Bob H

iTrader: (10)

Back up - I am NOT happy this bar didn't come with instructions - what a royal pain in the *** and I have ALL the interior out of the car.
First, how about some direction on the bottom plates - also, why are they flat and the top plates not flat? They never pull completely together,(and tightening them down cracks the powdercoating).
I have a straight car, no accidents and it aligns with no probs,(in the middle of the adjustment range). So my car isn't bent - but the holes on the bottom just aren't lining up for the bolts. I have flipped the bottom plate, turned it every which way, but there is still some misalignment. Finally got the correct orientation - but I its still not a straight shot as 7racer had. I was a mechanic for a living before I became a pilot and still do lots of custom fab work on my own.
Last, I'm not thrilled with what is shown in my second picture in post #96 - that the corner digs down into the metal. Why not re-flare it back near flat so its not a pressure point.
I'm ranting because there is virtually no instructions/directions. I'm going to call Larry to see if I can get further because I'm not about to drill 15 holes in the car to get it to work.
Also, why were the bolts provided in my bar for the diagonal the 12 point bolts which stick out right near your head and not the recessesed Allen like 7 racer? I also think I might be missing some hardware. For as beautifully made as the bar is - the installation is a major bitch w/o directions esp. on the floor portion.
-Bob

Rxmfn7

iTrader: (4)

Im sorry to hear that you're having so many problems. It has been a few years since I had installed my bar, but I dont believe I had instructions either. FWIW, I had just bolted the ENTIRE bar into place and tightened everything down. And then when that was finished, I drilled the holes in the floor whereever the plates were resting, and then throw bolts down through, and installed the lower backing plate. I did so some measurements to make sure it was centered, may have had to tap it one way or the other slightly, but where it rests is basically where it rests.

Bob H

iTrader: (10)

I have everything bolted and tightened - for the same reason, I wanted the holes to be in the right spot. The pass side is a little further from the "wall" than the pass side,(talking about inside the car at the base) I did move things just a tad - but not much, you can't really move it that much.
Anyone have either The Race Shops or Larry's #? I can't find it anywhere.

4CN A1R

iTrader: (6)

very tasteful. your car is as well, i like it

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Since coming back on here, this thread was one that I was watching.. My bar is still in its wrapper and going to install it when I'm changing out my carpet. I guess I'll find out what Bob H is talking about.. I'll post my experience.

neofreak

I have this problem too -- I bolted it down to the strut tops and lined it up as best I could, but it's not completely centered. It's been a few months since I've looked at it, and I didn't bother to bolt it down to the floor for this reason. One day I'll revisit and see if I can get it perfectly aligned before I bolt it down completely.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Bob,

I finally had a chance to test fit the roll bar and noticed what you were talking about.

During the test fit, I noticed it was hard to line everything up due to this portion of the feet. I'm wondering when all are bolted up and tightened, maybe it will flatten out???

Anyhow, I have to change out my struts and springs so, I'm not going to finish installing this... But one thing is that I'm going to bolt up everything else before I drill the holes.

Bob H

iTrader: (10)

I should follow up on my post now that I've installed it completely,(and pulled it again to install carpet/etc..)

The holes do eventually line up. The bottom plates go in only one orientation - with another orientation being VERY close, but not quite. Having two people makes a big difference.
A few notes:
My comment about the diag bar's bolt protruding right behind your head - not valid. It IS recessed. Its just a very tight fit and I was up on the lip. Even the thin wall socket I have,(12 point), is too thick. Not sure what I'll do, going to try a mechanic friends box to see if he has one that will get down in there. If I can't, I'll go buy an allen bolt.
The bottom plates:
I sorta understand the bend in the top plate - but it NEEDS another bend back to the same plane since it digs down into the metal creating a stress point. We tightened the snot out of the bolts to pull it as flat as they would go. The plate is very thick metal - it hardly bends at all - a good thing, but again, why is the lower plate not the same or at least similar? Would make figuring out the orientation easy!
It WILL pull the seams behind the plates - so expect to possibly need to seal them back up.
You MUST have everything bolted up and at least finger tight before you drill/install the bottom bolts - otherwise its going to be off and very difficult if not impossible to fully install properly. This includes having the shocks in so that plate is located properly.

