armytim2002

So me and my friend started putting a Banzai Racing oil pan brace and poly motor mounts on today. What a pain in the ***!!! The mounts weren't hard at all but that freaking oil pan removal was so freaking stupid! What the hell was Mazda thinking with that. They couldn't make the hole in the subframe just a little bigger so that the oil pan would drop right through. Luckily we were able to do it without removing the subframe but we did remove the oil pickup to make it slide out easier and its going to be a pain to put it back in. Cant slide it in with the silicone on it can we. So what we are going to try tomorrow (since we couldnt get it done today) is slide the pan in, put the pickup back on, and then try to put the silicone on with it just hanging there. Hopefully it works Id hate to have to take the pickup back off and scrape the silicone back off. Be even worse to have to remove the subframe

quickseven

iTrader: (3)

I just did both of those a few weeks ago...yes quite the pain. I had the same mindset as you going into it not wanting to pull the sub frame. After messing with it for a while it is just easier if you do. Really doesn't take much time and makes the replacement of the pan a lot easier. Some have done it without pulling it but I had to especially to clean off the old residue completely. Good Luck!

FD3sAutobot

iTrader: (6)

I did this last summer and the sub frame is a major pain to get out but it's well worth it so you can clean everything up easier. I found it actually easy to get the subframe back on too

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

The key to not having to do it again (even with the brace) is to get it clean. Really clean. Make sure the bolt holes are cleaned out too and let the sealant set undisturbed per directions.
Never tried it, but there's this too---> https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...easier+oil+pan

DaveW

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...easier+oil+pan

In this linked thread, it is described how to do it without a mess. The key is to put the sealer on the block, not the pan. There are also a couple of other useful tricks described.

black06g85

iTrader: (3)

good to know, doing mine next week along with all new bushings

DaveW

BTW, after following the procedures noted in this thread, it is now 5 years later, and my pan is still leak-free!

justturbo2

iTrader: (4)

what silicone are u guys using. which one works the best

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm

justturbo2

iTrader: (4)

thanks mahjik

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you don't have to remove the subframe but it is a hell of alot easier if you unbolt it from the frame and drop it down a few inches.

armytim2002

It was a pain in the *** but we did it. We went back and finished it the way that I put earlier. We cleaned the pan out/under engine and put the pan back in (we needed to convince it to go in lol). We then let it sit in that hole in the subframe and took turns sliding our hands between it and the block and put the studs in. Of course I had to drop the allen wrench into the pan when we were tightening them in but we were able to get it out with out taking the pan back out. We then put the silicone around the block not the pan and slid it on. The mounts were the easiest part just lined em up and we were good to go. Its cured and we picked it up 2 hours ago and its good to go. No leaks. Now I hope I never have to do that again lol.

armytim2002

oh on top of that i cracked my throttle body!! so perfect excuse for a new one any thoughts on where to go for a nice throttle body?

armytim2002

DAMN!!!!! I knew it was going to happen but I didn't listen to myself. I said to myself:
"Self, this is some pretty old silicone..."
"Yeah but its silicone it doesnt go bad. Besides it worked on the oil pan on your Lancer and its modded out"
"Yeah but its better to be safe than sorry."
"True but your already at the care center why go back out. Lets just get this over with."
"OK if you say so..."

Why the hell did I listen to myself! Now the 7 is leaking more than it was before I did this! Well now me and fore mentioned friend have to do it all over again. Did I mention he is a really good friend lol. This time Im going out and buying new stuff. So the question is Ultra Blue or Ultra Black???

TpCpLaYa

iTrader: (10)

how about "the right stuff" gasket maker like recommended before?

Ernesto13B

iTrader: (4)

My friend and I installed the banzai racing oil pan brace, Noltec urthethane motor mounts, and Permatex "The Right Stuff" gasket maker on a brand new oem oil pan on my FD last year in April. It WAS a PITA. I would strongly recommend to drop the subframe (which is what we did) because you then have plenty of room to tighten all the bolts and torque them properly in the star pattern and you can be sure its getting done right, because you don't wanna have to do it again. I havent leaked a drop of oil in almost a year and everything down there still looks new, and I do drive my car a lot.

I didnt realize it at first, but this is actually a 2 person job, well im sure 1 person can do it, but it took both of us to pry the subframe out from under the car. To apply the RTV, we followed the instructions on the Banzai Racing website, only we put the RTV on the pan instead, because putting it on the block upside down is obviously impossible. Look at the pictures on the Banzai Racing website and apply it exactly like you see it. Also make sure you apply RTV all around both of the motor mount holes (NOT inside) if you have any questions send me a PM i'll be more then happy to help

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Do it right and drop the subframe. You probably smeared the sealant all over trying to force the oil pan in.

DaveW

This is probably the reason. Did you put the sealant on the engine or the pan before assembly? If you do it with the subframe in place, it HAS TO BE DONE with the sealant applied to the engine, not the pan. As I said in the thread I referenced, it can be done (I had great success) with the subframe in place, but you do have to do it carefully. The tips in that thread are very useful.

Dave

karl_tate

will be tackling this myself soon. im going to take the engine out though lol

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

as i mentioned, this is a bad way to do an oil pan.

a) you can put stress on parts of the engine by jamming it so far up into the tunnel that you break something

and

b) it is near impossible to clean the bottom of the engine thoroughly with such little space.


it takes me about 3 hours to do an FD oil pan with conventional tools that you all surely have, there is no reason to try to make a pita job even more of a pita by not taking the 45 minutes to drop the subframe down.

armytim2002

Were going to drop the subframe this time for sure.

No we didnt smear any sealant putting it in. We put the pan in first and had enough room to let it sit on the subframe and put the sealant on the engine not the pan. Then we lifted the pan into place. The sealant is the problem in this situation not the method. The silicone when dry just flaked off so obviously it wasnt going to do the job. The only reason I used it is because I had it already and used it before for the exact same thing just on a different car. I havent had a problem in 5 years with the car I used it on. Im sure I could do it the same way we did and have it work but Id rather just have the extra room for comfort. My neck and arms still hurt from working in that little room.

DaveW

That is the best way to do it. I seem to have this mental defect where I resist taking anything apart that doesn't absolutely need to be disassembled. Sometimes it does make the job more difficult, but I still persist in doing things that way...

Dave

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Just to reiterate, use "The Right Stuff" as linked above. I've also been successful with "HONDABOND" with an oil pan brace, but after helping a friend re-seal his pan with "The Right Stuff", I think it's better.
DO NOT just use some off-the-shelf sealant. The nature of the surfaces involved are different from other more typical applications and those two products are proven to work as long as the surface is properly cleaned... and you allow it to cure.

armytim2002

I view it the same way as Dave. If I dont have to take it apart, Im not going to risk messing anything up or breaking a tool like a couple of people have when taking the subframe route (now I dont know what brand/quality tools they were using. Im using Craftsman and I know of one person for sure who broke Craftsman while doing this). Ill probably still go this route like I said for the comfort and for the ease (if I find it easier as everyone apparently does).

Ill look at "The Right Stuff" since it seems to be pretty recommended. I was just going to go the Ultra Blue or Black method since its what Banzai recommends in their directions

armytim2002

now for "The Right Stuff" are you guys using the Imports Gasket Maker or does it really matter?