cloudz

iTrader: (1)

Hm I finally bought the fpd, but installing it is hard... How did you get the harness out of the way? I had a buddy hold it up while I tried to get the phillip screws off the fpd. I think I might have stripped the screw too. I was also wondering where the charcoal canister hose was in the vacuum diagram picture. I can't seem to find it. I can't seem to find the turbo actuator either... I tried looking under the car. Prom is in a week and i'd really like to take my fd for it haha =). I can't believe its been not running for almost 4-5 months.

Mrmatt3465

iTrader: (10)

The FPD has 2 philips screws holding it in place as well as a tight fit O ring. Lots of pressure and you can get that screw out If its REALLY giving you hell then grab it with a vice grip. Don't crush the head of the screw with it but grab it hard enough. You'll get it. As for the turbo control actuator, look at your exhaust manifold. The actuator is right there once you see it.

Good luck man!
Matt

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

The charcoal canister line is in orange in this image that was attached earlier in the thread.


I recommend a ratchet with a screwdriver socket to break the FPD screws loose. See the attached pic. This allows one hand to push the ratchet into the screw (with a lot of force) while the other carefully turns the ratchet handle. Put another way the ratchet is such a force multiplier that you can focus on holding the philips tip into the screw and not on turning the screw.

Be sure to use a few drops of motor oil to lubricate the o-ring on the new FPD. This will ensure a smooth leak free installation.

supraturbo1987

iTrader: (4)

I just replaced my FPD yesterday with my primary fuel rail out of the car. I would suggest when you get those screws out (use the vice grips as MRMATT suggested) you replace the screws with some bolt with the proper thread pitch and an 8mm head. Just take the two screws to lowe's where you can find out exactly what they are and buy two bolts so you can use your 1/4' ratchet wth an 8mm socket to install them...BTW, I had to use vise grips WITH the FPD out of the car...they are tight. DON'T forget to put some oil on that FPD's o ring before installing. Also, just replace the two rubber fuels lines there while you are att it with some new fuel line...just a good peace of mind for 5 bucks.

Trev

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

That's a good idea ... just make sure that you ask for high pressure or fuel injection hose. The old school stuff for carburetor equipped cars won't be able to handle the high pressure of the fuel injection system.

I know that we've been telling you to use oil when you put stuff back together but I'll say it once more. When you slip the new hose(s) back on ... or even the old ones, a quick shot of penetrating oil inside of the hose and on the FPD, etc. nipple makes it so much easier.

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

For the charcoal canister is it the can looking thing in front where the bumper is? I can't seem to find the hose connected to it. I'll try to finish the fpd tomorrow. Me and my friends ran home from school at lunch and pushed the car to my auto class. hopefully I get a lot of progress this week.

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

LOL ... it's under the car, behind the drivers seat, between the driver's rear tire and the fuel tank ... sort of. It's about the size of a coffee can.

The little black tank that bolts on with the throttle elbow's two bottom nuts connects to the charcoal canister to catch raw gas before the vapor is pulled into the engine. You know the three fuel lines between the brake booster and the oil filter? One of them connects to the canister that I just described near the gas tank. just follow them ... one goes into the fuel rail, one returns from the fuel rail and the other is the vapor line from the canister.

As for that can near the bumper ... I think that you've found the A/C drier.

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

LOLOL no wonder... I was looking at that ac drier for quite some time. It was the closet thing to the can. I think I know what you mean now. That charcoal canister hose can be replaced by one of my vacuum hoses right? It doesn't need to be a fuel hose?

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

I would use fuel hose if possible. It can be the low pressure (cheap) stuff though as the line is at or near atmospheric pressure. You may have to use vacuum hose for the smaller (diameter) pieces like where it connects to the UIM but this is fine.

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

Okay So I changed the downpipe and fpd. A couple more hoses and then i'll get to put everything back together! My downpipe stud was really messed up in one of the holes so I had to use a bolt to secure the downpipe to turbo, is that bad? Do you know where I can buy stanless omp lines or regular ones within a day. I need to have the car running by saturday for prom.

