rattlehead

The hose above the Tps leaked on my sensor and ever since I either Got 18 CEL
and would buck if i tried to drive it even just backing up in driveway
and recently started idling really rough, CEL goes on and off
I depin(one at a time) and retaped each wire where there were cracks to reseal and see if it helped

I am 80% my TPS is toast the other 20% is because it decides to work some time

After digging around and looking at different threads and cewrx7r1 that lead to nothing unfortunately I concluded these are my 2 best options
Expensive option- buy from atkins
Buying used with or without TB

Some people have done with differnt ones but they have different ECU's, I have the Pettite ecu.

Now I do have questions,
1.Does the Supra TPS actually work as someone said?
2.Are any other Mazda/Ford TPS's interchangeable?
3.Is there any success with any of these?
4. Just buy used and call it a day?

Thanks.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Buy used and call it a day. They are really hardy all things considered, my car has the original TPS at 135,000 miles with zero problems.

Shouldn't be too hard to find a good used one and it shouldn't cost too much.

Dale

b3delta

iTrader: (2)

Connector for harness side is a Sumitomo 6195-0030, in case you need that too.

rattlehead

Well ill keep an eye on classifieds. thanks Dale

thanks. I think mine is still good though I do plan to extend the connector on the harness, I hate the almost 180 dergree bend that the stock harness has,
part of the reason the wire cracked with all the heat

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I would PM FritzFlynn and TomSN16 on the forum, they have tons of parts and would be an easy place to start.

Dale

rattlehead

Im hoping to revive this a littel bit before having to post.

Ive searched and only found so far bouncing idle issues when there is electrical load.
I am now having issues when there isnt any electric load.
my bouncing idle cleared up when i turned on the dash lights. also tried it with ac-same result

I did just replace the TPS with one a member sold me, I dont think that is the problem at all so i want to try and look at some possible other causes
prior to this i did have cel 12 and 18 but after removing throttle body and re aligning it to some marks I had I got no codes and it didnt die

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

You may need to adjust the TPS. It's kind of a pain to do with a stock ECU. Read up in the shop manual, you'll need to get a multimeter on the wires to the TPS. Recommended setting is .50v and 1.25v for the 2 sensor wires.

But before doing that you probably want to clean the ISC. It's easy to do and solves the bouncing idle problems more often than not.

Dale

rattlehead

After adjusting and testing
3F closed-1.03v and open-4.9v
3G closed .49v and open-4.2(maybe this one needs to go higher?)

They all seem to fall within recomendations
3F ECU connector. Closed throttle +V range is 0.75 to 1.25. Fully opened throttle +V range is 4.8 to 5.0.
3G ECU connector. Closed throttle +V range is 0.1 to 0.7. Fully opened throttle +V range is 4.2 to 4.6

Thought I was good to go but now if I slowly give it throttle it starts to have problems around 2.5-3k rpm
Ill adjust some more and try some differnt numbers within the range.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Those numbers are dead on at this point, tenths of a volt aren't going to make a huge difference.

At this point what are the problems/symptoms?

Dale

rattlehead

I also checked for any dead spots and all good from closed to full open

Would unplugging the isc help the bouncing idle, bypass?
i did clean it.

Issues right so far
-bouncing idle
-rough acceleration 2-3k
Cel 18 and 50


Smooths out when add electric load
blipping the throttle past goes up fairly normal

rattlehead

This video has the idle bounce, it used to be worse, there is a click that lowers the idle and smooths it out

rattlehead

this video I slowly pressed downt the accelerator
i noticed CEL goes away and comes back

not best way to up load video but only way i figured it out

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Are you sure the codes are 18 and 50?

Code 18 means the ECU detected a problem with one of the signals from the TPS (narrow range signal). From what I've seen in the factory service manual, that signal might be related to for idle and light-load behavior. There is a different code for the other TPS signal (full range).

