Which premix are you guys using???
#102
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I used Protek-R in my last motor , never noticed any different smell ... just completed an 8 hour road trip in the FD using the TC-W3 stuff , and I didn't notice any different smell either ... I was cruise controlled at 90 MPH though , so hard to notice ??
#103
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If you never smelled Klotz, once you do, you will never forget it.
It smells similar to running High Octane race fuel in a car. It is very addictive to lots of 2 stroke guys. Anyway, I wasnt sure how it would work in our cars, so I ordered a case of Idemitsu without the good smell
It smells similar to running High Octane race fuel in a car. It is very addictive to lots of 2 stroke guys. Anyway, I wasnt sure how it would work in our cars, so I ordered a case of Idemitsu without the good smell
#104
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Besides ordering it on-line are there any stores that sell this stuff? RP was backordered and I was thinking about a bottle of Amsoil to hold me over. I went to the big three (NAPA, Auto Zone, Advance) and none of them carry anything decent.
There is a A Summit Racing store about 45 min away. I guess that is an option, I just did not want to drive an hour and a half to buy oil.
There is a A Summit Racing store about 45 min away. I guess that is an option, I just did not want to drive an hour and a half to buy oil.
#105
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#109
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Anyone use Protek-R from Pettit?
http://pettitracing.com/rx7/index_maintenance.htm
Thinking of going with it since it conveniently comes in 4oz bottles :]
Was originally gonna go for the Idemitsu, but the convenience of the small bottles may have swayed me.
http://pettitracing.com/rx7/index_maintenance.htm
Thinking of going with it since it conveniently comes in 4oz bottles :]
Was originally gonna go for the Idemitsu, but the convenience of the small bottles may have swayed me.
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I wish I had a few pics of the power valves and piston crowns in my Yamaha GP1200R waverunner after running that Quicksilver **** for about a year...unbelievable (bad)...after a year with Amsoil synthetic it was night and day, that made a believer out of me
#118
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that seems to be the common perception: higher hp, higher pre-mix ratio required
but keep in mind that you will also be pumping alot more oil and gas through the combustion chambers per given unit of time with a high horsepower application
pre-mix ratios generally don't change for high hp two stroke applications, I think there's a reason for that
but keep in mind that you will also be pumping alot more oil and gas through the combustion chambers per given unit of time with a high horsepower application
pre-mix ratios generally don't change for high hp two stroke applications, I think there's a reason for that
#120
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that's already been beat to death on the sister thread to this one
https://www.rx7club.com/automotive-news-lounge-22/any-negative-effects-2-stroke-oil-735822/ see p. 2
MMO is not a true "oil", it's more of a detergent additive, primarily used to remove carbon deposits in older engines, but it should not be considered an alternative to Idemitsu or a quality synthetic two stroke
https://www.rx7club.com/automotive-news-lounge-22/any-negative-effects-2-stroke-oil-735822/ see p. 2
MMO is not a true "oil", it's more of a detergent additive, primarily used to remove carbon deposits in older engines, but it should not be considered an alternative to Idemitsu or a quality synthetic two stroke
#121
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Many people have recommended MMO fro premix. MMO is good to use to clean your engine internals on a parts washer, it removes all the carbon deposits well with some scrubing.
#122
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^^You're not getting it. Premix is meant to lubricate the apex seals, MMO is the opposite of a lube, it's a cleaner, as such you're not pre-mixing if you use MMO. Personally, my internals get cleaned from my water injection setup, so I just stick to Idemitsu rotary-specific premix. After the contents of this thread, I'm going to back it off a bit and use less, being that my OMP is still working fine.
#123
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Well, it appears I have to eat a bit of crow and offer Mark an apology
While I *do* still maintain that 1 oz per gallon is a good number for people *without* a stock OMP, it looks like the same amount *with* a working OMP isnt the best idea.
I've barely driven my FD in the last few months due to being swamped in motor jobs and the crappy weather we've been having. But this past weekend I had the chance to really put some miles on the car.
Basically, I'd been adding 1 oz premix per gallon for some time now (my OMP is still installed), and after this thread began to wonder if perhaps the odd 7k+ rpm breakup problems I'd been having were related to this.
