Pulling Turbos
Pulling Turbos
This is my first time actually pulling the turbos myself. Does anyone have any useful or insightful tips for me? I figured somebody out there has done it enough to know the ins and outs and any potential troublespots. All suggestions welcome.
It is not too hard, just a little tricky to get them out after they are unbolted. The worst part is getting the oil lines bolted back in the proper place when putting everything back together. I guess I don't really have any tips, just keep things organized enough that you don't lose any bolts/nuts.
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The shop manual will help, but the procedure isn't very good in my opinion. It *does* show you where the nuts are, though. Basically just start taking stuff off until you can get to the nuts that hold the turbo onto the exhaust manifold. All the intake tubing, y-pipe, actuators (I think), downpipe... has to come off.
Some tips that come to mind:
1) Drain your coolant; probably a good time to change it while you're at it.
2) Replace all the old vacuum lines if you haven't already.
3) Everyone always says to use penetrating oil on the dp studs and let them soak for a few hours. I'm not convinced that it helps, since the studs don't rust at all. If you have high miles, like I did, you might run into problems.
Some tips that come to mind:
1) Drain your coolant; probably a good time to change it while you're at it.
2) Replace all the old vacuum lines if you haven't already.
3) Everyone always says to use penetrating oil on the dp studs and let them soak for a few hours. I'm not convinced that it helps, since the studs don't rust at all. If you have high miles, like I did, you might run into problems.
Originally posted by paw140
3) Everyone always says to use penetrating oil on the dp studs and let them soak for a few hours. I'm not convinced that it helps, since the studs don't rust at all. If you have high miles, like I did, you might run into problems.
3) Everyone always says to use penetrating oil on the dp studs and let them soak for a few hours. I'm not convinced that it helps, since the studs don't rust at all. If you have high miles, like I did, you might run into problems.
If I knew what I know now when I first broke a turbo manifold stud I would not have broken it. Here is my tip to you. If you get to a nut/ stud that begins to get harder as you back it off, stop. Spray the lubricant and start threading it back in. Spray more lubricant, and then start threading it back out. Keep doing it and you will prevent the stud from stretching and welding into the manifold. Use copper base anti-seize with new studs (if stretched IMO)
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Originally posted by spooledUP7
Use copper base anti-seize with new studs (if stretched IMO)
Use copper base anti-seize with new studs (if stretched IMO)
I will disagree with you. No lubricant = increased friction, and increased heat.
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CaptainKRM
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Aug 26, 2015 09:52 PM



