i just did an oil change, and now when my car is idleing the oil pressure reads at zero, or just barely above zero, i used 5 w 40 royal purple, the level is good, and as soon as i give it some throttle the pressure is fine. anyone lend some insight?

 

The stock oil pressure gauge can often be very inaccurate. What kind of filter did you use?




=Ben

 

it wasnt fram.... i asked specificaly for it to not be fram, i dont remember the name. but it was a little more expensive

 

The gauge itself is fine, it's the sending unit that can go bad and give very low readings at idle. The sending unit is located on the rear iron, underneath the elbow. Bell shaped sucker. Ray Crowe at malloy mazda offers club discounts on OEM parts, you can call him at 888 533 3400. He owns an FD, so just tell him what you want, no part # needed

 

Make sure your connection to the sending unit is tight. A loose connection will cause a bad reading too.
(Hey Rich whats your last name?????)

 

Yo Mr Taylor,

Farrell, no relation to petah

 

5w40 is very thick oil. Try using 5w30 synthetic instead. Ford recommend using 5w20 for their engines. Although Mazda didn't join with Ford when the RX-7 was produced, you should try to read the service/owner's manual to make sure. Engines that specify 5w20 oil have tighter tollerences and using thick oil will cause low oil pressure. Putting 5w30 in a 5w20 required engine will shorten the life of your engine and potentially destroy it.

 

Not true. I use 20/50 which is thicker than he uses. The thicker oil will add more protection once his car warms up. And if its synthetic he will see no difference in pressure at all.

 

This isn't a ford piston motor, this is a rotary.

I'd recommend running 20w50 oil in warmer climates to protect your bearings under extended high rpm use. Just make sure you warm the car up thoroughly......this is what Chris and Ari at RP told me many years ago, and their word is golden with me

 

What about Colon?

 

Rotarys and FDs are just...different. Your advice doesn't apply at all.

Start reading the FAQ. Information about almost anything you can think of is linked or written there. It's stickied near the top of this forum.

Dave

 

20w50, non synthetic, always, always, no questions asked

and nothing but a Mazda filter.

5w30 or 40 is too thin.

 

PLEASE make sure it is the sending unit before you drive the thing anywhere.

I was told it was the sending unit and it wasn't. I really had no oil pressure! GL!

 

I agree with you, but wanted to point out that there's absolutely no reason not to use synthetic.

As I've stated in other threads, I recommend all my customers switch to synthetic after the motor break-in period, and these are warrantied engines

 

All of the advice given, except for the person who told you to change your oil, has been correct for the most part.

ErnieT has a very good point. This is the best path to start with troubleshooting, as it is the simplest. I'd like to add that when you check the connection, get some brake cleaner, electric contact cleaner, and a small piece of sandpaper. Sometimes, that single spade terminal can become corroded or gunked up with oil, which may cause a low or erratic reading.