Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Hey everyone,

So I just picked up a nice 93 VR base with 62k on it. This will be my second FD and I'm compiling my "to do" list already. My shopping list compiled so far is thus:

-DEFI boost and water temp gauges with tripower dual gauge pod
-Bonez downpipe with new O2 sensor and gaskets
-Koyo radiator with new OEM radiator hoses
-Aluminum AST with new OEM hoses
-Vibra-technics engine mounts with a steel drivers mount arm
-Banzai oil pan brace with new OEM oil pan (oil pan is leaking)
-low mileage R1 dual oil coolers (being rebuilt by American Oil Coolers in TX) with new crush gaskets
-Silicone vacuum hose kit from hiperformancehose
-Azeknightz turbo control solenoid rack
-AMSOIL MTG for the transmission and severe gear for the Differential
-New NGK plugs and wires
-12qts Idemitsu premix (that's like a dang lifetime supply! :p)
The following parts are NEW and OEM from ray @Malloy
-Fuel pulsation dampener, injector O-rings, diffusers, grommets, and fuel filter
-OMP nozzles, crush gaskets, and OEM lines
-FC thermoswitch
-Throttle Dashpot
-y pipe coupler, 1" air intake hoses for ABV, CRV, etc
-Turbo coolant hoses


All these parts I either have on order, will have on order, or have already purchased. The interest of my RX7 is to be a reliability build (with as little aftermarket as possible). I would prefer to keep MOST things OEM as I would prefer to not diminish value. My build thread will be a new OEM drool thread if anyone has any input as to anything I may be missing or suggestions, it would be greatly appreciated!

Matt

adam c

iTrader: (2)

An Efini y-pipe would be a nice oem addition to the list.
Tri Point makes a nice AST. Dont get the Pettit AST, it's not good quality construction.

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Hey Adam

So I've been eyeing the banzai racing AST because it retains the factory AST cap (another small detail I like about it). I have been highly considering an Efini Y pipe. They seem to sell instantly when they appear in the for sale section. Maybe I should just get a new one :P my EGR is throwing a code (California model) so I'm debating on replacing the valve or using a non California ECU and removing the vacuum line under the UIM. I've heard it doesn't do much (it's not even installed on 95 FD's I believe)

Matt

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I wouldn't do an aftermarket solenoid rack. IMHO it's more likely to have problems with the wiring and new plumbing than the stock setup. Really, stock solenoids don't fail as often as people make them out to be. If you get the underhood temps in check and don't cook them they are much happier. Also, if you're wanting to keep things OEM that's not going that route, that's a big hack and slash to install that solenoid rack.

I would have the downpipe Jet-Hot coated, makes a HUGE difference in underhood temps. Jet-Hot 2000 is damn near indestructible and lasts forever. Get a used, rusty, tired looking one for cheap and send it to Jet-Hot, it will come back brand-new looking.

Efini Y-pipes come up fairly frequently and they're not too pricey, around $200 or less.

Dale

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Dale,

I've been thinking the same thing about the solenoid rack seeing as I will be running stock boost levels for a long time. I had them on my last FD and my sequential system worked FLAWLESSLY with them. I had issues with slow transitions prior. Maybe I'll give the stock rats nest a chance this time :P I'll just need to get some spare good solenoids I suppose. I'll have to get a quote on the jet hot coating. I've been debating on whether or not it's worth the investment. I also plan to run those nice viton check valves of yours.

Matt

adam c

iTrader: (2)

I cant tell much from the ast pic on Banzai's website. Hopefully it isnt the same as the one from Pettit.

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Aside from an aluminum AST, is there any honest disadvantage to a NEW OEM AST? I know they tend to get old and split, but what's the honest life expectancy on it? The one on mine looks pretty ugly, but it's also 22 years old :P

Speed of light

iTrader: (8)

Yep, I completely agree with what Dale wrote above and will underscore all of his suggestions.

Additionally, If you feel you like changing something (besides the hoses), there is one worthwhile improvement I would suggest: replace [only] the Turbo Control Solenoid 'E' in the lower rack with an industrial type (a 3 port type MAC solenoid--same as used for electronic boost controllers--works well and can be had for $20 to $30). Solenoid E is the one that is most likely to hang preventing proper sequential mode transitions.

