OMP= Oil Metering Pump
dont worry log on this forum occasinally and you will find all the info you need, also get a Worshop Manual it will be your best friend especially when you are new to Rotaries

 

I used Protek-R in my last motor , never noticed any different smell ... just completed an 8 hour road trip in the FD using the TC-W3 stuff , and I didn't notice any different smell either ... I was cruise controlled at 90 MPH though , so hard to notice ??

 

If you never smelled Klotz, once you do, you will never forget it.
It smells similar to running High Octane race fuel in a car. It is very addictive to lots of 2 stroke guys. Anyway, I wasnt sure how it would work in our cars, so I ordered a case of Idemitsu without the good smell

 

Besides ordering it on-line are there any stores that sell this stuff? RP was backordered and I was thinking about a bottle of Amsoil to hold me over. I went to the big three (NAPA, Auto Zone, Advance) and none of them carry anything decent.

There is a A Summit Racing store about 45 min away. I guess that is an option, I just did not want to drive an hour and a half to buy oil.

 

if anything, you would want to run on the rich side for break-in

 

mikeric. try the motorcycle shop

 

Thanks! Will do.

 

mikeric, I don't have the adapter installed, I just modified my own OMP.

Terry7

 

I agree with Rich, they told me 1/2 oz per gallon with correctly working OMP and jets.

 

I called Idemitsu and they told me 1/2 per gallon, no OMP

 

I always thought it was 1oz of premix per gallon of gas with OMP removed... at least thats what i was told.

 

Anyone use Protek-R from Pettit?
http://pettitracing.com/rx7/index_maintenance.htm

Thinking of going with it since it conveniently comes in 4oz bottles :]

Was originally gonna go for the Idemitsu, but the convenience of the small bottles may have swayed me.

 

can we change the title of this thread to the quote above?

 

haha... maybe, everyone seems to have different opinions on how much premix to use rather then type of premix. I'm currently using Quicksilver but am switching to Idemitsu soon after the new motor's in.

 

I wish I had a few pics of the power valves and piston crowns in my Yamaha GP1200R waverunner after running that Quicksilver **** for about a year...unbelievable (bad)...after a year with Amsoil synthetic it was night and day, that made a believer out of me

 

Thats why i'm switching to Idemitsu!

 

with my car going to have around 420hp at the wheels w/ single turbo set up i think 1oz. per gallon is a safe bet w/ idemitsu premix

 

that seems to be the common perception: higher hp, higher pre-mix ratio required

but keep in mind that you will also be pumping alot more oil and gas through the combustion chambers per given unit of time with a high horsepower application

pre-mix ratios generally don't change for high hp two stroke applications, I think there's a reason for that

 

anyone has experienced with Marval Mystery Oil?

 

that's already been beat to death on the sister thread to this one
https://www.rx7club.com/automotive-news-lounge-22/any-negative-effects-2-stroke-oil-735822/ see p. 2

MMO is not a true "oil", it's more of a detergent additive, primarily used to remove carbon deposits in older engines, but it should not be considered an alternative to Idemitsu or a quality synthetic two stroke

 

Many people have recommended MMO fro premix. MMO is good to use to clean your engine internals on a parts washer, it removes all the carbon deposits well with some scrubing.

 

^^You're not getting it. Premix is meant to lubricate the apex seals, MMO is the opposite of a lube, it's a cleaner, as such you're not pre-mixing if you use MMO. Personally, my internals get cleaned from my water injection setup, so I just stick to Idemitsu rotary-specific premix. After the contents of this thread, I'm going to back it off a bit and use less, being that my OMP is still working fine.

 

Well, it appears I have to eat a bit of crow and offer Mark an apology

While I *do* still maintain that 1 oz per gallon is a good number for people *without* a stock OMP, it looks like the same amount *with* a working OMP isnt the best idea.

I've barely driven my FD in the last few months due to being swamped in motor jobs and the crappy weather we've been having. But this past weekend I had the chance to really put some miles on the car.

Basically, I'd been adding 1 oz premix per gallon for some time now (my OMP is still installed), and after this thread began to wonder if perhaps the odd 7k+ rpm breakup problems I'd been having were related to this.

It's anecdotal, but when I filled it with zero premix, then took the FD out and beat the tar out of it, I noticed a few (admittedly subjective) things:

She revved more smoothly, especially top end, with no breakup at all. Also seemed to have more power, my R1 felt noticeably faster.

Keep in mind I went out with maybe half a tank (and premix), beat on the car, then drove around easy til I was down to about 1/4 tank. Filled up with zero premix, went out and beat on her some more

I'm thinking I'll dial it back to maybe 5 oz's for a full tank and see what happens.

So, there you have it folks. My case study/1 car clinical trial on premix

 

hey we'll all here to learn something right? now trying plugging off the OMP and go beat on it with 1/2 oz per gallon, that's what I do

 

I'm interested to know what sparkplugs you guys are using and the effect of adding premix on plug deposits over time.

A little background: I recently purchased an FD with a Pettit street ported motor (23k miles) and Pettit ECU. The car has a full exhaust (no cats), no airpump, and stock twins. The previous owner added 4oz of Pettit's ProtekR to every full tank of gas and I continued that practice for about 15 tank fill-ups. At that point I ran out of Protek and started adding approximately 4oz of Redline Synthetic 2-stroke racing oil to a full tank fill-up. The car seemed down on power at the top end after two tanks on the Redline oil compared to Protek. Obviously this is entirely subjective. I then managed to flood the engine after a cold start/shutdown (I'm new to rotaries). I had to pull the plugs to unflood the engine, at which time I noticed that they had a fair amount of carbon buildup on them, although they were only fuel fouled. They are stock type platinum NGK plugs, BUR7EQP leading, BUR9EQP trailing. I found this curious as everthing I've read seems to point to needing cooler plugs on engines tuned for more power. (The setup on this car should be around 340 hp, I think)

So on to my question: Would adding premix neccesitate using a hot(ter) plug to keep deposits down? Has anyone experienced increased plug carbon deposits/decreased plug life after swithcing to a premix?

Also, would adding a premix change the effective octane rating of your fuel?