Prometheus

iTrader: (2)

all solenoids seem to be within spec (at both ambient temp and operating temp.)

I thought it may be an actuator issue, but they seem to be in working order as well.

any ideas?

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

The only way you'll get boost THAT low is a boost leak or bad turbos. I'm leaning towards boost leak.

It will probably be a substantial leak, like an intercooler coupler or something.

Even with all the solenoids screwed up, you should still get minimum 8psi of boost on the primary turbo.

Dale

Prometheus

iTrader: (2)

the thing is that when we started, we were getting no boost at all.

so we switched the turbo control solenoid out with another used one that was within spec.

no audible boost leaks that I can sense

is there a way that a solenoid can pass a bench inspection, but fail when applied in the engine bay?

could this be a check valve issue?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I would still pull all of the intercooler/y-pipe couplers, remove any covers, and pry/stretch them inch by inch to look for cracks.

If you're good there, take your Mityvac and a tee fitting and insert the tee in between the pressure chamber and solenoids. Verify it holds 10psi without leaking down. Then repeat for the vacuum chamber checking that it holds 25inHg without leaking down.

Dave

Prometheus

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys we'll give that a try first thing in the morning.

I appreciate the suggestions!

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Both work. Every factory system tests out perfect.

Going to try the following and report back:
1) Pressurize the intercooler/lines with 12psi and check for leaks
2) Test solenoids from the ECU to ensure the wiring is good
3) Check the Cat one last time

Other then that, its not looking for the turbos. I checked the free wheel spin on the primary. its definitely sticky. Does not spin like the several other pairs I have on hand. Looks like new turbos it is .

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

I'm still leaning towards a boost leak. A fairly large one will actually be pretty quiet.

Also worth checking to make sure the factory BOV's aren't staying open.

I had a big boost leak once from the Y-pipe being twisted a bit and not sitting flat on the flanges on the turbos. Boost leaks can be really sneaky.

Another possibility could be something majorly wrong with the wastegates, like the wastegate arm being disconnected or somehow stuck open. Also, massive restrictions like a severely clogged cat or intake can cause problems.

Dale

MOBEONER

iTrader: (18)

Boost leak. Even if a solenoid was the culprit U Should still see 6 to 8 psi.

Sideo

ive had a coupler come completely off and still boost a few pounds because it was still lined up witht he intercooler. but yeah the wastegate psring is 7 psi so u basically cant boost underthat without a leak, maybe if the charge control valve was stuck open and the turbos were ifghting eachother?

The Spyder

iTrader: (8)

Rigged up a home depot pressure test setup. Found a torn coupler (with some of the strangest tears I have seen... looks like little 1mm bb holes) Replaced- 2-3 psi.

Factory BOV/ Charge control pipes are new/hoseclamped. Inspected ALL couplers, intercooler, ect for leaks. Nothing.

Wastegates/controls have been inspected, tested to factory spec and found to be in good working order. My first thought was a stuck wastegate.

I am taking a cat elimination pipe in with me just in case. The exhaust thats on this car came from a trashed shell and who knows if anything got shoved down it while its been in storage.