Regarding DIY work on the FD
07-18-15, 12:02 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North Battleford Saskatchewan
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Regarding DIY work on the FD
Greetings, so i've spent countless hours searching and learning about the FD, and watched a 4 hour video of a professional 13b re-builder teaching a new apprentice how to rebuild a 13b engine from absolute scratch after blowing a side seal. After watching this, and learning alot about the engines, I am fairly confident I would be able to rebuild a 13b FD rotary engine. Beyond the actual engine block/clutch plate, I am planning to continue learning until I can rebuild or take apart and rebuild the majority of the car. Is the engine block the most difficult part to rebuild? How hard is it to learn to rebuild the rest? That's my first question, now my real question.
So here is the deal, I own an Acura RSX 2005, and am looking to buy an FD as a project/2nd fun car. I have read tons on the reliability and mods required (Rat's nest, AST, vacuum hoses, radiator, intercooler, piping, apex, side, and corner seals, etc.) as well as steps in buying a used vehicle. My question is, is it possible to do all the repair work yourself? I plan to do just that, and if I buy a used FD, that has been taken car of, and I do all the reliability mods myself, how much will it cost me? This is with no labor and such as I am planning on doing this myself. I search the forums for an answer as requested but couldn't seem to find one. Third and fourth, once all the main reliability mods are done, and I do regular fluid changes and filter changes, how reliable will the car be with light mods? How long will it last abouts? (looking to make just around 300WHP) How much does it cost for me to buy a new side/rotor housing and seals if I blow one? Or will this not happen if I do the reliability mods and take care of the car. I am not planning to track it, but spirited driving may occur from time to time, nothing overly hard.
TLDR: I want to buy an FD, I want to make around 300WHP yet have the car be reliable enough to last a long time. How much will this cost me if I do all the labor MYSELF in reliability mods, and IS IT POSSIBLE? How much would I be spending per year in maintenance? (Not including filter and fluid changes)
Thanks guys,
Cole.
So here is the deal, I own an Acura RSX 2005, and am looking to buy an FD as a project/2nd fun car. I have read tons on the reliability and mods required (Rat's nest, AST, vacuum hoses, radiator, intercooler, piping, apex, side, and corner seals, etc.) as well as steps in buying a used vehicle. My question is, is it possible to do all the repair work yourself? I plan to do just that, and if I buy a used FD, that has been taken car of, and I do all the reliability mods myself, how much will it cost me? This is with no labor and such as I am planning on doing this myself. I search the forums for an answer as requested but couldn't seem to find one. Third and fourth, once all the main reliability mods are done, and I do regular fluid changes and filter changes, how reliable will the car be with light mods? How long will it last abouts? (looking to make just around 300WHP) How much does it cost for me to buy a new side/rotor housing and seals if I blow one? Or will this not happen if I do the reliability mods and take care of the car. I am not planning to track it, but spirited driving may occur from time to time, nothing overly hard.
TLDR: I want to buy an FD, I want to make around 300WHP yet have the car be reliable enough to last a long time. How much will this cost me if I do all the labor MYSELF in reliability mods, and IS IT POSSIBLE? How much would I be spending per year in maintenance? (Not including filter and fluid changes)
Thanks guys,
Cole.
07-18-15, 09:12 AM
#2
Of course it is difficult to answer your questions definitively. You have started reading and need to continue. There are many great threads in here, such as:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...nners-1010998/
I give you this one because it speaks to the kind of car you describe. If you have a love for the car (or at least a deep affection, lol) you will learn what you need to know. On the other hand, while it is the perfect car for someone who wants to learn everything about it, it is not the perfect car if you need to worry about spending money. Get a good, low mileage if possible, car to begin with and take good care of it. I bought mine new and still love it, even though it is currently for sale (probably too far from you. . .). Good luck and welcome to the forum (and world) of RX7's!
