost controller, Racepack dash (Haltech) with GPS speed & track data logger, oil pressure & temp, limits & gear can be displayed on the dash. Bride Ergo 2 red leather seats. OS Giken super single clutch & close ratio gear set with a Night Sports 4.77 diff with 2 way LSD. Body mods are the Mazdaspeed GTC front bar with alloy ducting to all coolers, Feed Carbon side skirts & wide front fenders. Carbon Ganador mirrors, RE Amemiya 3D GT wing & Carbon rear diffuser. Power output is 330KW atw on pulp at 17psi. Very quick car, a lot of time & money spent, regretful sale due to other commitments.

After chatting to him, i also found out it has a series of bosch fuel pumps linked to a surge tank, setup for 85, rotors have been machined as seen in pics
all the bushings have been replaced underneath and a few other small things


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Old 08-11-13, 09:14 AM
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Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary

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Car seems sorted for your needs. If the price is right, and it drives as it should, then I would go for it.
Old 08-11-13, 09:22 AM
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Looks clean, and seems to be very well put together, I would go for it if the engine is healthy and the price is right.
Old 08-11-13, 10:03 AM
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I have never seen that lower intake manifold or t-body/injector set up before. It looks pretty extreme and I'm not sure why any of that is necessary for a car only making 330KW. Like any boosted rotary, it would be in your best interest to get a compression check done before buying. FDs have airflow problems to begin with, and with that gianormous FMIC, the radiator is not going to be getting much cold air especially if it's not well ducted. Make sure the oil coolers are up to the task too as they'll be doing 50% of the work.
Old 08-11-13, 11:37 AM
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^ That intake manifold is generally used for drag racing, not time attack.
Old 08-11-13, 01:38 PM
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I agree I'm not a fan of the radiator location for time attacks .. I have a front mount and my car doesnt like it very much when I abuse it for to long.
Old 08-11-13, 06:30 PM
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yeah If I was to purchase it, I would get a v mount setup, change the suspension to bilsteins, and mostly likely change the intake manifold back for road registering,

another question, would the machined rotors give a lower compression reading????
Old 08-11-13, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by ArmitageGVR4
I have never seen that lower intake manifold or t-body/injector set up before. It looks pretty extreme and I'm not sure why any of that is necessary for a car only making 330KW. Like any boosted rotary, it would be in your best interest to get a compression check done before buying. FDs have airflow problems to begin with, and with that gianormous FMIC, the radiator is not going to be getting much cold air especially if it's not well ducted. Make sure the oil coolers are up to the task too as they'll be doing 50% of the work.
it used to run e85 with a bridge port and have 650hp, there is a dyno on youtube
Old 08-11-13, 07:01 PM
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It will lower the compression if the machining shaved off some material.
Old 08-11-13, 07:45 PM
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those look like turbo II rotors which I think have lower compression from the get go.
Old 08-11-13, 09:28 PM
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I'd be a bit hesitant about that car, particularly because of the engine. I've seen it listed before in the Aussie car classifieds.

That injection is based on the old Holley 4-barrel carburetor flange design, with the throttlebody injection thing going on. There's no need for it to be like that unless you want to go drag racing. Its not an ideal setup for street or driveability, and the combination of that turbo and that throttlebody injection is not going to give good response for out-of-corners auto-X work. I know because I run a similar setup ("F.A.S.T. EFI") which is throttlebody injected, built to slip onto a Holley 4-BBL manifold pattern like that, on my Chrysler. It is okay but I would not consider it ideal for an FD.

The way our Aussie prices are going for the FD's here locally, that car (I'm going to estimate based on others for sale in Australia right now) would be costing you between $25,000.00 to $38,000.00 Australian Dollars retail price to buy off the owner. (1 Aussie dollar = 0.92 USA Cents) At the end of the day its someone elses build and not tailored to what you want to do with it, exactly.
My 92 is insured for $25,000.00 AUD ($23,018.50 US Dollars) and thats a lot of money either here in Australia, or in the USA. Before you go ahead, think carefully about this
Old 08-11-13, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SA3R
I'd be a bit hesitant about that car, particularly because of the engine. I've seen it listed before in the Aussie car classifieds.

That injection is based on the old Holley 4-barrel carburetor flange design, with the throttlebody injection thing going on. There's no need for it to be like that unless you want to go drag racing. Its not an ideal setup for street or driveability, and the combination of that turbo and that throttlebody injection is not going to give good response for out-of-corners auto-X work. I know because I run a similar setup ("F.A.S.T. EFI") which is throttlebody injected, built to slip onto a Holley 4-BBL manifold pattern like that, on my Chrysler. It is okay but I would not consider it ideal for an FD.

The way our Aussie prices are going for the FD's here locally, that car (I'm going to estimate based on others for sale in Australia right now) would be costing you between $25,000.00 to $38,000.00 Australian Dollars retail price to buy off the owner. (1 Aussie dollar = 0.92 USA Cents) At the end of the day its someone elses build and not tailored to what you want to do with it, exactly.
My 92 is insured for $25,000.00 AUD ($23,018.50 US Dollars) and thats a lot of money either here in Australia, or in the USA. Before you go ahead, think carefully about this
I live in Australia aswell, the cars for sale in QLD, I would sell the 4 barrel setup and put the stock manifold back on, I would also most likely move to twin turbos, what has drawn me to the car is the brakes, diff, os giken gear box, the ecu which would have cost in excess of 15k, then take in the cost of his motor build, and it seems like a good deal, for me to buy an fd for lets say 22k and do this work I would be looking at a total cost far more then 50k.
Old 08-11-13, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by are-ex
I live in Australia aswell, the cars for sale in QLD, I would sell the 4 barrel setup and put the stock manifold back on, I would also most likely move to twin turbos, what has drawn me to the car is the brakes, diff, os giken gear box, the ecu which would have cost in excess of 15k, then take in the cost of his motor build, and it seems like a good deal, for me to buy an fd for lets say 22k and do this work I would be looking at a total cost far more then 50k.

for the track , a turbo that fits your power goals is all you need , dont need to go twins . you wont really gain much form doing that , just get a turbo that will fit your power goals and be set , twins produce alot of heat and you would need to focus alot on cooling. plus you wont gain much since at the track you will more then likely always be above 4k rpms
Old 08-16-13, 09:33 PM
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Brewster
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Originally Posted by SA3R
I'd be a bit hesitant about that car, particularly because of the engine. I've seen it listed before in the Aussie car classifieds.

[/B]
What do you think is wrong with the engine
Old 08-19-13, 05:26 PM
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I think you'll have issues with rego in NSW when the time comes. If you're a young bloke, I'm sure it would garner unwanted blue and white attention too....hopefully no EPA around!
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