RE-Medy upgraded water pump - better flow, and HP
When autoxing, I warm my car up first so that the water is 180 and the oil is 180.
At 170f, the thermostat isn't even open yet.
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,785
Likes: 145
From: Colorado Springs, CO
I drove the car yesterday without the fans on, and the temps didn't get above 170 as long as I was moving, and sometimes it wasn't even as high as 170.
Maybe I can put in a thermostat that opens earlier haha.
Maybe I can put in a thermostat that opens earlier haha.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: GA
You have a peculiar problem (No huge deal) in the FD world. You don't want a thermostat that opens any earlier; that could actually make matters worse. In racing, what we typically do is cover sections of the radiator/s when the optimum range is not being achieved on a system that is designed well for tough warm conditions. I will ask Mr Engman what he thinks and or recommends.
We will be out of pumps for at least 2 weeks by the way.
Paul.
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: GA
Okay. The thermostat is the gatekeeper. Unless something is wrong with yours (Leaking?) it will restrict the flow to the rad from the pump and continue to bypass until it sees the temps it is designed to achieve. Did you say you did something to your t-stat?
Paul.
Paul.
You could take one of the other bolts out and take it to Autozone and run it in their pitch/thread board to see what size it is. Just a thought. Or if you have a tap and die set, you can use the tool that comes in the kit to find that info too.
Also, I have this water pump on now, and I'm usually hovering around 170*F with the fans on all the time. I don't have an undertray on right now, and I have a VMIC setup so my radiator is mounted a little differently. I'm also running mostly water and there should be a little water wetter still in the system. Just for information's sake.
Also, I have this water pump on now, and I'm usually hovering around 170*F with the fans on all the time. I don't have an undertray on right now, and I have a VMIC setup so my radiator is mounted a little differently. I'm also running mostly water and there should be a little water wetter still in the system. Just for information's sake.
Turn off your fans. No need to run fans all the time. 170* is too low.
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4,785
Likes: 145
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Hi Speedjunkie,
You have a peculiar problem (No huge deal) in the FD world. You don't want a thermostat that opens any earlier; that could actually make matters worse. In racing, what we typically do is cover sections of the radiator/s when the optimum range is not being achieved on a system that is designed well for tough warm conditions. I will ask Mr Engman what he thinks and or recommends.
We will be out of pumps for at least 2 weeks by the way.
Paul.
You have a peculiar problem (No huge deal) in the FD world. You don't want a thermostat that opens any earlier; that could actually make matters worse. In racing, what we typically do is cover sections of the radiator/s when the optimum range is not being achieved on a system that is designed well for tough warm conditions. I will ask Mr Engman what he thinks and or recommends.
We will be out of pumps for at least 2 weeks by the way.
Paul.
Actually I noticed the other night that it was running around 165* while I was moving, and it would creep up to about 180* or 190* just sitting at a light or whatever, but that would be after about 5 to 10 minutes. My air temps were 13*C and my oil temps were about 140* to 150*F. It's been pretty cold here though.
EDIT: Disregard, I just noticed what jkstill said in post #176.
Please keep in mind though, I haven't tracked this car yet, so these temps are from just driving around on the street.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 289
Likes: 0
From: Burbank California
RX7 NONCONFORMIST
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Murphy, NC
I've had one of these pumps on my current engine and it has about 20k miles on it. The engine was built at maz mart by Rick.
The impeller was based on the impeller in the race 4 rotor water pump.
The impeller was based on the impeller in the race 4 rotor water pump.
Anyone thermo coat there water pump and thermosat housing? I was thinking to coat in a heat emitting (rather than ceramic retaining) coating and a low friction internal. Coaters dont seem to want to do the instide of the actual pump, unless I tear down ..anyone done this?
Anyone thermo coat there water pump and thermosat housing? I was thinking to coat in a heat emitting (rather than ceramic retaining) coating and a low friction internal. Coaters dont seem to want to do the instide of the actual pump, unless I tear down ..anyone done this?
Please let me know as I am very interested in this idea.
-EZ
can anyone give a statement regarding the discussion about undrive pulleys Yes/no?
Is a underdrive pulley needed regarding pump speeds or is it better to use a IDLER-pulley (or the stock airpump) to get the most out of the pump?
Is a underdrive pulley needed regarding pump speeds or is it better to use a IDLER-pulley (or the stock airpump) to get the most out of the pump?
To emit heat out. Water temp is higher than air temp in that zone of the compartment; besides black WP to match black intakes manifolds
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
From: GA
Lifespan?
A general point regarding lifespan. These REmedy water pumps have identical life expectancy as stock OEM (That you can no longer purchase in the US).
If you over-tension the belt you will cause bearing and seal damage. If you have insufficient anti-corrosive in your system you will reduce the life severely. If the air pump is removed, please ensure that a suitable tensioner has been installed.
Those who are not versed with cooling systems and have changed very few or no water pumps should call an experienced friend or seek a top notch rotary establishment to install. Improper air bleeding can result in a damaged engine.
If you EVER have a failure outside of warranty we will do a reduced cost rebuild with your impeller and another new pump.
This is the product of which we are most proud as we found something that we could truly make a difference, for the rotary community. Rick Engman installs every impeller. We love and appreciate all who have bought anything from us.
Paul.
If you over-tension the belt you will cause bearing and seal damage. If you have insufficient anti-corrosive in your system you will reduce the life severely. If the air pump is removed, please ensure that a suitable tensioner has been installed.
Those who are not versed with cooling systems and have changed very few or no water pumps should call an experienced friend or seek a top notch rotary establishment to install. Improper air bleeding can result in a damaged engine.
If you EVER have a failure outside of warranty we will do a reduced cost rebuild with your impeller and another new pump.
This is the product of which we are most proud as we found something that we could truly make a difference, for the rotary community. Rick Engman installs every impeller. We love and appreciate all who have bought anything from us.
Paul.