It's anecdotal, but when I filled it with zero premix, then took the FD out and beat the tar out of it, I noticed a few (admittedly subjective) things:
She revved more smoothly, especially top end, with no breakup at all. Also seemed to have more power, my R1 felt noticeably faster.
Keep in mind I went out with maybe half a tank (and premix), beat on the car, then drove around easy til I was down to about 1/4 tank. Filled up with zero premix, went out and beat on her some more
I'm thinking I'll dial it back to maybe 5 oz's for a full tank and see what happens.
So, there you have it folks. My case study/1 car clinical trial on premix
While I *do* still maintain that 1 oz per gallon is a good number for people *without* a stock OMP, it looks like the same amount *with* a working OMP isnt the best idea.
I've barely driven my FD in the last few months due to being swamped in motor jobs and the crappy weather we've been having. But this past weekend I had the chance to really put some miles on the car.
Basically, I'd been adding 1 oz premix per gallon for some time now (my OMP is still installed), and after this thread began to wonder if perhaps the odd 7k+ rpm breakup problems I'd been having were related to this.
It's anecdotal, but when I filled it with zero premix, then took the FD out and beat the tar out of it, I noticed a few (admittedly subjective) things:
She revved more smoothly, especially top end, with no breakup at all. Also seemed to have more power, my R1 felt noticeably faster.
Keep in mind I went out with maybe half a tank (and premix), beat on the car, then drove around easy til I was down to about 1/4 tank. Filled up with zero premix, went out and beat on her some more
I'm thinking I'll dial it back to maybe 5 oz's for a full tank and see what happens.
So, there you have it folks. My case study/1 car clinical trial on premix
#125
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I'm interested to know what sparkplugs you guys are using and the effect of adding premix on plug deposits over time.
A little background: I recently purchased an FD with a Pettit street ported motor (23k miles) and Pettit ECU. The car has a full exhaust (no cats), no airpump, and stock twins. The previous owner added 4oz of Pettit's ProtekR to every full tank of gas and I continued that practice for about 15 tank fill-ups. At that point I ran out of Protek and started adding approximately 4oz of Redline Synthetic 2-stroke racing oil to a full tank fill-up. The car seemed down on power at the top end after two tanks on the Redline oil compared to Protek. Obviously this is entirely subjective. I then managed to flood the engine after a cold start/shutdown (I'm new to rotaries). I had to pull the plugs to unflood the engine, at which time I noticed that they had a fair amount of carbon buildup on them, although they were only fuel fouled. They are stock type platinum NGK plugs, BUR7EQP leading, BUR9EQP trailing. I found this curious as everthing I've read seems to point to needing cooler plugs on engines tuned for more power. (The setup on this car should be around 340 hp, I think)
So on to my question: Would adding premix neccesitate using a hot(ter) plug to keep deposits down? Has anyone experienced increased plug carbon deposits/decreased plug life after swithcing to a premix?
Also, would adding a premix change the effective octane rating of your fuel?
A little background: I recently purchased an FD with a Pettit street ported motor (23k miles) and Pettit ECU. The car has a full exhaust (no cats), no airpump, and stock twins. The previous owner added 4oz of Pettit's ProtekR to every full tank of gas and I continued that practice for about 15 tank fill-ups. At that point I ran out of Protek and started adding approximately 4oz of Redline Synthetic 2-stroke racing oil to a full tank fill-up. The car seemed down on power at the top end after two tanks on the Redline oil compared to Protek. Obviously this is entirely subjective. I then managed to flood the engine after a cold start/shutdown (I'm new to rotaries). I had to pull the plugs to unflood the engine, at which time I noticed that they had a fair amount of carbon buildup on them, although they were only fuel fouled. They are stock type platinum NGK plugs, BUR7EQP leading, BUR9EQP trailing. I found this curious as everthing I've read seems to point to needing cooler plugs on engines tuned for more power. (The setup on this car should be around 340 hp, I think)
So on to my question: Would adding premix neccesitate using a hot(ter) plug to keep deposits down? Has anyone experienced increased plug carbon deposits/decreased plug life after swithcing to a premix?
Also, would adding a premix change the effective octane rating of your fuel?