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

Oh and for the fuel hose that are connected to the fpd, do you think a same length one from autozone or winchester would be fine as long as its high pressure or fuel injection? or would I need a mazda one

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

I don't think that the bolt on the DP will hurt anything but it will probably back out on its own.

Unless you find someone local with a set of OMP lines I don't see that happening in time for prom. That's a tough one with the timeline that you have.

Yep, autozone or winchester is fine as long as the line is for fuel injection.

Don't forget to step back and run through what you just did in your mind. The engine in this car is complicated and will bite you in the &^#&( if you rush.

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

So I worked all day yesterday and got the car running, but it's making some weird noise. It sounds like it may be the mooing from the airpump because of my new intake, but I am not sure. The sound only comes on at around 2k rpm and goes away at around 3k rpm. The car seems to drive normally and boost, but I didn't boost it in every gear. Can you guys watch the video clip of my car to help me diagnose what is wrong? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88AUP...1&feature=plcp
If it was the airpump the sound would stay constant right? This only makes it within those rpm levels or when I let go of my gas. I hope it is the airpump. Everything was put on correctly, just some screws went missing or a different one was used. There seems to be some smoking from the exhaust manifold area too, but It may be from my coolant/water overspill when I was topping it off. After prom I'm going to take everything off and buy new omp lines and all the correct screws. Thanks so much, I really appreciate it. I learned so much doing this hose job.

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

Congrats on getting it together!

The intake looks like it doesn't muffle the air-pump at all. That might be normal. Anyone with a similar air pump to intake setup care to chime in?

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

thanks! you and so many other forum members helped me so much and I really appreciate that. oh I also noticed when I was putting my key to acc my fan turned on and it seems to be rubbing on something. is there a good angle I can go at to look at tjw fan without taking anything off?

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

LOLOl so it turned out I had a rag hanging from my battery tray into the fan so thats fixed. I disconnected the airpump and the weird noise is gone. I'll probably connect that back on because I heard it leads to clogged cats. So my cars running pretty strong and idles good. It does however sounds like its ported because the idle drops down so low sometimes like to the point of almost stalling out, but then it goes back up. Any ideas on what thats about? I also have a problem with my y pip to cross over tube coupler. When I boost it keeps coming off so I get 0 psi. If I retighten i'll be able to boost properly, but it'll eventually come off again. Is there anyway I can keep it secure? I made sure the clamps were super tight, but somehow it manages to pop off.

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

The air pump is probably what's affecting idle. It's a critical part of maintaining the proper AFR at idle.

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

Oh I see, so are the major downsides just the weird idle and clogged cat? It noticed it stops coming on at around 3.8-4k so is it really needed for those low rpms? I heard it just puts air in to help the cat at those rpm or something like that. I'm also getting a fuel smell, is that from my new downpipe since there's no cat inside? Or is fuel smell bad and I should look into it. I replaced the fpd and the o rings in the primary fuel rail so Im not sure why it would leak.

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

You shouldn't have any fuel smell in the engine bay or otherwise. Chances are very good that something is leaking gas. Fuel smell is bad, Bad, BAD ... here's why.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/every-fd-owner-needs-read-engine-fires-976059/

You can jumper the fuel pump on by using the diagnostic connector. Do this while the engine isn't running to prove that it's not an exhaust smell but actually leaking fuel.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/how-troubleshoot-your-fuel-system-871361/

Here's another idea though I've never had to go this far.
https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...&postcount=255

revolutionz_fd

iTrader: (3)

nicely done

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

The airpump is making the mooing noise, that much is clear. It definitely is important to a smooth idle and low speed emissions. Turning it off likely causes the fuel smell, because the cat doesn't do much on cold start-up.

