The plastic cover will slide up the tube and out of the way even if you use a 1.750 hole saw.

 

Looks great, can't wait to get mine!

 

ALMOST DONE! Just need the shorter bolts from Larry to bolt it to the floor board. Otherwise all the bolts are in.

It's TIGHT. Like I said before. Test fit everything and get all of your holes drilled and then tighten everything down. Otherwise things will not quite line up like you had it before.

here are a couple more things. When you put the plastic strut tower covers back on, they don't clear the big 12pt bolt head that bolts the harness plate to the harness bar.

here you can see the white stress line from it pushing on the bolt head.


I just took a dremel to it. I know it might weaken this area but it seems to make it fit the best (this is the rear most snap in point):


Now just some tools that you will need:
You will need a 3/8th hex wrench to screw in the bolts for the rear diagonal bar:


You will also need a 1/2" 12pt socket to tighten the bolts for the rear harness bar:


And finally a 3/8" 12pt socket to tighten the bolts for the two connecting bars (12pt bolts are pretty cool! Way overkill

 

So here are some pics with everything bolted in and the strut tower covers on:




Here is a pic with the rear hatch divider in (see it fits )




and one with the cargo cover on clipped into the attachment points. NICE!

 

Cool look with hatch closed:

 

Ok the one thing I FUBAR'd a little was the holes thru the strut tower covers. Eh....that's what you get for being the first to post on this I guess. Anyways here you can see that the cover sits flushed but the hole could stand to be alittle more to the left and forward. Note this was made with a 2" diameter saw.

**just a note...I could never get the covers to sit flush as the adjustment **** for my coilover is too tall




The passengers side, I didn't do as well of a job on. See how it doesn't sit as flush as the driver's side. The hole needs to be more forward.

 

Oh and if you need a nut to tighten down the harness plate, the nut size is M10 1.25 pitch

 

Great JOB!! Looks great!

 

haha i had to get the same type of nuts and i have stock shocks. the new nuts fixed that issue. and i had to dremel the plastic too in same spots. easy. great pics.

 

no problem...that's why I like to see more write-ups...

you never know who it will help.

 

My comment is in bold.

 

Just a quick update:

I drove the car today for the first time and to my surprise no noticable increase in road noise! It actually might have decrease some of the rattles!

Also, I ordered a camera mount and test mounted it.

This was one of the ones damian mentioned in an old post and mounted it on the rear diagonal.
I'll post some pics when my digital camera gets back from repairs (dropped it and cracked the LCD during the last vacation )
http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant...gory_Code=IOPP

 

How hard would it be to swap that cross bar from got left to right to right to left. I have a rhd car and would jump on this if that bar went the other way.Or does it really matter for racing? You guys tell me.

Thanks

 

You can't swap the rear diagonal as it has prewelded holes. However, it can be removed for a cleaner look. Also, the diagonal is such that it doesn't interfer with rear seat travel at all so I would think it would fit and look fine in a RHD car.

 

ok I got my digital camera back from repairs and wanted to take some final pics. I ended buying a sparco 4pt harness from discoveryparts.com (the one that damian mentioned in his thread). The only thing I didn't like about this harness is that the two lap belt ends aren't removable. That is you can't put in the snap on ends like you can for the shoulder portion of the harness. I am just going to leave them bolted in and tuck them behind the seat. I can remove the shoulder ones though and store them in the bins or what not....

oh, and a little note...if you are going to hook the eye bolts for the passenger side, do it before you put on the rear diagonal as the eye bolts are too tall and hit the diagonal preventing you from screwing it in.

here is the shoulder harness mounted to the eye bolts. I also bought a camera mount that seems to be pretty nice. The only thing is the bolts are LONG....



cam lock:



snap on ends thru ring bolts:



where I mounted the lap belts:

 

looks awesome. i'm gonna do it this weekend but i have a submarine belt (5th point on harness) and don't know where/how to attach it yet. f-body and mustang shops sell a brace that connects to the two front bolts that hold down the seat which is used for the sub belt; wonder if any place sells that for the FD.

 

looks good...

 

that would be nice....maybe Larry could fab one

but in reality I don't there is a piece like that. I remember reading damian's thread that he had to drill a hole, IIRC

 

The proper way is for the anti-submarine belt to extend through the seat bottom and to the floor. Extending the belt out over the front of the seat is commonly done and is wrong and unsafe everytime. If you're going to extend it out over the seat there's no point in even using the anti-sub strap. The purpose of the fifth strap is to prevent the buckle from riding up into your abdomen which is what would happen if it weren't there and the shoulder straps are loaded in a crash. Putting the anti-submarine strap out over the front of the seat doesn't allow it to do it's job and also pulls the buckle away from the body if you try to tension it. Stupid every single time. Everyone will chime in about extending it over the seat with "that's how I've done and so and so has done it, and I've seen dozens of cars that have done it yadda, yadda, yadda" and they're all wrong. You can do anything improperly when you don't know better.

If you can't extend the anti-sub strap through the seat so that it pulls straight down on the buckle the best thing to do is get 6 point belts. This way the two sub straps can mount to the same location the lap belts do. The sub straps lay in the seat and you sit on top of them. They then extend under your thighs and straight up into the latch, ensuring it cannot ride up your abdomen. This creates no force trying to pull the latch away from your body since the load path is once again straight down rather than out in front of your body.

 

where do i goto get one myself? will be awsome!

 

it is tempting. I hope i can have one on my car

 

Oh yea....what Damon said is true...I should have known better

You can get the rollbar and harness from Larry at The Raceshop...check the group buy section for his contact info.

here's just a pic I took (post whoring )

 

i got pics of my bar; not installed yet.
6 point bar with seat back bar.

http://207.127.219.37/rx7mods.htm#bottom

hope to install tomorrow.

 

Just wondering how much this cost you ? I have a custom made roll bar that blows the doors off this one. I payed 1k to have it made, power coated and welded to the car.

I noticed a huge diffrence with the bar, it really made the car nice and stiff and I love it. It feels like driving a kart . I will post some photos tonight .

I am in the process of getting the best padding I can find for the bar, and I recommend the same for yourself.

http://www.bethania-garage.com/padding.htm

I also have a 99 wing, and with the roll bar and padding I know my rear visibility out the rear window will be almost useless. Just think a little about what would happen if you got in a accident with a unpadded roll bar, your head will be toast.

 

i searched but i can't find a thread by him about this. do you have the link?