I don't like super much about cars but i was always interested in the rx7. I was wondering if a 1994 rx7 with 103,000 miles on it for $5000 is worth it? My friend told me to rebuild the engine but would that still be sufficient enough for it to last for a few years? Does anybody know what else I would mostly likely have to replace and how much the total of everything would cost? Or should i just get a totally different car?f

 

 

Read the newbie links at the top of this page, to get an idea of what 3rd gens are all about.

Otherwise, the correct answer to you question is yes, no and maybe.

 

boi918:

I'm one of the nicer fellows around here, because I remember I was once a newb. But really, if you have to ask, you aren't ready to buy a car like this. They are time bombs waiting to destroy your bank account if you don't do the research.

I really suggest reading the stickies for newbs at the top of this forum as a starting place. Then come back and ask some more questions.

I will, in the meanwhile, answer your questions directly.
It's my opinion, of course. A $5,000 RX-7 is in fact worth it if you are committed to making it work and have the money. Even if you were to park it, study the issues involved for six months, you could always get the $5,000 back if you decided against pursuing this project. An engine rebuild, if it needs it, is about $4,500 - $5,000 installed. If the turbos are blown, it wil cost you $1,000 - $5,000 depending on how you approach it. Body work, like new paint will set you back about $4,500. A new transmission installed, maybe $2,000 - $3,000. What sort of condition is the rest of the car? Sounds like buying some else's good condition car is cheaper. You can buy a nice, pampered 3G RX-7s with 50,000 miles for about $16,000. A much better route for a newb, if you value my opinion. Then again, if you aren't into working on cars and just want to have fun, buy a new (or one year old) Dodge SRT or Mitsubishi Lancer. It will be much cheaper and more reliable in the long run.

 

thanks mazda for the reply.
i plan on calling the guy soon. Are there any specific questions i should ask him? Thanks

 

At $5000, it sounds like a project car. And as you said yourself, you're not very knowledgable in this area. This will be an expensive process to get into great running order if it is as it sounds like it is. If I were in your position, I'd pick something else.

Read this over https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...threadid=68640 .

 

Yea...are any drivetrain parts included? Cuz I'm super skeptical that it has a running engine, working turbos, good tranny, etc @ 5 grand. Like mazda told you, good 7s run around $16K nowadays.

If you are going to check out the car yourself, make sure you read this site. It's a goldmine...

http://rx7.voodoobox.net/infofaq/bguide3g/bguide3g.html

 

Here is a post I gave to another newb. Please, please pay attention:

1. Don't get too enamoured with anyone car. Look at several and try to decide what is important to you.
Issues like, interior and exterior are critical. They are more expensive to fix than most mechanical systems.

2. Do a CARFAX search. There are some real horror stories behind really nice looking cars.

3. Low miles aren't everything.

4. Most of these cars have been raced. Stay away from racers, if at all possible. There are a lot of parts that wear out that you can't see in race cars. Things like motor mounts, wheel bearings, burned out engine solenoids, differential, can add up really fast.

5. These engines on the whole blow up after 60,000 miles. I would negotiate a high asking price down to cover partial engine replacement costs - appears you've done that.

6. Turbos can be checked out with 10-8-10 boost pattern by driving car wide open throttle in third gear. If you can't verify this pattern, turbo rebuilds can get expensive if you're not mechanically inclined. Also, look for oil leakage around the ends of the turbine shafts, externally. Cracked exhaust and intakes to and from turbo can also be indicative of overall condition.

7. Engine seals can be verified by checking if there are bubbles in the radiator with the engine running. Remove the cap, look inside, when the car isn't hot - obviously. Do a search for "champaign test".

8. If the car's transmission grinds in 5th gear, you are looking at a new 5th gear syncro. Not horribly expensive, but look out if it grinds in 2-3 shifts. $$$$$$.