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...nners-1010998/
I give you this one because it speaks to the kind of car you describe. If you have a love for the car (or at least a deep affection, lol) you will learn what you need to know. On the other hand, while it is the perfect car for someone who wants to learn everything about it, it is not the perfect car if you need to worry about spending money. Get a good, low mileage if possible, car to begin with and take good care of it. I bought mine new and still love it, even though it is currently for sale (probably too far from you. . .). Good luck and welcome to the forum (and world) of RX7's!
07-18-15, 09:15 AM
#3
Welcome to the forum first off. You are on the right track by learning as much as you can first. There is a certain stigma about these cars that they are unreliable,but over the years i realized its not the cars, its the owners. It is a great car but the only thing unique about it is the motor. sometimes i'll get a little nervous about a repair i need to do, but i remind myself that its just a car. I've worked on many cars over the years, i dont know why this one still makes me nervous at times. its probably the paranoia i get from certain members on the forum,lol.
That being said, it is very possible to have a 300whp Fd and it be solid as a rock, especially if you start with a good car. i think i had the most fun with my fd when it was mostly stock with just a dp, highflow cat, exhaust etc. it really was just a blast to drive, have full ac, just rip on it and go home. my .02
That being said, it is very possible to have a 300whp Fd and it be solid as a rock, especially if you start with a good car. i think i had the most fun with my fd when it was mostly stock with just a dp, highflow cat, exhaust etc. it really was just a blast to drive, have full ac, just rip on it and go home. my .02
07-18-15, 10:01 AM
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,829
Received 2,597 Likes
on
1,845 Posts
except for maybe under the intake manifold, and inside the transmission the FD is actually a very easy car to work on, its made to come apart.
07-18-15, 11:56 AM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North Battleford Saskatchewan
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Welcome to the forum first off. You are on the right track by learning as much as you can first. There is a certain stigma about these cars that they are unreliable,but over the years i realized its not the cars, its the owners. It is a great car but the only thing unique about it is the motor. sometimes i'll get a little nervous about a repair i need to do, but i remind myself that its just a car. I've worked on many cars over the years, i dont know why this one still makes me nervous at times. its probably the paranoia i get from certain members on the forum,lol.
That being said, it is very possible to have a 300whp Fd and it be solid as a rock, especially if you start with a good car. i think i had the most fun with my fd when it was mostly stock with just a dp, highflow cat, exhaust etc. it really was just a blast to drive, have full ac, just rip on it and go home. my .02
That being said, it is very possible to have a 300whp Fd and it be solid as a rock, especially if you start with a good car. i think i had the most fun with my fd when it was mostly stock with just a dp, highflow cat, exhaust etc. it really was just a blast to drive, have full ac, just rip on it and go home. my .02
07-18-15, 11:58 AM
#6
Lots of variables so your individual experience will definitely vary. Of course your starting point is important too. That being said, I've been able to maintain and do all my own work on my FD for the last 10 years; no shop has ever touched my car except for inspections and an occasional alignment in that time.
I have no training or background in cars and am not mechanically inclined but there is so much information here and elsewhere that it's simply a matter of proper research and planning to perform any repair you might want to do. I've replaced (but not rebuilt) the engine, clutch, turbos, every part of the turbo control systems, done reliability mods like radiator, oil coolers, SMIC, etc. as well as basic PFC WB02 tuning, etc. So it's entirely possible.
As far as a 300whp, reliable FD, that's really not asking too much if you keep on top of things. Do the reliability mods (pre-cat removal, AST, check valves/vacuum lines, boost gauge, etc. - maybe $500 in parts?) first. Keep her running cool and make sure you don't over-boost. At a minimum for that power level you'll want a 100% healthy engine/turbo system before you start modifying and then add an ECU, boost control, intake, SMIC, cat-back... Not really that much to get to 300, (maybe $1000 on the low end if you buy used parts and opt for a M2/Pettit ECU instead of a PFC).
When I replaced my motor, according the spreadsheet I used to track all the parts, I spent about $2400. That included:
- Purchasing a complete rebuilt long-block w/turbos, clutch, etc.
