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Sorry for my ignorance, but I have never removed a door. How in the hell do you get the door check pins back in? I assume a new one goes in no issues and then expands??
Also, any pointers for the plug removal? Are the latches at the top and bottom of the plug and need to be squeezed down for top and up for bottom? My first attempt went south really quick and my helper was unable to hold door steady. Any tips would be much appreciated.
I just want to get the door off and back on without messing anything up.
Pic where Allen wrench is location for the pin. I am pretty sure it is called the "check pin"
The door plugs need to be assaulted from the inside of the car. There is a red pin latch thing that needs to be released. Then it's a tight fit to get the plug to separate. There are hooks that sort of hold it to the chassis and the plugs themselves are almost a suction fit together. It's a little difficult to remove them. I pulled on the wires to get them to separate. I know it's bad but they were really stuck together.
The pin that goes in the swing part of the door is to be removed from the bottom up and then installed from the top down. If you're having a hard time getting it back in, the parts may not be aligned or your pin mis shapen.
It's really difficult to explain how to remove the door plugs. Once you do it once, everything will make sense. Get a good look at the plug once you take it off and you'll understand how it works.
I may try again later today and if I am able enough I will try to add a vid clip.
When you say from inside do you mean from behind the dash? If so I will be drilling new holes as I will not deal with that. I was planning on putting a hole in the plugs to run my speaker wires. Then while the door is off I can make sure it is prepped and wrapped nice and proper.
For the door pins I am literally trying to hammer it straight back down and it is not budging and it doesn't seem deformed at all. Are new ones already "expanded" also? Or do they expand once they are in?
Nothing is ever easy!
I haven't found anything searching for door removal. I found a couple good ones about running speaker wire, but they usually end with.... "I will post everything when finished".
Yes, from under the dash those plugs have a relief. It's a red pin thing that needs to be pushed. It's what locks the 2 parts together. I will post a video of removing the pin from my car if you don't figure it out before I do it. I should be able to do it tomorrow
Your awesome and have no idea how much help that could be. I will do my best today so you don't have to go through that. If I figure it out I may put up a vid myself since I can't find any.
For the check pins it fit nicely into the 2nd hole. The one that is the furthest from the door to the frame. I ordered 2 new ones so I will worry about the first hole when I get the new pins to see if it makes a difference.
CR-Rex and Tom. Thanks. I got it and it wasn't all that bad. I think it was one of those nights I had to just walk away. I will post how I did it all later. The plug took about 15 sec once I figured it out.
Pin punches are made specifically for this task. Been a few months, but yeah 2nd hole rings a bell, you don't need new pins unless they've been mangled on removal.
Generally found door removed with hinges and guard off makes this task much easier, don't envy you trying to support a ~ 30kg door while trying to work in the hinge line and avoiding paint damage. Access to the plug where it goes through the chassis is a doddle then too.
Pin punches are made specifically for this task. Been a few months, but yeah 2nd hole rings a bell, you don't need new pins unless they've been mangled on removal.
Generally found door removed with hinges and guard off makes this task much easier, don't envy you trying to support a ~ 30kg door while trying to work in the hinge line and avoiding paint damage. Access to the plug where it goes through the chassis is a doddle then too.
Well, I got one of the jacks out and my 13 year old son while balancing it on my leg lol. Anyway, it looks like I will be drilling a separate hole into the body and run it into the rubber snake of the door. I will not drill the factory plug. This is for more than the wire as the wrap job needs to be good. This car has some amazing curves, but the gaps are quite large at the front of the doors.
This car may not be the best example of how to do things as I am finding out more and more odd things about this vehicle as time goes on. Something I will be bringing up to Cam @Pettit (not that it will do any good). Anyway, I didn't want to be someone who says they will post how to do and they never come back.
1. Remove door check pin to allow more room to work.
2. I used my right pointer finger on right side door to push latch down at the top of the plug while using flathead and slowly turning it clockwise to pry out the plug. I never messed with the red latch. It is possible that mine was broke to begin with.
3. Use a jack to hold up end of door while you take off the 4 bolts with someone holding the door to keep it balanced. That's it. Carefully bring door back as not to hit it on fender.
*same thing on left door. My left door switch was 1/2 way off so I didn't even have to mess with it. Tells me this door has been removed. Why? Why would someone remove a door on a car that wasn't ever in a wreck unless the car was in fact in a wreck. I dunno, I will have to ask Cam. According to him this was never in a wreck before. Hmmmmmm.
Also it is my opinion the best way to run a speaker wire will be just to drill a separate hole and put a grommet. Splice into the runner sleeve part going to the door.
This car may not be the best example of how to do things as I am finding out more and more odd things about this vehicle as time goes on. Something I will be bringing up to Cam @Pettit (not that it will do any good). Anyway, I didn't want to be someone who says they will post how to do and they never come back.
1. Remove door check pin to allow more room to work.
2. I used my right pointer finger on right side door to push latch down at the top of the plug while using flathead and slowly turning it clockwise to pry out the plug. I never messed with the red latch. It is possible that mine was broke to begin with.
3. Use a jack to hold up end of door while you take off the 4 bolts with someone holding the door to keep it balanced. That's it. Carefully bring door back as not to hit it on fender.
*same thing on left door. My left door switch was 1/2 way off so I didn't even have to mess with it. Tells me this door has been removed. Why? Why would someone remove a door on a car that wasn't ever in a wreck unless the car was in fact in a wreck. I dunno, I will have to ask Cam. According to him this was never in a wreck before. Hmmmmmm.
Also it is my opinion the best way to run a speaker wire will be just to drill a separate hole and put a grommet. Splice into the runner sleeve part going to the door.
It's been a while, but i think i used the stock wiring vs. running new speaker wire which is pointless now since the car is so freaking loud i can't even hear the stereo
I ran some extra wires into my door for keyless entry a LONG time ago. I went to the junkyard and found another Mazda with the same large white oval door connector and cut off both sides of the harness off the junkyard car.
Pulled some pins out of the connector and inserted them into empty holes in the harness on my car. Attached the wires going to/from the connector to those pigtails and good to go.
I recently installed a power door lock actuator into my driver door. I ran the wires through some empty slots on the OEM door harness connector. Below is the info for the pins and sockets.
Not bad for scuff marks. Here I basically treated it like shoe polish, spraying on the back of a cloth, thinning with a little, lacquer thinner and then rubbing the plastic gently from the other side of the cloth.
