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hi, I don't know much about this area so I wanted to ask again .
I'm going to be at a big event soon and want my RX7FD to shoot flames and misfire more.
I read that you shouldn't just install a straight pipe on the series twin turbos. It does shoot when I'm on the limiter, as well as when I'm just driving, but logically there aren't any flames (because of the cat).
Is it enough if I simply replace the cat with a midpipe?
BR, yannis
Just a heads up before you for you go that route. Do you have a stand alone ecu? If you do you can do it but I have heard of people damaging rotors and turbos by doing, what they call two step. Your car, your choice.
I'm going to be at a big event soon and want my RX7FD to shoot flames and misfire more.
An an FYi-, wanting to shoot flames/popping just for the sake of it has never been well received around here. I think most of us would agree that shooting flames is only cool when it's an unintended byproduct of performance.
In any case, I'll try to answer your questions.
Originally Posted by rotary.yannis
I read that you shouldn't just install a straight pipe on the series twin turbos.
That is correct. See unlike piston engines, a rotary will blow their apex seals quite easily in a lean condition. So when it comes to turbo rotaries, the name of the game is proper AFR's.
Originally Posted by rotary.yannis
Is it enough if I simply replace the cat with a midpipe?
BR, yannis
Yeah if you want to blow your engine.
People don't just slap on a straight pipe because they tend to make AFR's lean by having the car experience:
Elevated boost
Boost spikes
Boost creep
In other words, if you want to have one installed you have to have other mods in place to make sure your AFRs are safe.
To be honest a straight pipe should be at the tail end of all other bolt-on mods. Meaning you have already installed a boost gauge, DP, IC intake, exhaust, boost controller, ported wastegate. Also many folks on here believe that you even have to have a tuned ECU in place too. I don't, I prescribe to the notion that as long as you are able to successfully maintain boost at or below stock levels then you are ok especially if you have installed a wideband AFR gauge (so you know for sure).
In a side note - A straight pipe vs ECU debate has been quite the hot topic in the past and if anything, it shows you that a slapping one on is not something that should be taken lightly.
An an FYi-, wanting to shoot flames/popping just for the sake of it has never been well received around here. I think most of us would agree that shooting flames is only cool when it's an unintended byproduct of performance.
In any case, I'll try to answer your questions.
That is correct. See unlike piston engines, a rotary will blow their apex seals quite easily in a lean condition. So when it comes to turbo rotaries, the name of the game is proper AFR's.
Yeah if you want to blow your engine.
People don't just slap on a straight pipe because they tend to make AFR's lean by having the car experience:
Elevated boost
Boost spikes
Boost creep
In other words, if you want to have one installed you have to have other mods in place to make sure your AFRs are safe.
To be honest a straight pipe should be at the tail end of all other bolt-on mods. Meaning you have already installed a boost gauge, DP, IC intake, exhaust, boost controller, ported wastegate. Also many folks on here believe that you even have to have a tuned ECU in place too. I don't, I prescribe to the notion that as long as you are able to successfully maintain boost at or below stock levels then you are ok especially if you have installed a wideband AFR gauge (so you know for sure).
In a side note - A straight pipe vs ECU debate has been quite the hot topic in the past and if anything, it shows you that a slapping one on is not something that should be taken lightly.
Despite the topic, thank you very much for your message!
yes, I've heard something like that before. apart from the shooting…
Since I shouldn't just remove the cat, this will probably mean there won’t be a lot of options for flames?
Since I shouldn't just remove the cat, this will probably mean there won’t be a lot of options for flames?
That's correct.
BTW- Unlike a BMW/Audi if I saw an Rx-7 pull up to a meet and it's popping and spitting out flames all over the place, my first impression is that car is all kinds of fucked up. Because these cars don't do that unless there is some WOT shenanigans going on.
PS. Regarding BMWs/Audis and their popping noises- Having a burble tune is just as weak as having engine noises come through the speakers. IMO of course
Or you can just go with some neon underbody lights. Maybe a bolt-on rear bench spoiler. You don’t need a standalone for those and it’ll take twice as long to turn your car into a parts donor
Poor kid getting flamed up. Lol. I was 23 years old back in 1998 when I bought my FD. One divorce later and I still own it and love driving it. I am with you guys also I am always keeping my car light and performance oriented. I am not into big bling wheels or mods just for attention but he is young and that is what he enjoys. I find it super cool that you guys would give him all the facts, although my views are very similar to you all.
Alright, thank u all for the infos. I’m way smarter now
So let’s ignore my point with the „bmw tuning“… because of the fact, that i’m still only 18 and probably only know 10% of what u need to know of rotary engines…, are there any mods u would recommend (excluding bags) for the fd that will „pimp it up“ a bit and still make it great for show n‘ shine and a normal streetcar?
This is what happens when ridiculous franchises such as F&F continue to be made.
Remember the shows like “pimp my ride”? What a way to ruin actual car culture.
Things were much better back in the day. Before the internet truly got off the ground. When message systems and forums were the only way..
Shooting Flames with Backfires
.
. apart from the shooting…
