I'm considering one of these to replace vs. prune my old harness for single turbo install, but I've seen some suggestion that it isn't complete with all connectors. IAC/ISC (which I believe are the same thing?) in particular, but since I don't know what every plug is, I'm not confident in being able to assess if it's everything I need/want. Ideally, the harness would have a plug for everything, and I could just hook 'em up and know I'm "done" that way.

Mil-spec Tucked 13B Harness (FD3S/Rx7)

There's a list of what it covers, but that doesn't seem like "it"... oil temp sensor, maybe anything else? Any help on what a "complete" list (minus turbo control and emissions solonoids) would look like? And what about the break in the firewall? Would I need to retrofit the big factory rubber donut, or would a bulkhead connector be the ticket.

Please advise, thank you!

P

 

Here's pic of the stock harness connections, thanks to "Sgtblue:"

http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...ireharness.jpg

 

Thank you, that's extremely helpful.

 

I have a single turbo and rywire harness. I also tuned my car and other stock and single turbo cars here in colorado springs.

I suggest getting the harness with what it has and also getting the IAC (idle air control) which is located by the throttle body (one next to the TPS sensor).

While many have deleted this item, I think its better to keep it on a street car. The idle air control let's in air during start up and idling. It provides a faster more crisp start up without having to blip the throttle. It also affords itself to a much more robust idle and easier catching of the idle. It basically makes tuning the idle a bunch easier. I believe it makes the car more streetable and overall a better quality car due to starting a little easier.

That is my .02.

 

Upon further review, it appears that the IAC is the only thing missing, but I'm planning to review it with the plug by plug, at that and anything else needed, and see if they can't also add a boost control plug for the 8374—I can try to run it right off the PFC, and if not, use a Profec B. It's worth having the plug to try it.

Thanks all

 

So after a conversation with Rywire, it appears that the missing connectors would be the IAC, and the coolant level sensor (coolant temp sender for guages, and two connecters to T-stat housing for fan control are there.).

The indicated that wiring can't be added, but that the two extra wires it comes with could be utilized to connect to the IAC, if I put the connector on myself.

Question 1: Does it seem feasible that if you just connect the IAC to the extra wires, that the ECU is going to see it and recognize it as the IAC and run it correctly?

Question 2. I'm not terribly upset about losing the coolant level sensor, but it is a safeguard from catastrophic coolant loss. Thoughts on the value of this?

 

The "extra wires" they are talking about adding are most likely not connected to anything on the engine side or the ecu side. You would need to add connector pins to the wires and slot them Into the right places on the ecu connector. And then wire the IAC valve to the wires on the engine side of the harness. And I would find a way to keep the coolant level sensor if it was my car.

 

I would have thought they would have been more helpful/willing to add things to the harness, but they did not seem interested in that at all. Also, I don't see it anywhere on the harness image, but shouldn't there be a plug for the oil pressure sending unit? Or is that on a different harness?

 

Oil pressure sender is on the "charging harness"

 

If you or someone else finds the harness terminals somewhere let me know. I want to add back my IAC. I have the extra wires there to hook it up.

I know where they go in the mating plug harness, 1 active signal and 1 ground wire for it. I just need the damn terminals. not sure where to buy them. I have my IAC mating plug from my old harness.

 

This harness has always felt overpriced. I contract out to various folks creating custom harnesses for anything from race cars with rotaries to older 'restomodded' muscle cars. I charge only about 20% more for one-offs.

Edit: I didn't mean to cap on Rywire's product, he makes a very nice piece of hardware.

 

Well, I don't know why i'd pay 20% more for a "custom" harness that would essentially be exactly the same. The advantages as I see them are:

1. MUCH cheaper than the $850 OEM harness that I'd prune anyway
2. Pruning either the new or my current OEM is a $time-consuming pain in the ***, plus I can sell my OEM for a few bucks
3. It's available quickly, as they are almost pre-made.

I talked to Rywire again, and they confirmed that they can pre-install the two extra wires in the IAC terminals at the ECU plug, so I just need to add the pigtail for the IAC itself, and that it has a boost control plug pre-installed, so I think I'm good. I can live without the coolant level sensor. If you were really concerned, it wouldn't be that difficult to rig up a separate warning light for it.

 

I think the coolant level sensor is on the other harness. I have a rywire and my coolant level sensor still comes on if it is low. In fact I accidently broke that wire and rewired it, it's on the other harness.

 

So is this mislabelled?


http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...ireharness.jpg

 

i have a rywire engine and chassis harness for my FD with LSx swap, i'm amazed by the quality once it was in my hands, everything was labeled and the wire lengths are spot on. highly recommend it for any application. they are extremely helpful if you catch them at the right time, but like any other shop, they're tied up with in shop projects and might not have all the time in the world to chit chat.

 

I'm not asking you to spend 20% more. I'm merely stating that most of the cost of a harness is the design and setup for manufacturing time and that I feel like RyWire harnesses are overpriced for a standard, non-bespoke piece. I'm also not trying to sell harnesses, just qualifying my opinion with the fact that I DO create one-off harnesses very similar to these for anything from street cars to SCCA and NASA race vehicles.

-David Guy

 

Does this help, especially post 49

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...part-s-984160/

 

I know where the wires go, what I am missing is the little metal terminals at the end of the wire to slip into the ecu wiring harness.

This is simply an example of what I am looking for but these aren't the terminals.

http://i.stack.imgur.com/150Ri.jpg

I need to find the terminal ends in order to install it in the ecu harness which plugs into the ecu.

If I have that I can solder the IAC mating plug to the existing wires in the harness.

 

Goddamnit. So I order the thing, and now it looks like I need the purge control (which it doesn't have)... does anyone know how to plumb that without it? Can I just run the line (with check valve) right from the little canister under the throttle body, right to the UIM? Any ill effects? This **** really pissed me off. Build a whole ******* harness and you can't include two necessary plugs?

P

 

An expensive option would be to use the Banzai patch harness, cut that and connect new wire to the needed connectors that aren't included in the Rywire loom

Patch Harness (93-95 RX-7)

 

If I read the function of that solonoid correctly, all it does is close the circuit so that fuel vapor won't get into your manifold when the car is shut down, and cause backfiring on startup (they can't vent the tank to atmosphere anymore). I would assume, then, that without power the solonoid is closed, and with power it's open.

Seems like you could wire it to any 12v source that only gets power with the ignition on, and it would work the same way. Not sure why it would really need to run through the ECU.

 

I had previously bought 2 Rywire harness and had them add additional wiring and connectors.

My next harness will be build by Chris Ludwig, he can pretty much make anything.

 

^ +1 for Ludwig.
Great product and exceptional customer service.

 

That's irritating since Rywire said they couldn't add any wires, and didn't have any additional connectors, so all they could do was install the two extra wires that are included to the ECU terminals for the IAC.

 

The IAC/BAC connector is not available new. Rywire probably had some at one point and used them. I have them from time to time and will sell them when I do. Most of the time I'll crimp the terminals and seals on to the harness and let the customer install the old connector housing from their harness.

If you absolutely can't find a connector, we pot the valve and run a pigtail off of it to a generic 2P connector, usually a Deutsch DTM.