As I am removing my subframe to fit the oil pan, what other things i should do since it is down already? change bushing? which brand is good for street and occasional track use?

 

Not really any jobs I would tackle at that point. Give the subframe a good cleaning, they are typically caked in filth.

Front suspension bushings do pretty well, the rear is where the more problematic bushings are.

You'll also soon find out why I prefer to pull the engine to seal the oil pan .

Dale

 

Have you started this endeavor yet? IMO, best to leave sleeping dogs lie. If your pan is leaking, you may want to try a brace first and see if that help. As Dale said, sealing a pan from the bottom is not the best idea. Some posts on the subject below. As for bushings, also agree that the front's don't see a lot of wear. The spindles on the control arms are a different matter though, but they are not replaceable. You need to replace the entire control arm (top and bottom). If you replace the bushings, the Mazda comps are better than poly, but poly is cheaper

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post11505799

Oil Pan Removal

 

I'm just curious, what's the problem with sealing it with the engine in the car? I followed the procedure in some of those links when I did mine and don't remember any issues/surprises.

At least the brace I got, you had to remove/reseal the pan as part of the brace installation anyways.

 

^One issue I think is the inability to keep the mating surface clean of oil long enough to get the gasket maker applied and pan/brace reinstalled.

 

Ah fair. I guess I took my sweet time doing it so it sat a day or two, so I didn't have any problems with residual oil leaking everywhere (and I was installing a new pan as well)

 

I just hate working over my head with a motor dangled over me. And as stated it's REALLY hard to stop the oil drips to get a good clean surface for the pan to mate to.

One of the best tips on getting an oil pan to seal is using a NEW pan. Most pans are bent from removal and will never go flat again.

I put my pan on when I built my engine about 12-15 years ago, motor was upside-down on an engine stand, used the Right Stuff grey sealant, put on an oil pan brace, torqued everything with a torque wrench. Pan STILL leaks. I've just dealt with having a seeping leak .

Dale