- Selling my old motor
- New OEM parts for new motor: FPD, TOB, clutch fork, plate + disc, pilot bearing/seal, every coolant hose available, crush washers, gaskets, spark plugs, fuel hose
- Oil pan brace
BTW: running a rotary hard is part of keeping it healthy. Babying the engine is unwise.
I have no training or background in cars and am not mechanically inclined but there is so much information here and elsewhere that it's simply a matter of proper research and planning to perform any repair you might want to do. I've replaced (but not rebuilt) the engine, clutch, turbos, every part of the turbo control systems, done reliability mods like radiator, oil coolers, SMIC, etc. as well as basic PFC WB02 tuning, etc. So it's entirely possible.
As far as a 300whp, reliable FD, that's really not asking too much if you keep on top of things. Do the reliability mods (pre-cat removal, AST, check valves/vacuum lines, boost gauge, etc. - maybe $500 in parts?) first. Keep her running cool and make sure you don't over-boost. At a minimum for that power level you'll want a 100% healthy engine/turbo system before you start modifying and then add an ECU, boost control, intake, SMIC, cat-back... Not really that much to get to 300, (maybe $1000 on the low end if you buy used parts and opt for a M2/Pettit ECU instead of a PFC).
When I replaced my motor, according the spreadsheet I used to track all the parts, I spent about $2400. That included:
- Purchasing a complete rebuilt long-block w/turbos, clutch, etc.
- Selling my old motor
- New OEM parts for new motor: FPD, TOB, clutch fork, plate + disc, pilot bearing/seal, every coolant hose available, crush washers, gaskets, spark plugs, fuel hose
- Oil pan brace
BTW: running a rotary hard is part of keeping it healthy. Babying the engine is unwise.
07-18-15, 12:03 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North Battleford Saskatchewan
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lots of variables so your individual experience will definitely vary. Of course your starting point is important too. That being said, I've been able to maintain and do all my own work on my FD for the last 10 years; no shop has ever touched my car except for inspections and an occasional alignment in that time.
I have no training or background in cars and am not mechanically inclined but there is so much information here and elsewhere that it's simply a matter of proper research and planning to perform any repair you might want to do. I've replaced (but not rebuilt) the engine, clutch, turbos, every part of the turbo control systems, done reliability mods like radiator, oil coolers, SMIC, etc. as well as basic PFC WB02 tuning, etc. So it's entirely possible.
As far as a 300whp, reliable FD, that's really not asking too much if you keep on top of things. Do the reliability mods (pre-cat removal, AST, check valves/vacuum lines, boost gauge, etc. - maybe $500 in parts?) first. Keep her running cool and make sure you don't over-boost. At a minimum for that power level you'll want a 100% healthy engine/turbo system before you start modifying and then add an ECU, boost control, intake, SMIC, cat-back... Not really that much to get to 300, (maybe $1000 on the low end if you buy used parts and opt for a M2/Pettit ECU instead of a PFC).
When I replaced my motor, according the spreadsheet I used to track all the parts, I spent about $2400. That included:
- Purchasing a complete rebuilt long-block w/turbos, clutch, etc.
- Selling my old motor
- New OEM parts for new motor: FPD, TOB, clutch fork, plate + disc, pilot bearing/seal, every coolant hose available, crush washers, gaskets, spark plugs, fuel hose
- Oil pan brace
BTW: running a rotary hard is part of keeping it healthy. Babying the engine is unwise.
I have no training or background in cars and am not mechanically inclined but there is so much information here and elsewhere that it's simply a matter of proper research and planning to perform any repair you might want to do. I've replaced (but not rebuilt) the engine, clutch, turbos, every part of the turbo control systems, done reliability mods like radiator, oil coolers, SMIC, etc. as well as basic PFC WB02 tuning, etc. So it's entirely possible.
