Which premix are you guys using???
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From: NC
if you get on the Amsoil site you can look up a local dealer, although it's not that much cheaper than running Idemitsu
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Rich, I just spoke with the owner of RX7World here in SC (who is also an Idemitsu rep) and he says the 1/2 per gallon recommendation is for non-OMP equipped cars (based on his discussion with them), he also said he's been running 1/2 ounce per gallon in his single turbo car for a long time with no problems
he agreed with me that 1 oz per gallon results in big time smoking and good chance of fouling plugs
he agreed with me that 1 oz per gallon results in big time smoking and good chance of fouling plugs
There is no way i would run 1/2 oz per gallon. That is way too little in my mind. I have absolutly no smoke running the 1+ oz per gallon. I don't foul plugs either. If you are fouling plugs, with that ratio, maybe you should look at your tune or ignition.
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From: NC
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 315
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From: NC
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Well don't I feel like a peckerhead, I guess I shouldnt post at 0630 
Mark, you're right about 128 ounces in a gallon, not sure where the 164 came from. My ***, apparently
Anyway, just spoke to the guys at RX7.com, who also sell idemitsu. It's funny, but they told me the opposite of what you were told.......8 ounces per tank is for cars with a working OMP, and they recommended 100:1 ratio for cars without, or for ease of use 1 oz per gallon of idemitsu for cars with deleted OMP.
the plot thickens......
Mark, you're right about 128 ounces in a gallon, not sure where the 164 came from. My ***, apparently
Anyway, just spoke to the guys at RX7.com, who also sell idemitsu. It's funny, but they told me the opposite of what you were told.......8 ounces per tank is for cars with a working OMP, and they recommended 100:1 ratio for cars without, or for ease of use 1 oz per gallon of idemitsu for cars with deleted OMP.
the plot thickens......
Will work for horsepower
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From: Springfield, MO
The idemitsu reps at the race track 3 years ago put in more than 1/2oz per gal in Carlos car. And like the others i have never fouled a plug 10.5 ngk on the street and it does not smoke. I think on a higher h/p car with fuel dilution more is safer! But i would like an expert to give the facts.
When my last engine was torn down the builder said the seals had excessive wear from lack of lubrication and that was at a general 1 oz / 1 gal, so i have been adding more with this motor. Honestly making this much power, i think its a good idea to use more. I could give too ***** if it smokes...even though it doesn't.
Constant threat
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From: near Wichita, Kansas
I used Klotz exclusively in my ATVs and motorcycles over the years...ya gotta love that sweet smell! Haven't tried it in the FD yet.
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I linked a guy who is running 400:1 and he apparently did it for a long time, the seals just don't need that much oil, it's not like a two stroke
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from the Royal Purple FAQ section
http://www.royalpurple.com/rp-faqs-wu.html
http://www.royalpurple.com/rp-faqs-wu.html
In an ideal world, the rotary engine metered oil pump should inject an ashless oil designed to burn in the combustion chamber and use a four-cycle oil in the crankcase for the eccentric shaft, rotor bearings and thrust bearings. For the street, Mazda simplified the OE system to use just one oil, that being a typical four-cycle oil for both the e-shaft as well as the combustion chamber. Royal Purple recommends using our standard 2-Cycle TCW III if the metered oil pump is still enabled. The two-cycle oil being added to the fuel tank is in addition to what Mazda designed to inject and acts as a supplement or insurance. Depending upon which engine, the level of modifications (street port, Bridgeport, peripheral port, nitrous turbocharged) and application, the typical mix ratio could vary from 200:1 to 800:1.
For a pure racing application where the metered oil pump has been disabled or removed, again based on the actual engine and modification level, the ratio could vary from 150:1 to 600:1. For this application, we recommend our 2-Cycle TCW III Racing or the standard 2-Cycle TCW III.
A stock FD twin turbo 13B with the MOP oil injection system can typically use about one quart per 1500 miles under hard street driving. If this vehicle is getting 15 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio is 400:1. If the oil consumption on this vehicle reduces to 1 quart per 2500 miles and fuel efficiency increases to 20 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio increases to 600:1. The stock metering oil pump is a great system as it varies with throttle position (load on the engine). Pre-mixing has to be calculated for the ‘worst case’ that will be seen by the engine for that fuel load. Under racing conditions, that’s wide open throttle at racing rpms. This means that at idle, the ratio may be slightly fat (rich).
For a pure racing application where the metered oil pump has been disabled or removed, again based on the actual engine and modification level, the ratio could vary from 150:1 to 600:1. For this application, we recommend our 2-Cycle TCW III Racing or the standard 2-Cycle TCW III.
A stock FD twin turbo 13B with the MOP oil injection system can typically use about one quart per 1500 miles under hard street driving. If this vehicle is getting 15 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio is 400:1. If the oil consumption on this vehicle reduces to 1 quart per 2500 miles and fuel efficiency increases to 20 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio increases to 600:1. The stock metering oil pump is a great system as it varies with throttle position (load on the engine). Pre-mixing has to be calculated for the ‘worst case’ that will be seen by the engine for that fuel load. Under racing conditions, that’s wide open throttle at racing rpms. This means that at idle, the ratio may be slightly fat (rich).
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From: NC
http://www.rotorhead.ca/topic.php?fldr=tips&cntnt=oil
...back to the pre-mix option: The racing community has been going this route since the early '70s, when Mazda rotary-powered cars were first exported from Japan to the rest of the world. About 1/2 cup of 2-cycle oil is poured into the fuel tank when near empty and then the tank is filled with fuel, creating a thorough mix. The metering pump and delivery lines are discarded and a block-off plate is installed where the pump used to mount on the front lower right corner of the engine. This is simple and it works.
ive got a question i havnt really seen discussed.
does the premix mix equally throughout the gas?
it seems like it would settle in one place or another according to its consistency.
does the premix mix equally throughout the gas?
it seems like it would settle in one place or another according to its consistency.
Why not just keep the OMP and use the Rotary Aviation adapter and run an external reservoir? I realize this is not an option for some who use aftermarket ECUs; but it lets you just dump the premix into a reservoir and the OMP does all the work.
I have been running my engine with the adapter for quite some time now, with Idemitsu premix in the reservoir and it works great.
-Dan
I have been running my engine with the adapter for quite some time now, with Idemitsu premix in the reservoir and it works great.
-Dan
I have a question also. What kind of effect does premix have on the fuel filter. I have just over 10K miles and have started to modify it. I added a coated dp,ast,cheap bastard intake and plan on a boost gauge, Profec b, and a RB catback with a Pettit custom ECU. I just ordered Idemitsu premix. The car had a new fuel filter in 2003 at 3500 miles. I have been told by Pauly at Aim Tuning in Indy that the fuel filter should still be good. But I will be changing it soon. I did not discuss premix with Paulie. I would think that premix would shorten the life of the filter. Any thoughts?
this is more speculation, the fact is you or your builder can't make a connection between the pre-mix ratio and "accelerated wear"
I linked a guy who is running 400:1 and he apparently did it for a long time, the seals just don't need that much oil, it's not like a two stroke
I linked a guy who is running 400:1 and he apparently did it for a long time, the seals just don't need that much oil, it's not like a two stroke
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From: NC
Why not just keep the OMP and use the Rotary Aviation adapter and run an external reservoir? I realize this is not an option for some who use aftermarket ECUs; but it lets you just dump the premix into a reservoir and the OMP does all the work. I have been running my engine with the adapter for quite some time now, with Idemitsu premix in the reservoir and it works great.
pre-mix is the ultimate in reliability, which is why motocross racers and people who race waverunners all use it