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I've replaced the Y-pipe before, it's pretty easy. I'm pretty sure it comes off in one piece. The downpipe bolts are a little bit interesting to get to sometimes, but not bad. The hardest part in my opinion is to put all the vaccuum hoses back right. If you don't it will not run / run right. And what was wrong with the LIM gasket?
I've replaced the Y-pipe before, it's pretty easy. I'm pretty sure it comes off in one piece. The downpipe bolts are a little bit interesting to get to sometimes, but not bad. The hardest part in my opinion is to put all the vaccuum hoses back right. If you don't it will not run / run right. And what was wrong with the LIM gasket?
Still has the origional crappy cardboard LIM gasket, which has now blown out at the top right corner causing a leak and high idle...replacing it with the newer metal oem LIM gasket.
Ive been told I can only access the downpipe bolts from under the car, true??
And yeah I agree on vac hoses, busted a check valve taking off the plenum!!
have fun with the rats nets, or my personal favorite--reinstalling the oil return lines for the turbos. I helped a friend replace his OMP lines and if I could go back and do it again, I'd just pull the motor. You end up tearing the whole car apart.
Don't discourage the man, he's already taken the initiative to do his own work, the first step of being able to afford keeping an FD running for years...
Don't discourage the man, he's already taken the initiative to do his own work, the first step of being able to afford keeping an FD running for years...
Agreed. That's one hell of a task to do with the motor in the car. This is a man of patience.
I'm also in the middle of the LIM gasket replacement. Here are a couple notes:
1) the Y-pipe will come out as once piece, but you have to wrestle with it a bit. The middle coupling may be sticky which makes it a bit of a pain, but it will come out.
2) the downpipe/precat bolts will involve coming at them from underneith as well as from the top. Be very gentle with those studs, including the turbo mounts. PB Blaster is your friend here.
3) plan on replacing some of the hoses while you're in there. Definitely replace the turbo coolant hoses and all the oil line gaskets. For me some of the vac hoses were easier to cut off than try and remove in one piece.
4) take your time and label everything (masking tape and a sharpie). This will help you get it back together afterwards.
Good luck,
Look up how to pull the turbos and remove the UIM. Then remove the rats nest and the LIM is ready to roll.
I will search for the above...however I have already read up on removing the turbos...and was under the impression that whan the turbos are out and the uim removed and downpipe detatched, the lim would be ready to come out!
When you say removing the rats nest (which I thought was under the plenum) what are you refering to exactly??
Rats nest is the solenoid rack under the UIM. You don't need to remove it completely, but you'll need to unbolt it from the block so you and can move it out of the way. You'll need to undo the fuel system from the LIM (after you have the turbos out).
Rats nest is the solenoid rack under the UIM. You don't need to remove it completely, but you'll need to unbolt it from the block so you and can move it out of the way. You'll need to undo the fuel system from the LIM (after you have the turbos out).
Thanks Mahjik,
I knew about the fuel rail...so let me get this straight...the UIM is not the plenum right!!
I have the plenum off already and as far as I know my next steps are as follows....
1. Remove the turbos
2. Remove the UIM
3. Unbolt the rats nest (but leave it all connected)
4. Unbolt the downpipe
5. Remove the fuel rail (leaving injectors intact)
6. Remove the LIM
UIM='plenum'.If you have a good digital camera take lots of pictures for reassembly.
Regarding your sequence--it is impossible to take turbos off until you remove downpipe.I find it easier to get downpipe studs and turbo studs from under the car,but easier to bring the turbos out from the top.
UIM='plenum'.If you have a good digital camera take lots of pictures for reassembly.
Regarding your sequence--it is impossible to take turbos off until you remove downpipe.I find it easier to get downpipe studs and turbo studs from under the car,but easier to bring the turbos out from the top.
Thanks guys, I dont know what I would do without this forum.
So the rats nest is under the plenum/uim, and I just need to unbolt it still leaving the hoses/solenoids connected!! Right?
You can leave the rats nest in the car. Just carefully disconnect any electrical connectors and vacuum hoses attached to the lim. This would also be a good time to replace the vacuum hoses with silicone if you haven't already done so and clean/upgrade fuel injectors and replace the pulsation dampener. As for the turbos, they have to come off because of the stupid design. You can't get to some of the lim bolts otherwise. Replace ALL gaskets/seals you undo, including the turbo oil return line gaskets. If the oil metering pump is leaking replace the gaskets and crush washers as well. The turbo hardware tends to gall/seize. PB blast helps some, heating with a propane torch is better. I like to use new studs and nuts if the old ones are at all questionable. I have extras if you need them. Put paper towels or rags in the intake ports and scrape/grind away all the old paper lim gasket with a die grinder with an abrasive sanding pad. The replacement metal gaskets rarely fail. Just take your time. Its time consuming but pretty much straight forward.
Also, the good thing is you really don't have to remove everything from the top of the motor. After removing the upper intake manifold, you can remove the air control valve and unbolt the secondary fuel rail, then undo the vacuum lines going to the lower intake manifold. If you're careful, you should be able to leave all the "stuff" on top of the engine and get the lower manifold out of the way.
Also, the good thing is you really don't have to remove everything from the top of the motor. After removing the upper intake manifold, you can remove the air control valve and unbolt the secondary fuel rail, then undo the vacuum lines going to the lower intake manifold. If you're careful, you should be able to leave all the "stuff" on top of the engine and get the lower manifold out of the way.
Dale
Never knew that I needed to remove the acv, probobly because I dont know what the proper names of the parts when I am looking at them!! Is the acv connected to the turbos (looks like an actuator)?
A recap on where I am with this...
1. Removed all air intake filters and piping
2. Removed the water pump
3. Removed the throttle elbow
4. Removed the plenum/uim
Was finding it difficult to remove the Y pipe and called it a day at this point!
Could someone please post the further steps required in the same number order to help me carry on. Some additional info on the parts that are most difficult would also be a massive help. Also, as I stated above I dont always know what certain things look like (ie I could be looking straight at the acv and not know it) so some pics would be super, but I dont want to cause anyone on here too much inconvenience!!
I recently had to replace my original paper LIM gasket, and while the general information in this thread was helpful I wanted to add some additional detail from my experience. The FSM is helpful too but also some of the pictures can be awful
Removed all intake and intercooler piping, air pump, belts (replacing them anyways), UIM, Y-pipe, downpipe, turbos and then LIM.
To get the LIM off of the block I had to unhook/loosen the following components:
Banjo bolt on secondary fuel rail
Split air pipe going to cat (unbolt from back of LIM)
The four vertically stacked vacuum hoses that go to the CRV, Y-pipe etc. (unhook on the rats nest side)
3-way solenoid on top of ACV (held on by one 10mm nut)
Two vacuum to ACV
Two gray injector connectors
Green gas themosensor connector
Three connectors on inside of LIM (two black and one white, take note of where they go as I think they have to do with sequential)
One vacuum on inside of LIM
Rubber fuel hose on firewall side and vacuum line
PIcture of back of manifold for reference. Hopefully this is helpful for someone in the future, though I wonder how many people still have the original paper gasket at this point lol. You can see where mine was blown from the black discoloration.
Cheers
Last edited by R3tr0grade; Mar 5, 2024 at 10:50 AM.
Reason: Formatting
Don't discourage the man, he's already taken the initiative to do his own work, the first step of being able to afford keeping an FD running for years... 
