I want to remove the omp searched but could not find the answers I need. will I have a check engine light if I remove it a diy would be helpful thanks in advance

 

why do you want to remove the omp....

if you remove the omp with a stock ecu you go into limp mode and your car will run like crap. if you have a pfc then you will be fine but then you will be needed to pre-mix.

if youre asking how to remove the omp and what will happen when you do, then i advise you leave it be

 

rebuilt motor not to long ago and really don't drive it much always ran premix in other 7s and yes it has a pfc. the fewer things it has the less problems it has to me

 

Oh. Then i guess you'll be fine to delete it if you REALLY want to.......

Just under no circumstance put the stock ecu back in with no omp. I would leave it alone if i were you but you do what you want

 

so is there any thing I should lookout for when doing this

 

Make sure you have the block off plate for where the omp would go. The left over plug you can cover and leave in the bay or just cut the thing off.

Make sure you have some means of covering the holes the oil jets would of
been in or just leave them installed and put vacuum caps on them.

The correct way to do it is to open up the wire harness and de pin and completely remove the wires for the omp from the harness.

If you still have the rats nest then all that has to come out for you to get to the lines and oil jets should you want to remove them.

The super short cut and lazy way to do it is to just cut and break **** until you get it out. You can find your own median as to how you want to go about it.

Good luck

 

We have an OMP removal kit, that includes the OMP plate and injector port plugs. Do not just put vacuum caps on the injectors, they draw oil from the side since they are a banjo fitting.

FD3s & 13B-RE OMP Kit

The PFC does not throw error codes, so you will not have a check engine light if you remove the OMP. It also will not throw a code if the pump fails, you need to go to the sensor screen to see if it is functioning properly. We have had numerous cars come in with malfunctioning OMPs that the owners had no idea. This is why it is wise to premix regardless.

 

With pre-mix only, when your injector duty goes to zero, so does your lubrication....happens during periods of decel, sometimes long periods, and often from high rpm.
IMHO, neither the OMP or Premix are ideal on their own. Option three...run both.

 

I never find myself decelerating for any extended periods of time longer than a maybe a few seconds, there is plenty of residual oil on the housings to protect the seals. The housings and plates have a high level of oil retention.

You would be shocked at how little oil the OMP actually distributes, this would be one of the reasons why there is such uneven wear on higher mileage rotor housings. Not to mention the frequency that the 1-way valves fail in the injectors allowing oil to be pushed into the air supply line.... or the fact that they get completely clogged, stop distributing any oil at all and throw no codes since it a mechanical injector failure.

Test for the early cars was to disconnect the OMP lines, set the OMP to the max output position and run the car at 2000rpm for 5 minutes while collecting the oil from 2 of the lines in a graduated cylinder, for turbo cars : 5.2-6.6cc after 5 min. @ 2K rpm

 

ordering right now thanks a lot

 

what hose kit would I need for the rats nest I currently have blue ones on a red car want to change these asap oh and how much of it would I need