9. Engine seal integrity can only be checked by having a mechanic check compression. I have read you want close to equal numbers above 85 on all chambers. I would opt for 90 myself, but it looks like you are prepared for a new engine. But lookout for the condition of the radiator, intake and exhaust pipes as well as the engine harness. Those can add up. Brittle vacuum tubing can be a nightmare to replace and costly, unless you are the patient type and willing to do it yourself.

10. After you have driven it, and you still want it, insist it be inspected at one of the recognized shops that cater to these beasts. This should set you back about $175 if done right ... and if the seller will agree to it, assuming he has nothing to hide.

11. Don't disqualify a car for minor imperfections. Get an estimate for how much it will cost to fix. Negotiate the price down based on this.

12. Blue Book prices mean nothing. A perfect 93 or 94 is worth $15-17,000 or more. Mods should increase the value of the car by about 50 percent of the installed part's value - assuming you want it modded. There's nothing wrong with asking that the part be removed or taken back to stock, if the owner still has the stock parts. Respect an owner's desire to keep the modded car modded. There are a lot of stock cars out there, just take your time and look.

13. Don't finance the cost of the entire car. Assume something critical will break and have at least $3,000 in reserve to keep your car on the road.

14. Check out your insurance costs. If you have a good driving record and are over 30, you should be able to find really good coerage for around $400 every six months. If you are younger, look out.

15. If you can't live with the above 14 points, you aren't ready to own an FD.

Good luck.

 

For 5k WTF is wrong with it?

 

the guy said his engine runs perfect, has working turbo's and a good tranny. He topped it off by saying his care runs perfectly and he assures me

 

Bro, like ppl have said, the average price of a good FD is around $16,000. Lets say someone is in need of money BAD. They let it go cheap. That equates to about $12,000. MAYBE $10,000. You're talking about FIVE GRAND.

Five grand will get you a good parts car (ie NOT running). If I were you, I wouldn't give a two bit about what the guy says. Check out the car for yourself, and let the facts speak for themselves. The fact that the price is so low and the guy is claiming everything's fine makes me even MORE suspicious...

 

i buy it if 5000....

 

I'd look at that CARFAX real close.

 

Hmm , well if you really want the FD buy it for 5,000, but take the full loan amount the bank will give you, and that should be around 10,000 extra dollars depending on your credit, have a shop that in experienced with rotary engines do a full rebuild, and with the other 5,000 do a few reliabilty mods, such as upgrading the igniton system, with the jacob's electronic ignitor box, grab a boost gauge, down pipe, egt gauges, have the fuel injectors flushed out (cleaned), flush the coolant system, get a bigger radiator, and replace all the vacuum lines . The most important part is the cooling system if you let your engine over heat you are fucked basically.



then once its all done, get in it, drive around and watch people stare at you , in jealously, sometimes even just leave them thinking what kind of car is that, and smile and be happy.


you own a FD3s

 

That's a huge understatement. I'll tell you for a fact, I know MANY people who have owned cars w/ "clean" titles, no accident history, etc...but that's not really the case.

Carfax only generates reports that have been filed with insurance. So if you never claim your damage, and get it repaired say, at a shop you know, no paperwork involved, it'll never show up.

You have to go over the entire car. Check the frame all around. Make sure it's straight as an arrow. Open the doors and run your fingers around the edge of the fender. If it's stock, no damage, it'll be very smooth and rounded. Use the other side as a comparison. Check that all the angles meet at 90 degrees. It's VERY difficult to align body panels perfectly after an accident. If it's aligned very well on one end, it'll prob be slightly off on the other, etc. You get my point. There are definetly ways to make sure the car wasn't a total loss w/ a great makeup job on it...you just have to know what to look for.

 

Relative to comments about the CARFAX, I'd be somewhat concerned about ownership history. If the car is good, and someone is selling it for $5,000, what does that tell you? You've got to resolve title issues before you can even begin looking at mechanicals. What if the car is hot? Flood damaged? ETC. Don't waste your time on cars with such basic issues because you will be pouring money down a sewer. It's just like the idiots who keep coming around here with RHD cars. I love their VINs: 000000000000000000.