PPF replacement
#1
PPF replacement
Just got my FD 2 days ago and it comes with quite a bit of problems, the PPF is broken and there’s another part that’s broken which I think is the Diff brace, what causes these to break and can y’all see anything else that might need to be replaced?
#6
half ass 2 or whole ass 1
iTrader: (114)
An aftermarket ppf is incredibly rare and aggressively expensive. They all start out as stock ones and then they just reinforce them. The same yours would be if you got it repaired by a competent welder. From the pictures it doesn't look like you have a diff brace at all. The ppf is also the diff brace on a stock fd.
The following users liked this post:
kiddoh (09-16-21)
Trending Topics
#9
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
Many times PPF's break from hard launches on cars making a lot of power. I've also seen bent PPF's as well.
I wouldn't try and repair that, it maybe could be done but there's a lot of geometry there. Most likely if it is fixed you'd have your shifter hard against the firewall tunnel or something dumb like that.
Get a good used one and be done with it.
Dale
I wouldn't try and repair that, it maybe could be done but there's a lot of geometry there. Most likely if it is fixed you'd have your shifter hard against the firewall tunnel or something dumb like that.
Get a good used one and be done with it.
Dale
#10
An aftermarket ppf is incredibly rare and aggressively expensive. They all start out as stock ones and then they just reinforce them. The same yours would be if you got it repaired by a competent welder. From the pictures it doesn't look like you have a diff brace at all. The ppf is also the diff brace on a stock fd.
Many times PPF's break from hard launches on cars making a lot of power. I've also seen bent PPF's as well.
I wouldn't try and repair that, it maybe could be done but there's a lot of geometry there. Most likely if it is fixed you'd have your shifter hard against the firewall tunnel or something dumb like that.
Get a good used one and be done with it.
Dale
I wouldn't try and repair that, it maybe could be done but there's a lot of geometry there. Most likely if it is fixed you'd have your shifter hard against the firewall tunnel or something dumb like that.
Get a good used one and be done with it.
Dale
Thanks yall!
#12
Rotary Enthusiast
Does anyone have pictures or diagrams for a reinforced PPF? I'm wondering where it needs extra bracing and how to go about it
The following users liked this post:
kiddoh (09-17-21)
#16
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
It's held in the air by rear subframe, and aligned by the driveshaft, will be just fine while changing out the PPF. If you end up taking off the driveshaft then the front nose would want to rotate down and would then be held by the axles, so having somehting under the front nose at that point would be good to not put too much stress on the CV Joints
Last edited by Ziggy; 09-17-21 at 09:14 AM.
#17
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
The diff will be held up by the diff mounts through the whole procedure so you are fine there. Yes, you can do this on jack stands, it's not that bad. Probably hardest thing is just removing the main cat or midpipe if you have rusty old bolts. If you have the main cat you will want a jack under it as it's quite heavy and bulky, like 40-50 pounds.
It also helps to have someone else help out, it's an awkward job but not too bad.
I could probably swap a PPF out on jack stands in my driveway in an hour. Having impact tools helps a LOT as well, the bolts and nuts for the PPF are really on there.
Dale
It also helps to have someone else help out, it's an awkward job but not too bad.
I could probably swap a PPF out on jack stands in my driveway in an hour. Having impact tools helps a LOT as well, the bolts and nuts for the PPF are really on there.
Dale
#19
RX-7 Bad Ass
iTrader: (55)
^In theory, but in practice I've re-used PPF nuts many times with zero problems.
They aren't an exotic torque-to-yield bolt for a head or something. Just tighten properly and you are good.
Dale
They aren't an exotic torque-to-yield bolt for a head or something. Just tighten properly and you are good.
Dale
The following users liked this post:
Slides (09-18-21)
#22
Arrogant Wankeler
A separate diff girdle and front mount/ppf attachment point to body brace, in addition to a gearbox/ppf mount to body brace are both more serviceable and provide strength where it is actually needed.
I bought a brace like the combo one pictured. You are asking for diff leaks/housing torsion, an independent girdle that fits under the diff cover is better, with a separate diff nose to body brace, likewise a gearbox to body brace. You will get a bit more driveline noise but the whole thing will respond better on turn in and to driveline torque.
Marcus Read in Australia makes rubber mount, stainless gearbox and diff braces and green Brothers in New Zealand do a diff girdle if you don't want to make then or can't source them there.
I bought a brace like the combo one pictured. You are asking for diff leaks/housing torsion, an independent girdle that fits under the diff cover is better, with a separate diff nose to body brace, likewise a gearbox to body brace. You will get a bit more driveline noise but the whole thing will respond better on turn in and to driveline torque.
Marcus Read in Australia makes rubber mount, stainless gearbox and diff braces and green Brothers in New Zealand do a diff girdle if you don't want to make then or can't source them there.
#23
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (283)
A separate diff girdle and front mount/ppf attachment point to body brace, in addition to a gearbox/ppf mount to body brace are both more serviceable and provide strength where it is actually needed.
I bought a brace like the combo one pictured. You are asking for diff leaks/housing torsion, an independent girdle that fits under the diff cover is better, with a separate diff nose to body brace, likewise a gearbox to body brace. You will get a bit more driveline noise but the whole thing will respond better on turn in and to driveline torque.
Marcus Read in Australia makes rubber mount, stainless gearbox and diff braces and green Brothers in New Zealand do a diff girdle if you don't want to make then or can't source them there.
I bought a brace like the combo one pictured. You are asking for diff leaks/housing torsion, an independent girdle that fits under the diff cover is better, with a separate diff nose to body brace, likewise a gearbox to body brace. You will get a bit more driveline noise but the whole thing will respond better on turn in and to driveline torque.
Marcus Read in Australia makes rubber mount, stainless gearbox and diff braces and green Brothers in New Zealand do a diff girdle if you don't want to make then or can't source them there.
To-date there are over 265 very happy users of the HPP 2in1 Diff Brace/Cradle.
The following users liked this post:
SpinningDorito (09-24-21)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RotaryBuddha
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
26
07-18-08 05:23 PM