pweizman

Is Pineapple racing a reputable place to purchase rebuild engine?

Their price for a base rebuild is:

93-95 13B-REW TT $1900

Also, how difficult is it to remove the engine, and replace it with a rebuild one?

I am a very handy guy, and have wrenched on many cars...Hondas, Mitsus, Chrysler, Fords, etc.. I am also a Mechanical Engineer...

So, is it very difficult?

I am looking to buy a '93 that has 106K on the clock, and it will probably need a rebuild withing a year or so.

It was compression checked about 6-8 months ago, and one rotor came up a bit shy of the minimum. It only measured 6.6 bar.

I am having it checked again before I buy it, to see if it has gotten worse. I am hoping to drive the car a bit this year, and rest it over the winter. Then drive it next spring and summer, and do the rebuild in the winter..

What do you guys think?

Later,
Patrick

Bacon

iTrader: (12)

pullin engine = piece of cake... puttin it back in is a bit harder if ur sequental b/c u have to put it all back together...but its all strait forward, just remember to un do the press plate from the flywheel( like an torque converter witha auto)..and it comes right out..

if u down load the manual it goes throught it pretty good, but it says to pull the wiring harness, but u can undo all the solonid connections and leave the harness untouched throught the fire wall

djantlive

I've heard all sorts of good things about Pineapple Racing. The only negative thing I've heard is that they don't install the motor. Their rebuild is one of the best as rated by many forum members.

I would probably keep driving it until the motor gives up. If the compression was done properly, I would guess you can get at least another 8-10K miles out of it if you take things easy.

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Keep in mind, that if you actually blow up the motor (loose an apex seal, bearings etc.) it'll probably cost you more as i don't think he has to many of those cores laying around. Not to mention, you'll probably end up relpacing the turbos if you loose an apex seal....but then again...with 100k....it probably needs it anyways. Good luck, CJ

WhtRocket

When I asked a similar question a couple months ago, pineapple came up as the highest recommenended ( on a small data set -like maybe 20 replys). Only positive antidotal (sp) comments and no hard numbers.

Trust me. Total engine failure is worse that pulling it before meltdown. At 100k+ miles the turbos will be toast unless recently done. At that age the radiator is going to crack too so plan on a fluidyne or mazda comp while the engine is out. Still got an AST? I'd replace or dump it at rebuild time. Got clutch? shifts into fifth ok?

pweizman

The clutch has been done already.

The AST has been replaced by the dealer, with another plastic unit. It did run hot when the plastic unit failed. The owner shut the car down immediately when the light came on and had it towed.

The dealer went over the car and didn't find any damage done by the overheat.

I am having the dealer do a complete check up on the car again before I commit to buying it. I will plan on a rebuild next winter. I would guess I will only put a few thousand miles on the car between now and the rebuild...so I hope it will be ok.

When I do the rebuild I will probably do the turbos and a new radiator too..

Thanks,
Patrick

marrywanna

hi my engine just flooded and the result was cuz it was getting old, last rebuild almost 7 years ago and the compression is about 6.3 at the moment so the current mapping made the car run too rich resulting in the spark plugs not firing.
was just wondering what is the best option, non financial wise but power and engine health wise
1. 2nd hand half cut
2. engine overhaul and rebuild
3.order r spec engine from mazda
4. get a engine built by knightsports.
from what i hear the engine builds from kngihtsports is just them putting in the ordinary parts and building the engine n running in the engine for u so u can just plonk it into the car.

current engine mods to car are radiator vmount with intercooler, air intakes, ast, down pipe with straight through exhaust system and apexi pfc ecu,
help asap decisions have to be made, lol spanks

MrNizzles

iTrader: (5)

to the OP, don't trust the dealer for ****. if they did the comp test, make sure they had the right cranking rpms. post results here if u have them. get a coolant pressure test done. try to get it looked at somewhere else besides the dealer..

how well does it boost now? does it smoke beyond a few mins after startup?

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

This thread is from 2001