What would any of you recommend with breaking in my new rebuilt motor (95 rx7 13b). Any recommendations for when I install it, or heads up you might wanna give me that you had trouble with?

 

I can tell you personally that you will need to get it tuned. Just got my car back from Gotham Racing a couple of days ago. The break in is as follows: First 500 miles, dont rev over 4k rpms, try to keep it at 0 boost. Change oil, maybe 10w40 or 20w50 grade. Second 500 miles, dont rev over 6k rpms, try to keep it under 5psi boost. Change oil again, your choice 10w40 or 20w50. Then go get it tuned. Hope this helps.

 

you dont HAVE to use 10w40 or 20w50. it just depends on where you are and what you prefer. i usually run 5w30 in mine... been thinking of getting something heavier though... and use GOOD oil... not cheap ****. Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Redline, Castrol. Any of those will do. Also, some people say to break it in for 500 miles, 1000 miles, 1500 miles, and on up to 3000 miles.

 

Synthetic oils on break in make the break in period MUCH longer (i.e. a lot of the brands you listed). BMW M3's use synthetic all the time and it taks about 8-10k miles for their break in's. Racing Beat also noticed it took MUCH longer for break in's using synthetic. Use dino oil for the motor break in period, then switch to synthetic oils if you like.

 

I agree with above, as I went to 2000mi before I finally did that wonderful first hard pull. However, I would not use 20w50 whatsoever until the motor is past the break-in period. As far as synthetic goes, I was learned that rotaries NEVER get synthetic. As we know, rotaries burn more oil than your regular piston motor, and because of that synthetic was not good on a rotary that was anything but a full out race block. Reason being is because as the motor burns oil, it will leave teflon deposits behind, causing problems down the road.

Anyone disagree?? Agree?? Don't give a ****??

 

Lots of people on here run synthetic once they break in the engine, I plan on doing the same once I break mine in.

 

This is the breakin that my engine builder suggested, and what I followed...

Breakin should be completed as follows.Keep rpms under 4000, oil changes at 500 and 2000 miles, and no boost above atmospheric(turbo models).

Great improvements in starting, idle quality and overall smoothness/power will begin occurring immediately, but most improvement will be reached by 1500 miles, at which time you can gradually increase rpm and boost. By the time the engine reaches 2000 miles, it is basically broken in and can be treated as you wish within reason.

BTW thats from Kevin Lander's site... www.rotaryresurrection.com

Ive had great luck with it so far.

 

Below is the recommondation from MazdaMotorSport for race engines. Granted the clearances are different but babying your engine for 2000 miles seems excessive.

Race Engine Break-In

Using a dynamometer for engine break-in is preferred. If you do not have access to a "Dyno," use the mileage break-in figures on the following table. The engine should first be run at idle for 30-45 minutes. During this time, be sure to check for leaks and keep an eye on the gauges. Ideally, for the first 100 miles (depending on use of new or used bearings), avoid operating the engine above 5000 rpm or under heavy load.

From 100-200 miles, gradually increase rpm, but never allow the engine to approach red line. Beyond 200 miles we recommend only short bursts of power approaching red line for 100 miles. At this point, change the break-in engine oil. The engine break-in period is now complete.


This is after a 4 hour break in period on the dyno below 5k rpm.

 

You guys are bad *** thanks!!

I also heard awhile back not to use synthetic oils, because its a rotary. Also isnt it wise to not get it tuned until it is broken in. Since tuning requires a dyno and actually getting on the hp. I was planning on tuning my power FC after it was broken in and everything.

My set up will include after the motor is installed: Stage 2 motor from rxstore.net street ported, greddy 2 row FMIC, Power FC and controller, Greddy CAI, Replacement of all vacuum hoses, Boost gauge, Short throw shifter, Struts and springs, Down pipe, Mid pipe, and apexi GT exhaust. I think thats it!

 

Search for threads about running synthetic, you will find that it is totally safe using modern synthetics. I don't know about not getting dynoed till the engine is broken in, but this is what I am doing. Once my car is finished I am shipping it to a shop for a preliminary tune on a Mustang dyno, so they can tune the range I will be in during break in and slightly above so it won't put a lot of stress on the engine during the tuning. After breakin (probably will do 1500 to 2000 miles) I will go back and get the tuning tweaked.