My conclusion:
How about some basic directions or at least a diagram!? That is the single biggest drawback to this setup. It would be nice to know what bolt goes where, as some can go in different spots,(not many).
The fabrication of the roll bar is beyond top notch and I don't think others on the market come close.
The powder coating on the bars themselves is very thin - scratches very easy. The plates were thicker, but they cracked when I tightened things down - so its all a balancing act. I'd want thicker on the bars themselves. Fortunately the bottom plates are hidden by the carpet when installed,(if cut properly!).
You need to have the bins and the side plastics installed before you install the bar,(if you had all of it out to test fit/drill holes).
The discussion about using longer bolts initially is a good one - draw the plate together, then you can use the smaller bolts. After the first "pull-together", you can use the small bolts from the start.
The notes about trimming the rear plastic are good - measure 5 times, cut once! Remember if you want the strut tower covers on - cut them first, fit them over the bar and install before you put the bar in. Once everything is bolted down, good luck trying to get those covers on,(assuming you are trying for 1 hole, not a slot).
If I got another FD and needed a roll bar - this is still my first choice. Its just a pain in the *** to install esp. lacking any guidance/instructions. Plus - how am I to know if I was missing any bolts/etc.. in case I don't install the bar right away?

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

I agree with you... Without seeing this thread, it would be bit more complicated. I also wondered what bolts are what and if I was missing anything. Also the template for making the hole for the strut tower cover was bit confusing.. At first, I wasn't sure how it was going to help, but once the strut tower brace was on, i knew what to do.

Hopefully by end of next week, I'll have all my suspensions in place (coilovers, tripoint sways, etc) and bolt all up and drill the holes. Until then, car's just going up and down my drive way

jstrunk

iTrader: (10)

for the covers in the rear, grommets would give it a more OEM look... probably what i'll do if i get a roll bar anytime.

Bob H

iTrader: (10)

Speaking of which - the orange paper cut-out that is provided - has a circle and a long part - I assume? that is a template for cutting the strut tower covers? How in the world does it line up? Can someone take a picture?

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Bob, it lines up after you put the rear strut brace, like the cut out on the harness mounting points, than it will line up to show where you need to cut the holes on the cover.

I'll try to take a picture for ya

Bob H

iTrader: (10)

Ah ha! I see. Makes much more sense. To put the strut tower mounts in, mount the cross bar, then put the strut cover on - then measure/cut.
-bob

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Yep! You got it Bob!

I didn't know what to do with the template until I put the cross bar on and saw the mounting holes

Good luck! I'm hoping to put it all together in next week or two. I'll post some pics here or on my build thread (https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-292/my-rx7-rotary-projects-formerly-my-blk-base-build-up-615499/page9/).

Phil

510_rx7

iTrader: (3)

where can i get this roll bar?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

I don't think Larry is making them any longer. You'll probably have to find a used one or one that was never installed.

7racer

and make sure you slide them onto the bar before you put everything together!

The fit is so tight that it is a PITA to take back apart...at least it was for me.

I'm not sure how herblenny did it so many times

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

7racer,

I haven't cut the covers yet. But good to know they fit tight and its PITA to take it apart. I figure so and hence I wanted to take sure I install the new coilovers before I bolt and install everything.

Thanks again for this thread.

KaiFD3S

iTrader: (37)

2 things that was a PITA was those covers and the cross bar, mine would not line up to the bolts and it was too hard to move it by hand so I used some ratcheting tie downs to move it into place...LOL...

ptrhahn

iTrader: (9)

It's a crying shame that/if Larry doesn't make these anymore, particularly because I think he's still in the fab business, and they are built to order anyway. You've gotta wonder why not?

One of the nicest stateside products ever made for these cars.