Please donate one fact bout the FD
Originally posted by jspecracer7
You can do an engine swap if you have these socket size and open/box end wrenches.
8mm/10mm/12mm/13mm/14mm/15mm/17mm/19mm/21mm/23mm
...those are the ones I remember using anyways.
You can do an engine swap if you have these socket size and open/box end wrenches.
8mm/10mm/12mm/13mm/14mm/15mm/17mm/19mm/21mm/23mm
...those are the ones I remember using anyways.
1JZ powered
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Originally posted by Orange!FD
SWEET! And I thought I'd need a hoist!
SWEET! And I thought I'd need a hoist!
Also + and - screw driver's don't hurt either. Neither do needle nose pliers or pliers in general, especially if you have the stock radiator hose clamps/fuel hose clamps.
Originally posted by mjw
Blackscorpio is in love with the map sensor, he posts about it at least once a day.. Why is my engine overboosting? Check your map sensor. Why are my brakes soft? Check your map sensor. Why did that Supra just pull on me like a Honda? Check your map sensor. Seriously, we all get it.. the map sensor can cause problems that only LOOK severe. I wonder how many hits I can get with the search button with blackscorpio posting about the map sensor.
Matt
Blackscorpio is in love with the map sensor, he posts about it at least once a day.. Why is my engine overboosting? Check your map sensor. Why are my brakes soft? Check your map sensor. Why did that Supra just pull on me like a Honda? Check your map sensor. Seriously, we all get it.. the map sensor can cause problems that only LOOK severe. I wonder how many hits I can get with the search button with blackscorpio posting about the map sensor.
Matt
mjw - I think your MAP sensor is busted. 
But Im usually right abot the MAP sensor though
. If you need some threads where i was right i would be happy to provide them.
Bad clutch switch will cause the car to stall in gear with the AC.

But Im usually right abot the MAP sensor though
. If you need some threads where i was right i would be happy to provide them. Bad clutch switch will cause the car to stall in gear with the AC.
Last edited by blackscorpio; Jul 18, 2002 at 03:12 PM.
Originally posted by jspecracer7
Stock cooling fans have a low and a high setting. Stock fans come on at 100 degrees celsius in low, and 105 in high. When you turn on your A/C from fan settings 1 or 2, the fans will turn on at low if they are not on already, or they will kick in on high if they are at the low setting. They will only do this if the water temp is 95 or above. If the A/C is on fan setting 3 or 4, then the cooling fans automatically go to high setting until they reach 95 celsius, where they will go back to low.
Stock cooling fans have a low and a high setting. Stock fans come on at 100 degrees celsius in low, and 105 in high. When you turn on your A/C from fan settings 1 or 2, the fans will turn on at low if they are not on already, or they will kick in on high if they are at the low setting. They will only do this if the water temp is 95 or above. If the A/C is on fan setting 3 or 4, then the cooling fans automatically go to high setting until they reach 95 celsius, where they will go back to low.
Low is used if you have an electrical load trigger present (not all cars), or if the coolant is below 105 C and the A/C is on OR if the coolant is between 105 and 108 and the A/C is off. It is also used if the TFA pin of the diagnostic connector is grounded, as well as the case of a fault in the thermoswitch circuit.
Medium is used if the A/C is on and the coolant temp is between 105 and 108, or if the coolant temp is above 108, and the A/C is off.
High is used if the A/C is on, and the coolant is above 108.
High speed fan operation should rarely be encountered on a healthy car.
The ECU cuts off the A/C compressor if the coolant temp goes above 117 C. It turns it back on once the coolant temperature has dropped below 115 C. Only if you have the A/C turned on, of course.
3rd gen RX-7's are the cheapest true sports cars you can buy right now that will do 150mph-160mph stock and over 170+ with 2-4k turbo upgrade. (Average price should be about 10-12k for a stock FD, although most are running for about 20k now)
Also, reliability Mods will run you about 1-3k and even then, it will still be just as unreliable as when you started.
(Note: A new engine will cost about 2-3k and cost about 1-2k for someone to install it for you)
Also, reliability Mods will run you about 1-3k and even then, it will still be just as unreliable as when you started.
(Note: A new engine will cost about 2-3k and cost about 1-2k for someone to install it for you)
Mazda model and color breakdown in the US per year
http://www.houston-rx7.net/archive/tech/fd/
enjoy.
http://www.houston-rx7.net/archive/tech/fd/
enjoy.
Wrong Again, when the interior fan switch is in position 3 or 4 the ECU uses a more agressive cooling fan map that puts the c-fans to HIGH sooner - regardless of weather the AC is on or not. Also there are actually MORE than 3 fan settings, EACH fan is capable of three speeds and are controlled independently. The ecu is capable of at least 4 settings, 5 if you count BOTH OFF as a setting. 

Originally posted by JM1FD
SO WRONG. The fans have three speeds. There is an ECU based fan trigger (105C), and a thermoswitch fan trigger (108 C). The cabin fan speed plays no role whatsoever...
High speed fan operation should rarely be encountered on a healthy car.
SO WRONG. The fans have three speeds. There is an ECU based fan trigger (105C), and a thermoswitch fan trigger (108 C). The cabin fan speed plays no role whatsoever...
High speed fan operation should rarely be encountered on a healthy car.
According to the insurance industry and KBB (Kelley Blue Books) the 93-95 RX-7 is the ONLY used vehicle to experience a 5% or greater rise in FMV (fair market value) in 2001-2002. 
My guess is that was due to VIN Diesel (hell of a name don't you think) in the heavily modded 3rd gen in F&F (Fast & Furious).

My guess is that was due to VIN Diesel (hell of a name don't you think) in the heavily modded 3rd gen in F&F (Fast & Furious).
Last edited by jeff48; Jul 18, 2002 at 06:01 PM.
stock turbos are most reliable at stock boost levels
sure you can turn up the boost with a controller but from my experience they will produce too high heat and will become brittle, leak, and will send small pieces of the wheels through your engine if abused at over 12lbs boost.
anything over 14lbs on the stockers produces huge amounts of heat
j
sure you can turn up the boost with a controller but from my experience they will produce too high heat and will become brittle, leak, and will send small pieces of the wheels through your engine if abused at over 12lbs boost.
anything over 14lbs on the stockers produces huge amounts of heat
j
Last edited by artguy; Jul 18, 2002 at 07:54 PM.



Well said!!