I have searched and read as many threads on this as I can. Nothing is helping. My driver side window works, albeit slowly, but my passenger side will not except on one rare occasion.
I have pulled the switches off, checked voltage on driver and passenger sides all reading 11.53 off white/blue. Driver side when I hit the window switch for passenger, black/yellow wire changes voltage indicating power flux/it’s working. But the window doesn’t move.
Fuse is fine under dash. I even used an extra passenger switch I have and it didn’t work so I doubt it’s the switch.
In short I seem to have power, switch doesn’t seem the be the issue, I’m stumped and have a half rolled up
window so I can’t drive and leave my car anywhere.
Anything I’m missing or have not checked? My connectors are clean as well, checked them all.

 

The flasher relay under the dash has something to do with window operation for whatever reason. For the time being, you can give the motor power directly to roll the window up or down. You don't have to remove the door panel to do this as you can do it through the plug for the respective switches.... or you can take the panel off lol.

 

Alright, jumped the switch and got it to roll
up. Motor is good, but, still won’t roll up from driver or passenger side. So, because driver side doesn’t roll it up, I’m guessing it’s not the passenger switch either.
Let me ask this. My left blinker hyper blinks, and my window doesn’t roll up, sound like the Flasher relay F100 I think?

 

Very well could be

 

First of all, do you have a copy of the FD's FSM wiring diagrams? They are available for free download in PDF form, links can be found here by searching the forum. Below is the power window circuit schematic from the '93 FD, USDM. If yours is a JDM, or different year it may be slightly different (i.e., wire colors may be different; JDM left/right door wiring is mirror image of USDM). Anyway, if you can understand the schematic, you'll see that power window operation has absolutely nothing to do with the flasher relay or F100 CPU box. If your left blinker hyper blinks on a stock, unmodified FD it means 1 of 2 things - either one of the turn signal bulbs is dead on the left side (front or rear) OR someone swapped in an LED bulb for a regular incandescent bulb for the turn signals on the left side (front or rear). Both of those symptoms are normal operation; that's another rabbit hole to go down at another time.

Back to your power windows, after you jumped the motor on the passenger door, did you test it in both directions (up/down) a few times? If so, how would you describe it's mechanical operation - did the window go up & down fast & smooth, or was it slow & clunky in either direction? If it was fast & smooth in both directions, congratulations, you've ruled out any mechanical issues with the regulator that would cause the motor to work much harder than it should or not at all. FYI, if the up/down operation was still slow with the motor jumped, you can take apart the regulators, clean out all the old solidified/waxy grease and re-grease them with Honda Shin-Etsu grease which never dries up/solidifies. I know there's a procedure for this to restore the FCs power window regulators which I've done on mine here: FC3S Pro v2.0:Â How To - Power Window Rebuild Pretty sure you can do the same on an FD, though details will be different.

On your 1st post you said you read only 11.5-ish volts at the W/L wire on the window switches - is this at the window switches in both doors? Did you also measure the voltage right across the +/- battery posts? If so, what was it? Healthy battery should read about 12.3~12.6V, so if that's what yours was reading when your PW switches were only reading 11.5V, you've got a significant voltage drop indicating a poor connection on either the + or ground side of the PW circuit. The windows won't work well with only 11.5 volts. The first places I'd check is the ground return B wire terminals on both sides of the X20 connector, and then follow that B wire on the (D = Dash) harness back to where it grounds to the chassis at location (7). You're looking for signs of corrosion at the terminals, loose connections or any other sign (burnt contacts or X20 connector shell) that indicate a poor electrical connection. On the + side of the circuit, take a hard look at the W/L wire terminations on both sides of the X20 and X21 connectors. If all of the above look good and have solid electrical connections, don't discount the fact that the PW switches themselves may have worn out contacts - full motor current runs thru those switches, so the contacts will eventually fail, most likely the main driver's side switch fails first, because it's typically used more often to open/close both windows. As you can see in the schematic, the ground return for the motors takes a rather lengthy series path to ground point (7) via MANY switch contact points in BOTH (for pass. window) switches.

 

The P-side window went up and down full speed when it was jumped. But doesn’t move unjumped. I do have the wiring schematics and have checked the connections.
It was at 11.53 volts because I had been testing it turns outs. Battery eventually died, and then I jumped it, tested it while hooked up and it was 14+ volts and still didn’t work.
I had read that if the driver side is slow, it could be causing load to be too high, and it is definitely slow. I’m going to clean and grease it next to see if that is the issues.

 

I say the flasher relay has something to do with the windows because on my car it does. My car is rhd. When it's cold outside my windows, left turn signal and seat belt light start acting up. I get hyper flash on the one side turn signal and a rhythmic operation of the windows as the seat belt light flashes. I troubleshot and it's all tied into my flasher relay.

Could be coincidence maybe but thats how my car is. Never bothered to check against a usdm although now that you mention that, in my lhd fd I don't have these issues when it's cold. Instead my airbag light hyper flashes and the seat belt light pulses but my windows function normally along with the turn signals.

 

That may be a JDM wiring difference then. As the USDM schematic clearly shows, the PW circuit has no connections with any relays or the F100 CPU.

 

If the windows go full speed up & down when jumped, don't bother cleaning/re-greasing the regulator - doing that certainly won't hurt anything, but it won't fix your root problem which is electrical. If the window still runs slow with the switches, I'm betting the switches contacts points are just burnt out with carbon deposits. As you can see from the schematic, full motor current runs thru the PW switch contacts, and for the passenger window, full motor current runs thru BOTH window switches in series.

You can try swapping out your main PW switch with one of these cheap ($15.xx) Chinese OEM knock-offs available on Ebay and elsewhere: https://www.ebay.com/itm/14577533814...3Avlp_homepage

If the windows operate normally afterwards, congrats! YMMV though with how long such a cheapo switch will last, but at least you will have isolated the cause of the problem.

 

Here is the master switch

 

well now... could be problem there lol get one of the window switches mentioned and go from there

 

^Yeah, looks like someone with debatable soldering skills attempted to "fix" that switch at some point in its past.

 

Ordered, let’s see if this fixes it. Driving with windows up and those fumes, giving me a headache.

 

All that wire chasing and the new master switch was the issue. Thanks for all the trouble shooting advice, learned a lot at least.