As far as a 300whp, reliable FD, that's really not asking too much if you keep on top of things. Do the reliability mods (pre-cat removal, AST, check valves/vacuum lines, boost gauge, etc. - maybe $500 in parts?) first. Keep her running cool and make sure you don't over-boost. At a minimum for that power level you'll want a 100% healthy engine/turbo system before you start modifying and then add an ECU, boost control, intake, SMIC, cat-back... Not really that much to get to 300, (maybe $1000 on the low end if you buy used parts and opt for a M2/Pettit ECU instead of a PFC).
When I replaced my motor, according the spreadsheet I used to track all the parts, I spent about $2400. That included:
- Purchasing a complete rebuilt long-block w/turbos, clutch, etc.
- Selling my old motor
- New OEM parts for new motor: FPD, TOB, clutch fork, plate + disc, pilot bearing/seal, every coolant hose available, crush washers, gaskets, spark plugs, fuel hose
- Oil pan brace
BTW: running a rotary hard is part of keeping it healthy. Babying the engine is unwise.
Trending Topics
07-18-15, 02:05 PM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North Battleford Saskatchewan
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not sure if those precise numbers were a serious response.....
07-18-15, 07:36 PM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North Battleford Saskatchewan
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Haha I hope he was serious, obviously the prices will be different for everyone but I just wanted the prices from someones FD example that's wanting to run a similar build
07-18-15, 07:39 PM
#12
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North Battleford Saskatchewan
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
07-18-15, 08:08 PM
#13
I'm going to take a stab:
1993 Very Red FD
? from Peter Farrell Supercars (SMIC or motor?)
Power-FC
exhaust gas recirculation delete
air pump delete
double throttle delete
air separation tank delete
lightweight flywheel
aux injection (water/meth?)
11 psi boost
f*ck yes?
1993 Very Red FD
? from Peter Farrell Supercars (SMIC or motor?)
Power-FC
exhaust gas recirculation delete
air pump delete
double throttle delete
air separation tank delete
lightweight flywheel
aux injection (water/meth?)
11 psi boost
f*ck yes?
07-18-15, 08:15 PM
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North Battleford Saskatchewan
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm going to take a stab:
1993 Very Red FD
? from Peter Farrell Supercars (SMIC or motor?)
Power-FC
exhaust gas recirculation delete
air pump delete
double throttle delete
air separation tank delete
lightweight flywheel
aux injection (water/meth?)
11 psi boost
f*ck yes?
1993 Very Red FD
? from Peter Farrell Supercars (SMIC or motor?)
Power-FC
exhaust gas recirculation delete
air pump delete
double throttle delete
air separation tank delete
lightweight flywheel
aux injection (water/meth?)
11 psi boost
f*ck yes?
07-18-15, 10:57 PM
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North Battleford Saskatchewan
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
07-18-15, 10:58 PM
#17
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: North Battleford Saskatchewan
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So just a question, how much are you guys spending strictly on repairs during the year on your RX-7's? Seen lotsa threads on overall yearly spending but none on repairs so far? Like really, how often are they breaking for you guys?
07-19-15, 02:00 AM
#18
Rotary Enthusiast
^luck of the draw. iv been lucky some years and not had to do anything other then oil/coolant.
my car ran for over 6 years with no major problems..a hose here or there, a clutch, some shocks..misc check valves n stuff. maintenance stuff really
not so bad if you do the work yourself.
Id say i probably spent less then 1k a year on maintenance. I daily drove the car for most of that time as well.
my car ran for over 6 years with no major problems..a hose here or there, a clutch, some shocks..misc check valves n stuff. maintenance stuff really
not so bad if you do the work yourself.
Id say i probably spent less then 1k a year on maintenance. I daily drove the car for most of that time as well.
07-19-15, 10:00 AM
#19
I'm going to take a stab:
1993 Vintage Red FD
Peter Farrell Supercars (SMIC and modified intake)
Power-FC
exhaust gas recirculation delete
air pump delete
double throttle delete
air separation tank delete
lightweight flywheel
aux injection (water/meth?)