Code 50 is the Double Throttle solenoid valve, which is located in the rat's nest under the intake manifold. The connector for the double throttle solenoid is pretty far from the throttle, although the wires do run in the same harness. That harness is named the Emission harness in the factory wiring manual, and has most of the fuel-related things like fuel injectors and turbo control solenoids and coolant temp sensor.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the idle bounce can be a few things. the ECU actually will seek its target speed, and it uses timing, and then the BAC valve to do it. if the engine speed is too far outside the range that the ECU can adjust, the idle will get bouncy.

i would suggest setting the idle speed. when you ground the TEN pin it turns off the timing feedback, so you can set the idle speed with the TEN pin grounded and then when you remove the ground the timing should not move

the engine codes are set for open or short circuits, so you should start there.

rattlehead

I will check the wiring for the tps
I noticed my air pump goes on and off a lot right now especially after touching the accelerator

scotty- the 18 code makes sense if you say that the narrow signal is for idle and light load,j9- a lot of the idle issues now are happening while its warming up, the really noticable one now is it feels bubbly or hiccups extra bit of pops if this makes sense

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

mine does that too, its fine cold and hot, but there is a temp range in the middle where it surges for a bit. the ecu has an rpm range with temp and if you're outside that it'll hunt.

you can jump TEN (Test ENable) and ground when its running if you're setting the idle. if you're trying to pull codes you need to connect it with the key off.

rattlehead

j9-Ahh ok maybe im just noticing more since im more activly paying attention

Sorry if im goin in circles but to get it within the rpm range the ecu likes- where do i adjust from. So far ive only adjusted from the screw under TB
should i be looking at other parts as well?

i guess when should i try it i should ask- after is warmed up or when its cold

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

you would set the warm idle speed first with the screw under the TB, this usually fixes everything, if not then you can adjust the thermowax. the thermowax has an adjustment for rpm as well as the amount of time it is on. the FSM is a little vague and i would make small changes, its easy to get lost

rattlehead

goodnews/badnews my double thottle solenoid is not activating when given volts so at least that takes care of one issue
now i gotta buy one

rattlehead

I have finally
-replaced double throttle solenoid
-redid tps wiring, checked for continuity on each wire,
-tried to set warm idle with ten/grnd and tried to adjust thermowax(maybe im not doing this one right
-cleaned out spark plugs,
-cleaned isc,
Tps calibration all checks out
Abslutely no codes pop up

this is where I am at, bliping the throttle feels great very responsive
electrical load(ac or headlights) smooths out rpms but causes idle to go to almost 2k
in the video i held the rpms at one point and still bounced
i slowly pressed on the accelerator and as it went up in the rpms it still did it while bouncing

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

First off, I'm assuming you're on a stock ECU. The air pump is hooked up and working, correct?

Have you checked your clutch switch? A bad clutch switch will do all sorts of idle weirdness.

Did you set the TPS with the car warmed up or with it cold?

Dale

rattlehead

Yes stock ecu(pettit chip)
air pump works i can hear the clicking of it on and off

Did not know this existed,
how do i check ? Jumper or disconnect

I did it both ways, i set it up cold so as to "ball park it"
then when the car managed to warm up i readjusted
to fall within spec

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Here's a thread on the clutch switch -

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-gen-arch...switch-495391/

There's others out there. The spring in the switch can rust over time.

You can't really bypass it, it needs to be fixed for the ECU to see that input properly. But you should be able to test it out, I think there's a test in the shop manual too.

Dale

rattlehead

I opened it up and it appeared good
spring was good and tested the continuity with it
Disengaged(constant beep from multimeter
engaged(pressed down multimetter doesnt beep)

is there constant voltage on the connector or activated at different times?

also just got codes,
5 knock sensor(this one has gone on and off on me a few times) idk if thats good or bad
edit- they went awa and havent comeback again
28 egr illreplace solenoid just iin case( does this affect my idle though?
***i reset to see if they would come back again doing the same thing and they havent

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Good, you can rule out the clutch switch.

Knock sensor is probably wiring or something to the sensor itself.

EGR valve really doesn't do anything that will affect drivability.

Dale