You can get that airpump hose from Ray Crowe at Mallow for like $20 shipped, iirc. I had to replace mine recently, don't bother trying to find some other hose that fits, I gave that up quickly.
I'm not completely sure the stock airpump hose will fit that intake.
You need to plug that extra port on your intake with a table leg caster. You can get them at home depot for cheap.
And, you might as well vent your BOV to atmosphere and plug the other nipple, too.

As for the y-pipe coupler. Make sure both the crossover and ypipe mating surfaces are completely clean and dry. Use alcohol and or a brillo pad/green-side-of-the-sponge. NO SOAP. Make sure the coupler is clean. Those are like $50 from Ray. Or, Goodies Speed Shop in San Jose has silicone couplers. For my money, nothing is better than a new stock rubber coupler.
Or, you could get an efini y-pipe. That's what most people do in the end.

Keep up the good work

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

Thanks James for the links. I will look into it this weekend. I hope it is just an exhaust smell since the precat is out, but it really is a strong odor so i'll jump the pump just to be safe.
Barban I got the hoses connected to the intake and the bov is vented. Does it matter if the hose from the acv(i'm guessing that's where it connects to) to intake is a little bent/kinked but not really? I'll plug back the airpump to see if the fuel smell is from that. I need to do some research on how to muffle that as well. I think i ran across a couple threads about it so i'll go dig around for it. Do you know where i can purchase rubber nipples or something to cover off the bov and crv ports on the intake? I managed to get the coupler to stay, well for the mean time until i can find an efini y pipe.

OOOh, I think I am also going to retake everything apart again and redo it correctly this time. I noticed that my omp line was snapped when I was in there but I still put everything back so I could go to prom with it. I did premix though so hopefully not too much damage was done. I bought new omp lines so those will be going in soon. Most of the screws/bolts I used were bsed. I just tested everything i had for something similar or could thread in. Should I buy all new screws from ray or am I fine since everything is running and my problem isnt with how things are mounted?

Narfle

iTrader: (16)

No, it shouldn't matter, but I'm not convinced you're talking about the ACV.

I got mine from Home Depot for less than $3, I want to say they are 1&1/4" chair/table casters. I think they're in the hardware section or home furnishings. Worst case, I have extra for you.

cloudz

iTrader: (1)

I taped the open hoses with eletrical tape for temporary. I'll try to stop by home depot this week. Been busy with school haha can't wait until summer vacation is here! I bought the y pipe and installed and my boost was running really good. It doesn't leak or not boost anymore. I was also changing my belts and I took off the pulley next to the powersteering pulley. I think the screw for the tensioner part is messed up it wont back in. Do you think home depot or any auto part store might carry it? I don't really want to buy a replacement one from mazda because that will be a lot of money. I also noticed sometimes my boost would jump to 14-15 psi and stays there until I shift or just drops back to 10. This would be boost spike and not creep right? Do you think I should get a boost controller? I've been also thinking about porting my wastegate lately, but I'm not sure yet. Have you you or james had an experience with that yet?

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

It's possible. Just match the bolt diameter in mm ... I'm guessing 8mm; then match the thread pitch in mm ... probably 1.25mm. Also, look and see how important length is. A longer or shorter bolt may be OK but it also may need to be exact. Lastly, there are grades of bolts. I'm guessing grade 8.8.





You've added enough in the bolt-on-mod department that it's time for a boost controller. As long as the stock cat is on the car you don't need to port the waste gate. Keep an eye on the boost in the mean time. 15PSI is a bit dangerous. You might also consider looking around for a mod that controls the boost with needle valves. If you can't find it, let me know. It might be called a home depo boost controller because the valves come from a hardware store ... basically. Bottom line this would be a budget friendly way to dial you boost down until you have the $$$ to do it better.

Take your time researching the boost controller. There are a lot of options. Personally I would pick up a PFC and a datalogit. You'll be able to dial your boost in and be ready to change the fuel maps as needed ... more $$$ but money well spent.