11 psi boost
f*ck yes? (or efini 'Y'...but both work
)
1993 Vintage Red FD
Peter Farrell Supercars (SMIC and modified intake)
Power-FC
exhaust gas recirculation delete
air pump delete
double throttle delete
air separation tank delete
lightweight flywheel
aux injection (water/meth?)
11 psi boost
f*ck yes? (or efini 'Y'...but both work
)
07-19-15, 10:11 AM
#20
Depending on your budget for the purchase of the car, I would say your best bet would be to contact Allrotor93.
He sells premium quality cars and the prices are pretty good. They all have rebuilt engines and new paint. Would be a great starting point. Let's you learn how to drive it without worry of imminent doom. Then modify as you go.
If you want a PROJECT car to start with, contact Fritz Flynn, he usually has at least one floating around. If you go this route, you can learn a lot about how to work on them, since you'll have to put it all back together.
Working on these cars is not so bad, I've more or less completely gone thru mine, and nothing is real difficult. Only real issues are dealing work the vacuum hoses, time consuming and lots of time consulting the diagram. The actual testing of the solenoids was not real bad either, just takes time.
Vince
He sells premium quality cars and the prices are pretty good. They all have rebuilt engines and new paint. Would be a great starting point. Let's you learn how to drive it without worry of imminent doom. Then modify as you go.
If you want a PROJECT car to start with, contact Fritz Flynn, he usually has at least one floating around. If you go this route, you can learn a lot about how to work on them, since you'll have to put it all back together.
Working on these cars is not so bad, I've more or less completely gone thru mine, and nothing is real difficult. Only real issues are dealing work the vacuum hoses, time consuming and lots of time consulting the diagram. The actual testing of the solenoids was not real bad either, just takes time.
Vince
07-19-15, 11:20 PM
#21
Rebuilding the engine is easy. Taking it out of the car, braking everything down and successfully reassembling everything is a different story. I have done it and the FD is tricky as far as working on it with all it's wondrous vacuum hoses and brittle wiring.
07-20-15, 06:15 AM
#22
FWIW, I just purchased a 93 with 62k recently and have already purchased $4k in parts for it. Granted, I'm a spare-no-cost kind of guy, I plan on daily driving this car in the hot arizona heat, and this is my second FD, I am anticipating many parts to either be broken, will be broken removing them, or already require replacement.
Here is my previous build thread with all costs associated tallied up.
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...hread-1021120/
Here is my "reliability shopping list" thread I created recently with ideas from other members of what to anticipate purchasing for the spare-no-cost reliability reassurance.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post11915178
Here is my previous build thread with all costs associated tallied up.
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...hread-1021120/
Here is my "reliability shopping list" thread I created recently with ideas from other members of what to anticipate purchasing for the spare-no-cost reliability reassurance.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati.../#post11915178
07-20-15, 12:25 PM
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: tx
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i spent about 3-4k on parts for my fd the first year i owned it. None of the parts i replaced were broken and my car has never given me any problems. Its a 94 with under 60k miles. The cost of ownership is going to vary wildly. I bought an fd because i love to work on my own cars and i feel like the fd is perfect for the kind of person that likes to take pride in your own work. The hardest part of owning one is trying to keep it simple and not get caught up in the power chasing game and the crazy body kit game. The car is great in the 300-400whp range.
07-20-15, 06:20 PM
#24
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 1,169
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes
on
10 Posts
There are going to be things that need replacing and you just have to roll with it. Another thing that can get annoying is for some reason these engines like to leak oil. From somewhere and some how they just like to leak. oil pan, oil filter pedestal, oil fill neck, and once you think you have them all fixed, it leaks out of the oil line right through the fitting. ah damn it.
I replaced basically everything on my car except the powerfc, pulleys.
since 2011.
Turbo's went out. went single turbo.
