ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

I recently just got my motor together and running and It seems as if a coolant seal has failed. Not sure if I pinched it during the install or what. but It is deffinatley drinking coolant w/ no external leaks.

The car starts just fine everytime hot or cold. however on cold starts the idle will be at about 700-850rpm instead of the regular 950 that it's set to. until it'swarmed up. It is currently very cold here in Oklahoma (30s and below)

So the car is not overheating whatsoever. the hottest it would reach is 89 C then cycles back down to 85-86. I rented a pressure tester from autozone but no one has the adapter for this car.


I've also tried the champane bubble test and I get a few bubbles ones and a while until the thermostat opens. then there are a few more but it isn't constant. When open the throttle a bit I'm expecting the bubles to come up. but that's not the case. Instead I get a few bubble after I let go of the throttle and the rpms drop. And the thing that really makes me think it's a water seal is that after I let off the throttle and afew bubbles come up, The coolant that comes with those bubbles is kinda murky. So i'm under the impression there are exhaust gasses entering the coolant.

I'm gonna try and get it to a shop today to confirm the cooling system isn't holding preassure and also try a hydrocarbon test if possible/ nessisary.

Anyway like the title says,I havea quick rebuild question. All the internal seals and gaskets are new oem with less than 1000 miles on them. After I open the motor should I go ahead and replace all the soft seals? or would it be ok to just replace all the coolant seals?(provided everything specs out ok)

I'm aiming for a quick and easy rebuild with minimal partsneeding to be replaced.

thoughts and opinoins please...

djseven

iTrader: (56)

It is possible you still havent burped the system all the way. If will take near 2 full gallons of coolant/water to fill up the system with a stock radiator. A little more with a koyo/fluidyne. I would keep filling it and see what happens. Is it smoking badly?

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

I was thinking It just wasn't fully burped but I'm beginning to think otherwise. It doesn't smoke excessively but it is very cold and it does smoke some untill warmed up. I'm not having ANY hot start trouble. But on cold start It the exhuast does spit out something onto the ground. It doesn't smell sweet. so I was hoping it's just unburnt fuel. smells very strong and makes my eyes water. To give you an idea of how the car is running My ait are generally neg 5 to 9 degrees. sensor is relocated just after intercooler. I see those temps even while driving without an undertray.

MrNizzles

iTrader: (5)

I'm curious to know, if the OP does crack open his engine, then that automatically means ALL rubber seals (coolant, oil, what else) must be replaced again? If this is true, why? Are the seals damaged in some way from the tear down process?

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

Well I just took another wiff on a cold start. And unfortunately I wasn't greeted with the raw fuel smell. instead It was the sweet smell of defeat (coolant). back to the rebuild question. Can I get away with just replacing the old coolant seals?
I'd like to keep the downtime minimal( two weeks max) including waiting on parts to arrive.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

Call atkins and just order the water seal kit. It includes all the water seals(ones on the engine studs also). Everything should be reuseable if you only have a 1k miles on the build.

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

It's not uncommon for a new rebuild to smoke for a little while. Do you know for sure it's eating coolant (i.e. do you have to fill it back up after having it run for a bit). If not, I would keep driving it for a few more hundred miles and see if the smoke sticks around.

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

djseven. I haven't been to there page in a while. do they use oem seals? or their own version?

Mahjik. The fact that new rebuild do smoke for a while is the main reason I thought everything was ok and the cooling system just wasn't fulling burped of air. however the water level in the fill cap is 4-5 inches low everytime I open the cap to have a look after running up to temp. So i am in fact drinking coolant. It really sux cause the motor runs sooooooooo smooth, I just hate to open it up lol. In any case I pulled the spark plugs and both the front and rear had a nice green tint to them. hmmmmm I wander what that might be . I'm draing the fluids now and hope to have the motor out by this weekend.

On A side not I used vasaline to hold the water seals in place this time instead of hylomar. I've read the this was ok, And others have said it causes the rubber seals to expand. Not sure if this has contributed to the problem, but I won't give it a chance next time around. I'm stocking up on the blue stuff!!

I'll keep you guys updated on how it goes. The only thing I'm nervous about is my irons. just hope they haven't cracked anywhere near the water seal grooves or warped somehow.

Oh well, time to get dirty again...

djseven

iTrader: (56)

They use a stock seals as far as I know. A fresh rebuild will usually smokd 15-30 minutes max in most cases. Once you drive for about 10-15 miles it will usually be completely cleared up.

I hate you have to pull the motor just after installing it.

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

yea that's about how long it smokes.

I hate the idea Of pulling such a "young" motor too. I'm so ready to get this thing broke in so I can see what this turbo can do.

I'm aiming to get this thing on the road again, or at least started within 2 weeks. we'll see how it goes.

djseven

iTrader: (56)

I didnt realize you have a single setup, I dont feel so bad for you know. Tear down and rebuild is so much simpler on a single setup.

ProjectD

iTrader: (15)

yup yup