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Installing the RP idler pulley and when adding the bottom nut, I noticed there are very few treads able to catch there.
This seems to be an obvious thing that will happen because, while the nut is similar, the mounting bracket is far thicker than the two washers it's replacing.
Question for others - did you have the same issue? Did you just leave it on with the 2-3 treads that are peeking out / add some loctite for good measure?
I did try the "two nut" method for loosening the stud, but all that did was strip the nut (thankfully not the stud) so I am wondering if this stud is fixed.
Photo for reference. Sent off an email to RP as well, waiting on a reply.
It probably is supposed to be like that. On the pineapple kit, that whole stud is replaced with a super long bolt. Your idea to back the stud out some is correct.
Unfortunately if it's stuck and the double nut method didn't work, then you have to pull the water pump housing to do that. You can use a thinner, non flanged nut for better engagement. A thin washer underneath would be recommended.
As an alternative to pulling out the stud you could make a shoulder nut out of hex stock with the round portion larger than the thread so that the threads would go almost all the way through an enlarged hole in the bracket. Obviously this would need some machining, but that's what I'd do if I couldn't remove and replace the stud.
On the subject of stud removal, a bit of heat around it and hammering on the end of the stud to loosen it in its threads may ease its removal.
...On the subject of stud removal, a bit of heat around it and hammering on the end of the stud to loosen it in its threads may ease its removal.
Another much easier solution - use a countersink to taper the bracket hole, and then machine a matching taper on a nut to fit the recess. That will enable a few more threads to engage.
I don't have the tools to do machine work unfortunately.
The thin nut idea seems to be the winner here, although I don't feel like it engages much more than the flanged nut once the washer is on. Here's hoping it holds.
Feels like this bracket could've been designed a bit better around that nut mount. The supplied nut actually feels like it had better engagement, as bad as it was.
I don't have the tools to do machine work unfortunately.
The thin nut idea seems to be the winner here, although I don't feel like it engages much more than the flanged nut once the washer is on. Here's hoping it holds.
Feels like this bracket could've been designed a bit better around that nut mount. The supplied nut actually feels like it had better engagement, as bad as it was.
The flanged nut should have threads all the way through, so you won't gain anything but how it looks using a thinner nut.
Also, with the flanged nut, there is no need for a washer. That gives you 1 or 2 more threads engagement than a thin nut with a washer.