Fuel injectors were old and the secondaries were 1300cc, stuck injectors I think not, new fuel system, fuel pump, lines, FPR, etc to support and update the fuel system.
new clutch
New intake custom.
clutch line leaking fluid, changed that.
redid the engine oil pan twice.
oil filter pedestal O-rings
re-did engine harness, things kept breaking on it, (rywire harness)
bent PPF, bought different one
Bought new wheels and tires
new oil filler neck O-ring, oil filter pedestal o-rings
Needed twin power
new midpipe and exhaust
new suspension and springs
new brakes, bigger ones, 99 spec fd
re-painted front bumper and fixed holes in it
upgraded lights so I can see well at night (came with evo-r)
re-wired fuel pump
changed tranny, diff fluid, new fuel filter
Replaced all new suspension bushings and pillowball mounts
Made ducting for intercooler and radiator
Installed custom 2-cycle tank
replaced all water heater hoses and little radiator lines everywhere
installed H2O/meth injection for safety
re-tuned car multiple times by myself to make it perfect
played with idle for hours to perfect it
rolled fenders
tried to install a diff brace but didn't fit well
relocated charcoal canister drain vent (mine never connected to the UIM)
all new vacuum lines
converted custom V-mount
Made all intercooler piping, cut, welded, machined, smoothed, etc
fixed oil cooler bracket after breaking
replaced thermostat
relocated air separater tank
replaced radiator cap
purchased pineapple racing idle pulley, replaced bearings in that after they failed
replaced water pump, mazmart
purchased new engine mount bolts to studs
the car has about everything changed and runs like a beast, then recently I am seeing oil leaking at the 13B logo, still haven't located the leak exactly, either the hole in the center plate or dowel pin leak, or oil filter pedestal with the new o-rings, or oil filler neck. right when you think you are done it laughs at you. I did change fluid from 10w-30 to 15w-50 hoping the higher viscosity might stop the leak....wishful thinking.
so lots can go wrong, and over time things just look crappy so you replace/fix them.
I replaced basically everything on my car except the powerfc, pulleys.
since 2011.
Turbo's went out. went single turbo.
Fuel injectors were old and the secondaries were 1300cc, stuck injectors I think not, new fuel system, fuel pump, lines, FPR, etc to support and update the fuel system.
new clutch
New intake custom.
clutch line leaking fluid, changed that.
redid the engine oil pan twice.
oil filter pedestal O-rings
re-did engine harness, things kept breaking on it, (rywire harness)
bent PPF, bought different one
Bought new wheels and tires
new oil filler neck O-ring, oil filter pedestal o-rings
Needed twin power
new midpipe and exhaust
new suspension and springs
new brakes, bigger ones, 99 spec fd
re-painted front bumper and fixed holes in it
upgraded lights so I can see well at night (came with evo-r)
re-wired fuel pump
changed tranny, diff fluid, new fuel filter
Replaced all new suspension bushings and pillowball mounts
Made ducting for intercooler and radiator
Installed custom 2-cycle tank
replaced all water heater hoses and little radiator lines everywhere
installed H2O/meth injection for safety
re-tuned car multiple times by myself to make it perfect
played with idle for hours to perfect it
rolled fenders
tried to install a diff brace but didn't fit well
relocated charcoal canister drain vent (mine never connected to the UIM)
all new vacuum lines
converted custom V-mount
Made all intercooler piping, cut, welded, machined, smoothed, etc
fixed oil cooler bracket after breaking
replaced thermostat
relocated air separater tank
replaced radiator cap
purchased pineapple racing idle pulley, replaced bearings in that after they failed
replaced water pump, mazmart
purchased new engine mount bolts to studs
the car has about everything changed and runs like a beast, then recently I am seeing oil leaking at the 13B logo, still haven't located the leak exactly, either the hole in the center plate or dowel pin leak, or oil filter pedestal with the new o-rings, or oil filler neck. right when you think you are done it laughs at you. I did change fluid from 10w-30 to 15w-50 hoping the higher viscosity might stop the leak....wishful thinking.
so lots can go wrong, and over time things just look crappy so you replace/fix them.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post