Running car on jack stands
#1
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Running car on jack stands
I might get flamed for this... probably will, but my question is. Is it possible to run the car on jackstands? I'm slowly tracking down a boost problem and basically have to fiddle with stuff.. close it back up and find some nice long empty road and see if it work.. if not back to the garage to fiddle.. This is getting tiring and I'd hate to give up on the sequential system... I was wondering if I can just jack up the rear and run the car. I don't really want to spend money on dyno time just to fix a boost problem. so ... flame away..
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At my local shop...He charges 60 bucks for an hour of free run dyno time...That should be plenty of time to find a leak... And whats $60 bucks now days?
Just my .02 cents...
Just my .02 cents...
#7
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Yes, it's possible to run the car elevated, but leave it in neutral. The possibility of spinning the wheels unloaded and throwing a wheel weight is scary to me. Your car should be able to reach 3-4psi of boost in neutral (you gotta really peg it!).
It is possible to monitor every actuator in the turbo control system with only a tiny amount of 'work'. Just use a tee fitting, some spare hose, and long pliers to insert it. Find the most convenient piece of hose between the actuator and its solenoid, and insert the tee there. I can reach any of them by removing the intake pipe to the secondary or the pressure chamber. Then run the pressure hose into the car and to a separate gauge. (I got a spare gauge made by Wika from MSC Direct for $30 that is 1% accuracy, 4" dia, -30vac to 30psi, if you drain the glycerin from it the needle will move nice and quick).
I would run these tests:
1) Vacuum chamber
2) Pressure chamber
3) Charge Relief Solenoid
4) Charge Control Solenoid
5) Turbo Control Solenoid Vacuum
6) Turbo Control Solenoid Pressure
If you have any questions on what these test results should look like, or where to tee in, I'll try to help. I've been meaning to do a photo writeup on these details but haven't gotten round to it.
It is possible to monitor every actuator in the turbo control system with only a tiny amount of 'work'. Just use a tee fitting, some spare hose, and long pliers to insert it. Find the most convenient piece of hose between the actuator and its solenoid, and insert the tee there. I can reach any of them by removing the intake pipe to the secondary or the pressure chamber. Then run the pressure hose into the car and to a separate gauge. (I got a spare gauge made by Wika from MSC Direct for $30 that is 1% accuracy, 4" dia, -30vac to 30psi, if you drain the glycerin from it the needle will move nice and quick).
I would run these tests:
1) Vacuum chamber
2) Pressure chamber
3) Charge Relief Solenoid
4) Charge Control Solenoid
5) Turbo Control Solenoid Vacuum
6) Turbo Control Solenoid Pressure
If you have any questions on what these test results should look like, or where to tee in, I'll try to help. I've been meaning to do a photo writeup on these details but haven't gotten round to it.
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#8
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Originally Posted by xxxtodxxx
so you pay for something that is free?
Do pulls and get your hp/tq numbers
Or run 1/4 mile runs...All on the dyno...all for $60 bucks an hour...
#13
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I claim temporary insanity during the time i asked... yah this boost troulbe shooting is just pissing me off esp tuning time is on sat.. spent all week UIM on off on off on off.. but yah i don't plan on running the car on jack stands..
#15
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Originally Posted by ulost2my7
What do you mean? The car was driving in reverse just fine until cameron starting kicking the bumper which threw the car off the stands. lol