The stock solenoid is problematic for the FD's sequential control configuration because solenoid E must rely on its small internal spring to unseat its plunger against system pressure when de-energized. As a result, it seems prone to unreliable or sticky operation--potentially hanging the system until sufficient pressure is bled off to allow it to fully release and the twins to reset. Note that this problem can be exasperated by higher than stock boost pressures. (Keep in mind that Mazda's solenoids were likely designed for vacuum operation and adopted to this application and that the subject solenoid E is the only one in the system faced with this unusually tough operational requirement. All of the other solenoids are situated in a relatively benign arrangement and don't seem to be much of a problem as Dale has mentioned.) Btw, I posted a work around for this problem somewhere on this forum years ago, as have others.

Hope this helps.

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

From the sound of it, it seems I should put the Azeknights rack up for sale. I'll probably just order two or three new solenoids from Ray to include solenoid E mentioned above. I wouldn't be surprised if some of mine are bad at 22 years and 62k miles. Anyone have experience with off the shelf solenoids being bad? On the subject of underhood temps, I'm leaning towards a new OEM AST to keep things stock (they're also cheaper). The vulnerability of the stock one is that they get old and split with heat and age. With a jet hot coated downpipe, I would imagine that would extend the life of a new stock one.

Matt

ZE Power MX6

iTrader: (157)

There are some Efini y-pipe in the FS section right now.

As far as solenoid, I tested like 15 of them and kept 3 that are still working perfectly, and I have smooth transition running 12-14psi.

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

I noticed the Efini Y pipes for sale :P Were the 15 solenoids you tested brand new or used ones? There are 9 Solenoids total in the rats nest and I believe they are all in the ~$50-70 range. Buying all brand new ones seems to be a bit overkill so I will order 4 most likely in the event some of my stock ones fail.

Does anyone have other recommendations? I haven't seen any feedback on the vibra-technics mounts.

The modified list now looks like this:

-DEFI boost and water temp gauges with tripower dual gauge pod
-Jet Hot coated Bonez downpipe with new O2 sensor and gaskets
-Koyo radiator with new OEM radiator hoses
-NEW OEM AST with new OEM hoses
-Vibra-technics engine mounts with a steel drivers mount arm <--Any thoughts on just a new steel drivers mount? Or other suggestions maybe?
-Banzai oil pan brace [I'd like to powdercoat it black :P] with new OEM oil pan (oil pan is leaking)
-low mileage R1 dual oil coolers (being rebuilt by American Cooler Service in TX) with new crush gaskets
-Silicone vacuum hose kit from hiperformancestore [unless I can figure out which SVH to get from Boostcontroller.com [TURBOLOGIC OR TURBOSMART DALE CLARK? ]
-AMSOIL MTG for the transmission and severe gear for the Differential
-New NGK plugs and wires
-12qts Idemitsu premix (that's like a dang lifetime supply! :p)
The following parts are NEW and OEM from ray @Malloy
-Fuel pulsation dampener, injector O-rings, diffusers, grommets, and fuel filter
-OMP nozzles, crush gaskets, and OEM lines
-4ea rats nest solenoids
-FC thermoswitch
-Throttle Dashpot
-Efini Y Pipe, 1" air intake hoses for ABV, CRV, etc
-Turbo coolant/throttle body hoses



Matt

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*If you don't know when they may have been changed last, consider new turbo coolant hoses. They don't cost much.
*Along with your plugs and wires, check the coil harness for being crispy with age and heat.
*Since you're in there anyway, new fuel hose would be a no-brainer.
*Get some upholstery foam and plug the gaps around your radiator.

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

I've got the Turbo coolant hoses on my list, the coil harness however is a suggestion I didn't think about. Seems that there was an update and the newer harness' have a different form of grounding. Supposedly, it should help with a more reliable ignition set up. Great suggestion! Adding that to the list. The fuel hose recall kit has been in the back of my mind as well as to whether or not I should. Sealing the radiator with foam will also be added to the list.

Thanks!

Matt

ZE Power MX6

iTrader: (157)

They were all used, I bought a full rack from someone plus the ones I already have. I tested all of them and I think half were either bad or have broken nipple or mounting clip, I ended up with 2 good sets enough for simplified sequential, I installed one set on my car and sold the other set. If by the time these go bad and I'm not bored of the twins yet then I might order some new one from Ray.

