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Quick Latch hood pins

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Old 03-04-20, 04:58 PM
  #76  
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Are you guys using the OEM latch, along with the quick latch hood pins?
Old 03-05-20, 12:52 PM
  #77  
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^I am
Old 03-05-20, 01:33 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by KNONFS
Are you guys using the OEM latch, along with the quick latch hood pins?
I was using the latch only initially with my CF hood and it was very floppy at highway speeds and began to hairline crack around the latch, after add the quick latches I had no more issues.

If I was mounting a new hood with no factory latch I'd use four of the small quick latches, two along the front end of the bumper and one behind each headlight.
Old 03-05-20, 05:48 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
^I am
Thanks for the feedback!

Originally Posted by Molotovman
I was using the latch only initially with my CF hood and it was very floppy at highway speeds and began to hairline crack around the latch, after add the quick latches I had no more issues.

If I was mounting a new hood with no factory latch I'd use four of the small quick latches, two along the front end of the bumper and one behind each headlight.
Thanks for the feedback!

I had a shine hood on my fc, with the OEM latch, and the hood started to crack after a couple of years. I've been contemplating removing the oem latch for quite some time...
Old 03-06-20, 11:18 AM
  #80  
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The people at quik-latch strongly advise against using the QL-25, alone, to secure the hood. When using the QL-25 they say to also keep using the standard latch. The QL-38, on the other hand, can secure the hood without the factory latch.
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Old 03-06-20, 11:53 AM
  #81  
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EVERY SINGLE PERSON I have ever known that has removed their OEM hood latch and gone to hood pins has had their hood fly up and smash on the roof of the car. There's way too many things that can cause you to forget if the hood is latched or not.

Don't do it. The damage caused by a hood flying up at speed is bad, and there's also the possibility of getting into a major accident when suddenly you can't see.

OEM hood latches are designed the way they are for a very good reason.

Dale
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Old 03-06-20, 07:56 PM
  #82  
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I am as well. My striker bar has a worn groove where the latch catches it. Don't ask me how it happened, I bought it like that. Movement at high speeds was slight, but annoying. Zero movement now.
Old 03-11-20, 10:32 AM
  #83  
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CA






The QL25 barely reached, but worked on my authentic RE hood with the latch that came with it.
Old 04-09-20, 06:23 PM
  #84  
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I finally got the courage to tackle this a few days ago. I ordered the next size up QL38 which is probably what I should have ordered the first time since they are recommended for hood pins unlike the QL25 that I originally ordered.
https://www.quik-latch.com/QL-38-Series-Hood-Pins.html

The QL38 are larger diameter so I had to enlarge the hole from when I attempted to install the QL25 by drilling. I did some research and learned about the 561 router bit on the Dremel rotary tool. I charged the battery to my Dremel and slowly enlarged the hole. Here's a crappy video of me slowly enlarging the hole diameter in case anyone needs ideas of their own. The hole didn't wind up being a clean circle but a removed a bit of material at a time and test fit the QL38 until it was bit enough and round enough to install.

Definitely use lots of painters tape to protect the hood. Widening the hole in this manner took a long time and it slipped a few times as my hands got tired.

I guess we can call this a success
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Old 04-09-20, 06:54 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by gracer7-rx7
I finally got the courage to tackle this a few days ago. I ordered the next size up QL38 which is probably what I should have ordered the first time since they are recommended for hood pins unlike the QL25 that I originally ordered.
https://www.quik-latch.com/QL-38-Series-Hood-Pins.html

The QL38 are larger diameter so I had to enlarge the hole from when I attempted to install the QL25 by drilling. I did some research and learned about the 561 router bit on the Dremel rotary tool. I charged the battery to my Dremel and slowly enlarged the hole. Here's a crappy video of me slowly enlarging the hole diameter in case anyone needs ideas of their own. The hole didn't wind up being a clean circle but a removed a bit of material at a time and test fit the QL38 until it was bit enough and round enough to install.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ccR...Wf1LXg54AaABAg

Definitely use lots of painters tape to protect the hood. Widening the hole in this manner took a long time and it slipped a few times as my hands got tired.

I guess we can call this a success
spot on. ql-25 are not recommended. Ql-38 with a visit to ace for matching washers and you are done. Nice work.

Old 04-09-20, 07:42 PM
  #86  
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Thanks for the write up and video. How come QL25 is not recommended? I am using them along with the factory hood latch on a CF hood, so it feels pretty secure to me. I've also track tested it a couple times and it held nice and solid.
Old 04-09-20, 07:56 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by mkiv98
Thanks for the write up and video. How come QL25 is not recommended? I am using them along with the factory hood latch on a CF hood, so it feels pretty secure to me. I've also track tested it a couple times and it held nice and solid.
It’s just the manufacturers recommendation. Ql-25 are considered safe for use as fasteners. Ql-38 and above for hoods. Again it’s just the manufacturers recommendation. You may be fine with the oem latch also in play.
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Old 04-10-20, 02:57 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by NV02
Just to show what bits I used when drilling my hood. A 3/4 inch for the top and 1 1/8 for the bottom. The teeth stick out slightly, so the resulting hole will be somewhat larger that the listed diameter. The stock hood has sandwiched panels so the bottom hole has to be bigger for the nut to clear.
It looks like you used the hole saws to drill into the stock aluminum hood. Results are probably different than drilling into a carbon fiber hood.
I'm curious if the diameter of the hole that was cut is the same as the diameter of the hole saw when used on stock aluminum hood?
Old 07-27-21, 01:56 PM
  #89  
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Pardon the ignorance, where exactly do the nut and washer/bushing go? Between the Quik-Latch and the carbon fiber hood or underneath the carbon fiber hood?
And what is the size for this nut & washer/bushing?

Originally Posted by Aarkaah
Same here. This is a must do with any cf hood. Ace matching diameter washers.

Ql-38. Painted to match the hood. With ace washers. Perfect weighting. No movement.



Old 07-27-21, 01:59 PM
  #90  
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I wanna guess the thin washer/bushing goes right underneath the Quik-Latch (on top of the hood), and the nut goes underneath the hood itself?
Old 07-27-21, 02:13 PM
  #91  
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Originally Posted by CanyonRunner
I wanna guess the thin washer/bushing goes right underneath the Quik-Latch (on top of the hood), and the nut goes underneath the hood itself?
The quick latch top part is thick enough and wide enough (the screw on retaining nut is not as wide). The carbon fiber hoods are typically too thin so the weighted washer goes under the cf hood and is followed by the nut to get the quick latch bolt to bite properly on the aftermarket hood. Added plus is the weighted washer helps bring the hood down easy.

good luck and reach out if needed.




Last edited by Aarkaah; 07-27-21 at 02:16 PM.
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