I just bought my first RX7 for a great price after convincing the pervious owner that things like a leaky oil pan and spongey brakes were big enough to take $$$ off the asking price. But now I'm left with fixing the oil leak.
Has anyone pulled the pan w/o removing the subframe just to do a gasket change? Can you put a engine brace on the top to buy you an extra few inches or does the whole thing need to come out?
Thanks for any advice for a new owner

 

You need to at least drop the subframe down, likely you need to remove it.

I used an engine hoist to support the engine, if you have Mazda SST then you can use that or you can jack the engine trans up by putting a jack (and wood) on the trans if it is a 5spd.

 

You can't even remove the bolts from the pan without dropping the subframe!

 

I have a 2nd gen and i was able to remove the bolts using a 10mm swivel. The only thing is lining up the front bolts to go in straight and putting the motor mount back on.

 

Hate to tell you this Tanto but this is the 3rd gen section and they are different

 

If you do a search, you may find a thread that was posted a couple of months ago. A member posted his method of removing the pan without removing the subframe. I cannot say that it works, or doesn't works. I may be worth trying.

There is a rotary shop in LA that does the pan job for $300. That is the least expensive Rotary specialty shop I have heard of. Most are at least $400. I hope you got a good discount for the oil leak

 

He still had to jack up and support the engine/trans in order to remove the pan bolts and get the pan in and out. Honestly dropping the subframe isn't much work. Just put your stands under the chassis rails at the firewall and remove the bolts from the engine mounts, sway bar mounts, steering rack and then the subframe. Drop the subframe and let it hang from the suspension.

 

Here's the thread:

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=305386

Damon, Thanks for your input. I have a leaking oil pan, and am considering options. How much time to do this job your way?

Thanks

 

What I felt necessary to do:
With the engine supported (ghetto style),
http://www.negative-camber.org/crispyrx7/support.jpg
time to start removing parts (oil was drained the night before): undertray, swaybar, disconnect steering rack mounts (it's easier this way IMO), remove the front wheels and unbolt the motor mounts from the engine subframe. Next unbolt the engine subframe from the chassis rails and let it hang. Unbolt and remove the two motor mounts (good opportunity to check those mounts too). Disconnect the oil level sender - electrical connector. Unbolt the oil pan. By pulling down on the subframe there is just enough room to remove the oil pan.

I can see no way to R&R the oilpan without lowering the engine subframe. It need not be entirely disconnected but it must be lowered.
My 2 cents
Crispy

 

I've swaped the oil pan without lowering the subframe. I've also done it by lowering the subframe.

Let me just tell you, your not going to save ANY time by keeping the subframe in place. Its going to make the job to hard and slow you down to much. Just raise the engine as high as you can then lower the subframe OR just drop the subframe completely but you'll need somone to help you do that.

Good luck and have fun, personally if I could have it done for $300 it would be worth it to me cause I hate that job.

Stephen

 

Thanks guys for the info. I guess the subframe is coming out. My real reservation about doing it is getting the front wheel alignment done, again. It was a painful process the first time. I've tightened up all the bolts using a small 1/4" drive flex socket, but it still seems to leak. I don't think there's much gasket left to even seal against.
I did get a nice discount for the leak, so even $400 doesn't sound that bad.
Is there anything else that should be replaced while I'm in there?
Thanks again for the info for a newbie
-Aaron
-Aaron

 

hehehehe i just fixed this on my car =) i didnt drop the subframe, and it only cost me $15.00!! HONDABOND! from the honda dealer....

 

Yea, you need to either use Hondabond or the Mazda oil pan sealant ....both of which are expensive for some silicone (I think around $15-$25 a tube).

There is also some stuff that you can get at the parts stores called The Right Stuff and I've heard it works great but I havent tried it myself yet.

Make sure there is absolutly NO NO NO NO oil or any type of residue on any surface, this is ESPECIALLY important if you use just regular silicone like ultra grey cause it wont bond.

Good luck and have fun.

 

It really varies. I've done a few oil pan gasket replacements. On some cars, I had to lower the subframe. On a few, I didn't. It might be due to tolerances or dented pans?