OMP Failure mode only one line getting oil
#1
OMP Failure mode only one line getting oil
OMP seems to have failed in a weird way, only the rear rotor is getting oil. Oil injectors are new, Lines are new, Copper washers are new, Vacuum plumbed to stock turbo inlet location. OMP has likely 100K miles on it. Wired up to a haltech 2500 and configured to their specifications. Verified no lines are pinched behind the water pump or front cover. Really odd, are there separated pumps inside the OMP for front and rear or just one for both rotors? Possibly internally clogged/failed. Would need to swap it out for a known good one to verify. Just curious if anyone has seen this mode of failure previously.
#2
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That is weird, never seen that kind of failure. Couple of thoughts:
1. Some debris clogging up the line at the pump end of the banjo fitting?
2. If you inadvertently managed to leave an old crush washer on the fitting and slapped a 2nd new one on there too, when re-assembling the lines it's possible the banjo bolt didn't screw in far enough, so the oil passage holes won't complete the oil flow circuit from pump to line/injector.
3. You probably checked for leaks already, but a leak from pump end of the crush washer/banjo fitting on the dry line would cause the oil to simply bypass flowing thru the line.
1. Some debris clogging up the line at the pump end of the banjo fitting?
2. If you inadvertently managed to leave an old crush washer on the fitting and slapped a 2nd new one on there too, when re-assembling the lines it's possible the banjo bolt didn't screw in far enough, so the oil passage holes won't complete the oil flow circuit from pump to line/injector.
3. You probably checked for leaks already, but a leak from pump end of the crush washer/banjo fitting on the dry line would cause the oil to simply bypass flowing thru the line.
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F1blueRx7 (03-24-23)
#3
That is weird, never seen that kind of failure. Couple of thoughts:
1. Some debris clogging up the line at the pump end of the banjo fitting?
2. If you inadvertently managed to leave an old crush washer on the fitting and slapped a 2nd new one on there too, when re-assembling the lines it's possible the banjo bolt didn't screw in far enough, so the oil passage holes won't complete the oil flow circuit from pump to line/injector.
3. You probably checked for leaks already, but a leak from pump end of the crush washer/banjo fitting on the dry line would cause the oil to simply bypass flowing thru the line.
1. Some debris clogging up the line at the pump end of the banjo fitting?
2. If you inadvertently managed to leave an old crush washer on the fitting and slapped a 2nd new one on there too, when re-assembling the lines it's possible the banjo bolt didn't screw in far enough, so the oil passage holes won't complete the oil flow circuit from pump to line/injector.
3. You probably checked for leaks already, but a leak from pump end of the crush washer/banjo fitting on the dry line would cause the oil to simply bypass flowing thru the line.
Thanks Pete, when I put the new engine in I cleaned up the OMP really good, but just to make sure I went ahead and pulled the lines this afternoon, blew them out, blew out the banjo bolts and replaced all the crush washers with OEM that I had sitting on the shelf. It's working now, took it out for a little test rip and I'm seeing oil in both lines.
#5
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Thanks Pete, when I put the new engine in I cleaned up the OMP really good, but just to make sure I went ahead and pulled the lines this afternoon, blew them out, blew out the banjo bolts and replaced all the crush washers with OEM that I had sitting on the shelf. It's working now, took it out for a little test rip and I'm seeing oil in both lines.
One of the reasons I love my setup with the RA OMP adapter & pre-mix tank - if I ever notice the oil level in the tank isn't dropping at its normal rate, I know I've got a problem with my OMP system right away. Since I top off my OMP tank at every gas fill up & measure the oil consumption, I have a good metric on what "normal" is on mine.
#6
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IIRC, there are a few electrical tests in the FSM to check out the OMP (i.e., continuity/voltage checks and resistance of the stepper motor coils & OMP position sensor, etc.). On the FC & FB/SA FSMs there was also a OMP system level test where you remove the oil injectors from the block and stick the banjo ends of the open lines into a container, run the engine at idle for a specific period of time and then measure how much oil you collected in the container. Don't recall if the FD has the same kind of test in the FSM.
#7
Glad you got it fixed & found the problem before it could become a real problem!
One of the reasons I love my setup with the RA OMP adapter & pre-mix tank - if I ever notice the oil level in the tank isn't dropping at its normal rate, I know I've got a problem with my OMP system right away. Since I top off my OMP tank at every gas fill up & measure the oil consumption, I have a good metric on what "normal" is on mine.
One of the reasons I love my setup with the RA OMP adapter & pre-mix tank - if I ever notice the oil level in the tank isn't dropping at its normal rate, I know I've got a problem with my OMP system right away. Since I top off my OMP tank at every gas fill up & measure the oil consumption, I have a good metric on what "normal" is on mine.
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#8
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IIRC, there are a few electrical tests in the FSM to check out the OMP (i.e., continuity/voltage checks and resistance of the stepper motor coils & OMP position sensor, etc.). On the FC & FB/SA FSMs there was also a OMP system level test where you remove the oil injectors from the block and stick the banjo ends of the open lines into a container, run the engine at idle for a specific period of time and then measure how much oil you collected in the container. Don't recall if the FD has the same kind of test in the FSM.
its such a small amount of oil though, you're really just seeing if it works or not.
#9
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I have an RA adapter sitting on the shelf, went back and forth on if I was going to install it. Ultimately just decided to not install it, and just let it go as stock. After running two engines with no OMP I'm more of a believer in the oil metering system now that aftermarket ECU's can control and drive them reliably.
I have the RA setup on my FC and FD, but each car uses a different ECU - the FD runs a Link G4+ and the FC is on an AEM Infinity. Both ECUs use a similar OMP control map strategy - a 3D mapping of the % oil delivered (0 - 100%) versus engine load (MAP) and RPM. But each ECU drives the OMP stepper motor differently - the Link G4+ does it essentially the same way as OEM, a unipolar wiring arrangement that supplies +12V power to all 4 stepper windings, and grounds each of the 4 stepper windings in sequence per load/flow requirement. The AEM has you wire the 4 stepper windings into 2 winding pairs, and does a bipolar drive on each pair to get a similar control effect. Bottom line is that after measuring my actual oil consumption and calibrating the maps to deliver oil at a roughly OEM rate of 1oz per gallon of fuel burned on average, across all driving conditions, the OMP 3D control maps in each ECU look very different from one another in some respects. The Link G4+ has a more linear progression curve from zero load/RPM to max load/RPM, while the AEM map needed to be richer ramp-up in the idle/cruise regions to deliver equivalent oil consumption rates.
To calibrate my OMP maps on both cars, I initially ran with 1~2 oz of pre-mix added to the gas as a fail-safe, AND I let my OMP do its thing while closely measuring my pre-mix oil consumption when topping off the OMP tank at every gas fill up. That way I could get data on average oil consumption via the OMP/tank (ounces pre-mix to gallon of fuel burned), and then adjust my OMP map richer/leaner based on what I found and how I was driving over that particular tank of gas. Once I verified the OMP was delivering sufficient oil, I stopped adding pre-mix to the gas tank. Process took several months and lots of miles to get to the point where I was delivering enough oil and not fouling plugs. YMMV
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