cloudz

iTrader: (1)

I got the car running again and will try to get a boost controller down the road, possible within a month or two. I encountered a problem though. My car is stalling out right after i start the car up. The idle won't hold and drops slowly until it stalls out. The airpump also stopped making a moo noise. I disconnected the moo noise and the car didn't stall, connected it and then it stalled. Is it possible that my airpump is broken and caused me to stall?

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Try adjusting your idle higher. Theres a screw on the throttle body. Check the error codes. You may have forgotten to put a sensor back on. Probably the the TPS or the IAC.

Sephek

iTrader: (20)

Sort of unrelated but I remember that same exact symptom happening when my AC stopped working. For some reason when my AC engaged it would spin the opposite way and make my car stall, I removed the AC fuse and drove around without it for a while until I replaced the compressor later on. Also removing that fuse may disable the airpump if I remember correctly.

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

I tried that and the idle is still being weird. It still stalls out sometimes but not as much. My belts were really loose so it made some whining noise so i tighted it. My power steering pump seams to be making a weird noise when i turn my wheel maximum or rev. Can that be related to it? Would i need an entirely new power steering pump or should I try to flush out the system?

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

Okay so I flushed the power steering fluid out and it still idles like crap and stalls out at times. Airpump is completely dead. I'm starting to think maybe a solenoid went out? I'm having weird transition in powers. When the turbo comes on its really rough and sudden. I was also wondering, I figured out my oil leak and its because of one of the omp oil lines. Can it be that since my cars been running so long with one leaking omp line, that one of my rotor is dead? So im running on one only. I forgot to mention this happened after I boosted and it spiked to 15k. I let the gas go right away and yeah went downhill from there.

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

hmm ... I agree with Barban. Check the electrical connection to the IAC and the TPS.

I'm a bit hesitant to recommend opening the idle adjustment screw though. This will probably do the trick but I think that something else has changed ... time to triple check all of your connections. The power steering has nothing to do with it. ... power steering noise at the wheel stops is normal. As for when you're revving the engine I'd have to hear it.

Back to the problem. It sounds like you have a clue there with your air pump. Maybe the ACV isn't connected? Just a guess, I'd need to read up on how this works a bit.

Turning up the screw under (don't mess with the ones near the throttle linkage or near the TPS) will probably help but I think that it's a cover up for the real issue. Could be wrong but I don't think that that screw would move on it's own.

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

I wasnt able to fix the problem. Today was a terrible day... My engline blew. I took off everything and I found a leaking vacuum hose and fixed that. The car ran fine. I took it to 5krpm and it just blew... I think its running on one rotor now. I believe its the rotor that had the broken omp line. I premix it but I guess it wasn't enough =(. Do you guys know what I can do besides getting a reman or rebuilding it and where I can do that?

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

Make sure your MAP sensor is hooked up, and verify you're not in limp mode.

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

For the price of a reman from ray @ malloy you might as well go reman. For a shop to rebuild with new housings and seals and shipping for a few hundred bucks more you can get a BRAND NEW motor.

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

I checked and my map sensor is hooked up. How much is a reman from ray? I emailed him but no reply yet? Barban do you have any other things I can check?

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

I did a compression check and I had no readings on the rear rotor. The front rotor seems to be working properly though. Any Ideas?

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

No compression on rear rotor=rebuild.