Actually there is an E/L Unit which senses Blower Motor on 3 & 4, Headlight ON, Rear Window Defroster ON and then passes this info along to the ECU. Page F-135 of 94 Service Manual. A scan is included below.

I have confirmed that the fans will indeed turn on at a lower temperature when an Electrical Load Condition is present (Blower on 3 & 4, Parking/Head Lighhts). Therefore if can, in that sense, be seen as a more agressive map.

Actual fan speed is determined by the number of fan relays on. Relay 1 (by AC Sensor), Relay 2&4 (by ECU), Relay 3 (by Water Thermo Sw). The number of conditions (1, 2 or 3) determines the speed Low, Med or High. Page F-144 of 94 Service Manual. A scan is included below.

 

Here is the Fan Control schematic

 

If this has already been posted it needs to be posted again...

DON'T GO TO MAZDA DEALERS!

 

HAHAHAHAH I got 4 bucks in change and 2 bolts I founf mysteryously(sp?).

 

Yes its possible. Only by movement of the girl, cause you for damn sure ain't moving. Also tell her not to grab the rear view mirror(they dont hold up to pulling on them, also a nice mirror to see whats going on if you get my drift.) For some reason she loves it in the FD. Can't complain about that!!

 

When starting the car, be SURE to warm it up FULLY, before kicking in the turbos. You have to let the seals, and all the internal components warm up, expand, and settle in before you start forced induction. If you don't, you can be sure you'll see blue smoke coming out your tailpipes.

1FAST7

 

Cool the turbos down! NEVER just shut the car off after 10-15 seconds. That is not enough. Invest in a turbo timer to idle the car down anywhere from 30 sec-1 min, or even several mins after racing.

1FAST7

 

Replace the stock pre-cat with a downpipe as soon as possible, as they all tend to clog, and overheat the engine.

1FAST7

 

Here is the post recall schematic. Which just adds the logic/timer box for post-shutdown operation.

 

Correct. I acknowledged the electrical load trigger causing low speed fans in my original post. My car did it before I got a power FC. Incidentally, I have yet to find any documentation about ELD being tied to the fans in the '93 and '94 shop manuals.

However this is not the same as the ECU directly knowing what the fan speed is. It merely knows that there is an electrical load signal be it for defroster, or blower or park lights or whatever, and that was my original problem with the post.

Furthermore, maxpesce still hasn't come up with anything demonstrating that one fan can operate at low speed, and the other at medium or medium/high as he claims....that's what I really want to see. I don't think its gonna happen....

 

midpipe/downpipe combination will result in boost creep. Port the wastegate to fix this.

1FAST7

 

It is possible to attain less than 60deg from you a/c when you have a FMIC by hooking up 2 17" (it think) fans to the condenser. Putting them on there and making them run takes about an hour and 30 min.

Blowing 3 motors in 5 months is not good on your pocketbook.

Changing the differential bushings on an FD requires that you remove both axles and drop the differential.

FD's roll on 225/45 16's

FD's have attained the nickname miniviper

The curbweight of the car sits right around 2800lbs.

Fd's can actually break on a bi-weekly basis.

Touring fd's have hard leather seats.



Ryker

 

Lunar7,

Now that's good info right there. I did some experimenting with my datalogit a few months back to see what the fans did and how they come on with various accessories coming on and off, so this is how I devised my fan "map" if you will. I know that the stock fans do come on at 100 and 105.

 

Ryker,

Let me add to this as well. The stock FD differential is a TORque SENsing diff, or TORSEN for short. It does not handle wheel hop well. If you blow your diff, there may be a chance that the axles will NOT come out of the differential casing. You'll have to pull the differential down WITH the axles in them....Not the most fun thing in the world.

 

Man, there are a ton of facts here. I was going to post a fact, but I don't have any that aren't already mentiones.

 

thanx alot for the replys. this has really helped me alot. i didnt expect to get sooo much feed back from this thread. and if there are more keep them comming.

 

Probably the least pleasing exhaust note of any car manufactured in recent history...perhaps ever. Sounds like a weedwhacker!

Gene

 

Mine has a black metal ring(I know this because it is slightly chipped) and it also has a lighted lock cylinder.

It's a 93 Base

 

this topic should be archived...

1FAST7

 

1992 Efini 2+2 Type R = no light no ring. This car is seriously stripped out. I mean they took everything....and then the original owner spec'd floor mats! lol

-pete

 

to effectively have "racing sessions" in the FD3S, you must first scoot the seat all the way back, and recline the backing all the way down, and remove the back "cargo wall." then there are 2 effective options, note i said effective.

1) Driver must lay back, and have his woman get on top, and "reposition" the hardware to fit into place. It shouldnt require any modifications, or jamming into place. Should fit like the M2 intake pipe kit. Then, have your "technician/mechanic" grab the harness bar that was revealed after removing the cargo wall, and let her have at the "twins." Driver must sit back, and hope for the longest E.T.'s during the spirited event.

2) have the seat all the way back, and have your "technitian/mechanic" position her face towards the floorboard, with her "power plant frame" in your face. Then, try different techniques so you can effectively pull off a .69 reaction time/position. Then, let her shifting hand work the stick, and you work her throttle, until you reach full boost. Once in the red, your injectors should be hitting %100 duty (as well as the T-88 LARGE single, or twins with custom exhaust), and will soon need to be relieved. Tell your partner to stop, and brace for the "slowdown" as she lets off the throttle. The wastegate should have only let out minimal amounts of boost during WOT, but when she finally gets off the throttle, the BOV should do its job, and release ALL excess pressure, as long as the flange/spring is not stuck in the closed position. That, or your piping is getting old, and you had some premature boost leakage.

That is how to effectively compete in an endurance race in the FD3S.

 

I took you serious until about the end...then I figured it out ...wait...wrong emoticon

 

lol Jspec, i was trying to see how far i could stretch the "sex in an FD" that someone posted up there before me, Hoping no one would notice till the end of my thread that it was indeed, sex and not Auto-X. Cha ching, it worked

another fact: the stock speedo on an FD reads 180 in the US. i think Jayspec can tell us what it is on the kilo side (i know our speedo's read kilometers underneath, but i never read it, and suck at conversions).

 

Ahh yes, the Japanese speedometer also reads 180 kph. SO we can buy speedometers from the states and put them in, and even though they say 180 mph, we know 180 KPH...

side note: 180 kph is actually 112.5 mph

 

every idiot around asks if it is a V-6 or a V-8