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I went back to re check tps just because just about every thread points to it
i made it worse. It seems to be running on one rotor
vacuum in guage is low, Increadibly rough and lots of vibration. Plus the sound
checked spark plugs and front was "wet" the rear "dry"
however there was no bouncing idle for the moment that it ran. Could my bouncing idle be injector related?
I doubt it's injector related. It may be partly flooded if you've started and stopped it cold while working on it. Or, you may have knocked the vacuum line to the MAP sensor off or something.
With the TPS you just want to check it with the engine fully warm. Get the voltages as close as you can and you're done. You typically don't have to mess with it past that. The FD TPS works well, it doesn't really have problems or need adjustment long-term. Once it's good, it's good.
I like boring in this case as in nothing going on!
Map sensor is ruled out,
it was rough all the way to op temp and re checked my tps numbers after its warmed up, again good
there is lots of smoke now and it smells like gas
something i came across on a different post, they took off the lines to the pressure chamber and nothing was in there
i did the same and nothing came out, unless this only happens with boost
i took the one off the Vacuum chamber and there was air coming out
I will probably take manifold off again and check vacuum lines again
i only removed it when installed tps and installed double throttle solenoid - planning to remove again since my vacuum now started reading at about 10 in. Hg
i didnt remove them from coils, when i checked spark plugs i did one at a time
and when i did the 2 leading one a different time i checked online before putting them back
i made sure i heard the little click of it snapping on tho the plug on each one
I do not have any codes regardless of how bad its running right now
tps settings are still withing 2nd from top 1.08 closed to 4.99 open and bottom .5 closed to 4.2 opened
It went from having a bouncing idle yesterday morning to running worse in the evening
heres a cold start up and it jus stays like that. it vibrates a lot more than what the video may be able to show
and smoke that wont clear up
maybe i need to do a compression test
It's worth doing a compression test just to be sure. I had a friend once who chased his tail for AGES trying to figure out why his car didn't run right. I finally came over and did a compression test, he had a stuck side seal so he was dropping compression on one rotor face.
The good thing is when you crank the car it sounds good to me. A blown engine typically sounds different when first cranking, you can hear the missing compression pulse. But, it could be a side seal or something, it's worth doing. This can be done with a plain piston compression checker, that's how I diagnosed my friend's side seal back in the day. The rotary testers are nice and make the job easier but a piston tester will tell you what you need to know.
It may be worth throwing in a brand new set of leading plugs and double-checking the plug wiring. I would also take a hard look at anything else you touched in this process to see if you have a damaged wire or something loose or not connected. It was doing somewhat OK at the start of this thread, need to see what was touched in the mean time, that's typically where the fault lies.
Ill be doing a compression test to hopefully rule that out
This is how my leading plugs look when i take them out from the car after "running"
To me they dont look that bad, but ill still get a fresh set,
only difference is the wet(front) and dry(rear)
How do you test coils? Or would i need one of those tools that lets you see the spark through a clear "tube"
You may want to check and make sure you are getting spark on all the plugs. The fuel smell/smoke seems like something is going on with fuel or ignition, unless you do find an issue with the compression test.
My first line test with coils is one of those inductive sensors that lights the bulb when the coil fires. Not super accurate, but gives me an idea if one is flat out not firing. There are better ways to test where you can actually observe the spark as well.
Unrelated but in your video it looks like your airbag light is blinking. I think the diagnostic modules eventually burn an internal fuse if you run them with an error for too long. They don't make them anymore, so I hate to see one burn out even if you don't want the system functioning.
Stock coils really don't spontaneously go bad, they do get weaker over time. There is a test in the shop manual to test the resistance of the coils, that test is pretty accurate I've found.
But, that's a good deal more work to get to them, you would really need to pull the UIM to get to them.
I'd start with a fresh pair of leading plugs and triple-check the plug wires VERY carefully to make sure the right wire is going to the right plug. The plugs you have there aren't very worn but if they are fouled they will fight you.
I should probably take this secret to the grave, but upon close inspection
I had 4 trailing plugs. IDK how this happened, so for 2 years my car has had 4 trailng plugs
probably should not completely trust in autoparts stores to know rotaries so thats my mistake
annnnywaaayys
now it starts up smooth no more shaking smoke goes away. ive got 18-20 in hg of vacuum
and now im back to just the bouncing idle
I will still do a compression test maybe. but coils and plugs and probably compression is good now
Spinning- yea i have the protege wheel on which i like more than an aftermarket wheel with a hub. gives it a nice more oem look, I didnt want to mess with the airbag wiring
I read somewhere about solderingin a resistor? is this true and which one? I only have the horn(orange) connected but the blue plug is disconnected under dash
Its just like the video i posted hanngs out 1k-1.5k rpm
up n down
I have thought about taking it out and drive it sort of like a
"walk it off" type of deal. I know when my old tps was bad it
Would buck and codes flash. If this doesnt happen then i can potentially cross off tps.
Also now with correct plugs ill try to see if I can adjust the idle so it stops hunting
small update. Almost thought problem solved itself, that is until it warmed up. so close
for the first time it warmed up normally
it used to go immediately to the bouning after a few seconds of starting up, not this time, but still happened
no codes as of now.
i recorded the whole thing untill it started to have its issues
2 noticeable moments to me were at 3:20 and at 5:20, tho this is when it actually starts bouning
Good new!, I think im Finally on the right track
I took the car out for a drive and unless i had the ac on or light it wouldnt stop bouncing
no change at all
However today I just decided to start it up and let it warm up
I covered both holes on the the throttle body to see if it would change perhaps let me know its
getting more air from somehwere else. IT worked. the first time. after giving it some throttle it hunted again
I decided to press on the bottom TB valve to sort of force it close
and it stopped hunting. I repeated and stopped hunting.
I dont think its the thermowax, because it has extended and I've even completely moved it but didnt really move
it must be something else related to the side of the thermowax side, maybe ishould add some lubricant to it?
Welp shes purring now.
Out of all things it was the throttle cable. It was not letting the bottom valve close completely
even after the thermowax disengaged it.
but now it closes and no more hunting or bouncing Thanks for the help Dave and anyone else who chimed in
Nice! Yep, an over tightened throttle cable can do that. You want a little bit of slack. Also it needs to be adjusted with the engine warm, with it cold the thermowax can throw the adjustment off.
06-10-20, 12:25 PM
