RE-Medy upgraded water pump - better flow, and HP
#151
Racecar - Formula 2000
Dave - I don't understand your claim about it cavitating at high RPM. how do you come to that conclusion? On my car (and on others that have tested this in real world situations), I can see coolant temps stay cooler at sustained high RPM compared to the stock water pump on stock pulley. High coolant temps at high RPM (on track) are one of the easily identified symptoms of cavitation.
The reason I got into this at all was that Dale stated that it pumped better AND gave more HP, and I couldn't understand that.
#154
I may have missed the part on the pulleys. So...is it better to use the stock pulleys or a underdrive set? Right now i have greddy pulleys and was wondering if i need to find me a stock set in order to use this water pump.
#160
Searching for 10th's
iTrader: (11)
http://www.mazmart.com/PartsList.aspx?id=27&n=NEW&m=5
Well worth the price.
Get the tstat too while you're at it - $40 if they have them.
#162
Make an assessment...
iTrader: (3)
Oh damn that's not bad. If you're talking about the water level sensor, I already have one of those, but the old one is stuck in my housing so I gotta replace that haha.
Damn I might go ahead and jump on this.
Damn I might go ahead and jump on this.
#164
Make an assessment...
iTrader: (3)
No, I know all that. I'm just saying I wasn't sure if he was talking about replacing the level sensor (which is on their page) or the thermostat, both of which I already have. I know it's only the water pump, no big deal. And the gasket comes with it, at least that's what the website says. Either way, I have one of those also. My level sensor got stuck in the neck and I have an extra one laying around somewhere. I just gotta work it out.
#168
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (8)
intermittant noise from RE-Medy water-pump ?
I finally got the FD to the track, and after a 20-minute session, we are hearing a slight metallic-rub that is coming from the cooling system, most prominent on the nut at 12-o'clock of the RE-Medy water-pump pulley (use used a long screw-driver touched various parts and placed our ears on the screw-driver handle).
After a 30-minute cool-down, it goes away.
It is INTERMITTANT with no set pattern, or cyclical rhythm.
We were thinking the pump impeller might get lose at high-temps, but then it would be cyclical noise, which it isn't ?
Any other ideas ?
Thanks,
:-) neil
FWIW, with the OLD water-pump, typically water temps would be closer to 220-F at the track; with the RE-Medy water-pump, it's been a steady 210-F running 14-lbs of boost on a mild-street port, with stock turbos 4x850cc injectors, and stock airbox, and SMIC.
After a 30-minute cool-down, it goes away.
It is INTERMITTANT with no set pattern, or cyclical rhythm.
We were thinking the pump impeller might get lose at high-temps, but then it would be cyclical noise, which it isn't ?
Any other ideas ?
Thanks,
:-) neil
FWIW, with the OLD water-pump, typically water temps would be closer to 220-F at the track; with the RE-Medy water-pump, it's been a steady 210-F running 14-lbs of boost on a mild-street port, with stock turbos 4x850cc injectors, and stock airbox, and SMIC.
#171
Make an assessment...
iTrader: (3)
Also, I have this water pump on now, and I'm usually hovering around 170*F with the fans on all the time. I don't have an undertray on right now, and I have a VMIC setup so my radiator is mounted a little differently. I'm also running mostly water and there should be a little water wetter still in the system. Just for information's sake.
#172
T O R Q U E!
iTrader: (24)
I installed the pump and testing has begun :)
My old pump with 120k miles has finally died. Started weeping from bottom of weep hole who knows how long ago. I knew it was going to die because the pulley had a little bit of wobble and was starting to eat my main drive belt.
Here's some pics I took of the new pump, my old pump
Here's some pics of the install, I replaced the thermostat & water pump housing/front cover gasket too
Yeah, those bolts are M6-1x30 mm (may be a little longer or shorter, not sure, 10MM socket will do the trick). Hope others have better luck than I did with them... two of my bolt holes in the w/p body ended up hosed (crossthread) and I had to retap. One of those holes was so bad that I had to drill out the hole, retap and use a bigger fastener. I had to enlarge the hole a tiny bit in the w/p housing the bolt goes thru. Not fun. The aluminum material is so soft, it's really easy to screw it up. Oh, another thing... be really careful when you remove/replace the alternator. When I pulled it out, it banged against my water thermosensor and BROKE it!!!
Don't you think 170 is a little too cold? I just had a chance to test mine out the past two days (got new thermostat w/o the jiggle pin, I drilled a hole instead) and my driving normally (putting around on the street, stop-n-go traffic) temps sit right around 180*F/82*C-185*F/85*C. Running approx 70/30 water/coolant mix, ambient temps are 65-75*F. Interesting thing I noticed is when I get on it (1-2-3 shift, full power, shift around 7k or so), the temps hardly change!! My mechanical gauge would swing up at least 5-10 degrees F (PFC would go up by 2-5*C) under the same conditions with the old pump/thermostat... I verified this with a dozen or so sprints... I will get the car to an autocross later this year or early next and report more results...
Oh, and the added hp business... can't tell a difference. I probably couldn't really tell even if I made or lost 10 hp.
Here's some pics I took of the new pump, my old pump
Here's some pics of the install, I replaced the thermostat & water pump housing/front cover gasket too
Also, I have this water pump on now, and I'm usually hovering around 170*F with the fans on all the time. I don't have an undertray on right now, and I have a VMIC setup so my radiator is mounted a little differently. I'm also running mostly water and there should be a little water wetter still in the system. Just for information's sake.
Oh, and the added hp business... can't tell a difference. I probably couldn't really tell even if I made or lost 10 hp.