Not sure how far you plan to tear this thing down to, but might be good to get all new gaskets like LIM/UIM/TP/AWS etc.

earlqhan

iTrader: (5)

Great list, there's some of these things I need to do myself.

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

Intake manifold gaskets added to the list. :P this FD is gonna be my daily for a few months so it needs to be rock solid.

prescription 7

iTrader: (5)

From a reliability/maintenance standpoint on a high mileage car the only things I might add to the list are clean up the ground points, SS brake/clutch lines, and mmaaayybeee a stock reinforced clutch fork if you're looking into getting a stronger aftermarket clutch.

ZE Power MX6

iTrader: (157)

Also, depend on what your future mod plans are, I would suggest cleaning and flow testing your injectors since you are removing everything to install o-rings and diffuser anyways.

I have some recently cleaned 850 in rail for sale if you are interested, they only have 300 miles on them since cleaning.

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

Just go ahead and replace ALL the hoses. And Get new OEM hose clamps while you are at it. You'll thank me for recommending the OEM hose clamps when you start installing them.

ZE Power MX6

iTrader: (157)

^ +1 on OEM hose clamps, they are so much easier to work with.

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

I need to do some more research on the fuel hose recall kit and see what it all comes with. Those OEM hose clamps sure look expensive! [based off internet mazda dealer pricing, not sure what the price from Ray is] ALL hose clamps? Like AST/radiator/turbo/throttle body coolant? Or just Fuel hose ones?

Matt

Reno_NVFD

iTrader: (2)

If you wanna pay for shipping I have a downpipe you can have. Doesn't look pretty but if you get it coated doesn't much matter.

SA3R

The stock plastic AST tank (not many people know this) has a small orifice in the bottom hose. This orifice size is essential to keeping the coolant in the AST for the correct amount of time, to allow it to purge bubbles.

Many, many people just whack the alloy AST on the car and do not ever check to see that ALL aftermarket ASTs have the wrong orifice size in the bottom port. They are all manufactured too big and the coolant does not stay in the AST long enough.

Excerpt from Cooling System

According to 'cooling system guy', the orifice sizing of the AST is as important if not more important (I'm recalling from memory, don't blame him if I screw it up than the AST tank size. The orifice sizing will control the flow through the AST to both keep the fluid relatively stagnant in the tank but also (probably more importantly) to keep too much fluid from going through it because it is basically a route for coolant to travel that bypasses the radiator.

In all aftermarket ASTs, a small restrictor pill needs to be inserted in the bottom hose to keep the function of the tank the same as stock. I have the Banzai AST and made a stainless steel restrictor pill in my lathe for the car, with the correct factory orifice size.

As a side note, the Banzai tank has performed great for a few years now. The machined neck and cap area is thicker and miles better than the thin stamped alloy junk ones, and it has been a great addition to my car. I can vouch for it.

rxmiles

iTrader: (11)

+1 on sending your injectors out to be cleaned. I used RC engineering and am very pleased. I made the mistake of buying Mazda OEM expensive injector O-rings and RC replaced them anyways.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

I'd ditch the ast. Once you get all the air out of the system, it really does nothing and is just another failure point/thing to clutter up the engine bay. I never run them unless a customer really wants one. Been doing it this way for 18 years+. Never had an issue. I'd get the filler body and cap to eliminate it from Malloy Mazda.

The stock solenoids are fine for what you are doing. Get a set of Dale's Viton check valves.

Eliminate the PCV

Delete the double throttle and accelerated warmup.


Definitely new coil harness if yours is the older style with the ground to the coil.


New hardware and gasket for the downpipe install.


Look at your primary fuel rail. If the hose from the primary to secondary rail is crimped on you have the recall done. If its a slip on hose with a clamp you don't.


180 degree thermostat.


New water pump. I sell an updated version similar to the series 8 pumps which have a better impeller design.


Motor mounts are really your choice. Do your research. A lot of aftermarket mounts induce vibration. Mine don't.


New hardware and gasket for the downipe install. If you reuse the stock nuts, most likely the next time it has to come off they will seize/strip.


Ypipe gaskets and oring