GRK-RX7

What's up everyone? I thought I'd tackle changing my oil pan gasket by myself this time. I jacked up the transmission a bit and was able to sneak the oil pan out from in between the subframe. Problem is I have a Bonzai oil pan brace kit and the studs that go in the bottom of the engine are sticking down too far for me to wedge the oil pan back in.

This is where I need some help. I was thinking about completely taking the subframe off completely off of the car. I have read that a lot of guys take off the 6 bolts that are bolted onto the frame and use a pry bar and sneak the oil pan back in that way. Would it be difficult to actually remove the subframe from the car? I'm pretty sure I will have to ruin the alignment but either way I needed a new alignment job done anyway.

I also bought a oil pan gasket off of Ray from Malloy this passed week. Lots of people are saying they're junk, but I went ahead and bought one anyway to use with the RTV for added protection.

What do you guys think? Is it simple to disassemble and reassemble the subframe from the car completely and thoughts on the paper gasket along with the RTV for an extra sense of protection. You can never be too safe with these cars lol thanks in advance for those who answer and help me out!

boosted414

iTrader: (30)

motor is attached tot he sub frame, you would have better luck undoing the motor mounts and using an engine hoist to pull the engine up a couple inches. dropping the sub frame requires an engine nest/cradle on top of the car so it doesnt all come down with it.

GRK-RX7

I took the motor mounts off and jacked up the engine with a floor jack under the transmission. Nothing is sitting on the subframe. I probably should borrow a engine hoist just to be on the safe side. Is it difficult to completely take off the subframe off of the car and to reinstall it?

boosted414

iTrader: (30)

couple hours of work if you havent done it before. your suspension comes off with it, keep that in mind.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Difficult? No. The question is do you really need to removed it completely? Unless you have a reason to do so, I wouldn't bother with doing more than just undoing the bolts and dropping it a few inches for the clearance you need.

GRK-RX7

Thanks dude. The only reason is I thought that it would be much easier to apply the RTV and the oil pan and really take my time so I don't mess it up.

GRK-RX7

I don't need to remove it completely, I just thought if souls be easier if it were completely out of my way. Will I still be able to squeeze it in, without screwing up the RTV I will apply on the oil pan??

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Yes. You'll gain a few inches with just removing the bolts and letting it dangle a bit to do the job. That's enough to clean and seal the pan (with or without a oil pan brace).

7-sins

In addition to my response in your last thread. I just did this for the 2nd time in a month. 2 bolts, 4 nuts, 4 power steering bolts, 4 camber/castor cam bolts. Its super easy, I pulled it out within an hour, having it out of the way makes cleaning, working with the RTV, and aligning the pan with those brace studs *MUCH* easier. Not to mention proper room to get your torque wrench on there. Mark where the camber/caster cam lobes are sitting with a paint marker or touch up paint before loosening. Make sure not to mix up the location of the 4 camber/castor bolts after marked. Since you arn't adjusting your toe & you marked the camber/castor, alignment should be close to where it was when you reinstall. Toe is what eats the tires.