Oil pan leak while using a Banzai brace?
07-14-13, 08:21 PM
#1
thats not paint....
Thread Starter
Oil pan leak while using a Banzai brace?
I noticed some oil underneath my car, decided to take a closer look and it looks like there is oil seeping out from the pan.
Just resealed it with the Banzai brace & kind of surprised. I have never had an issue before with RTV & no brace. I properly cleaned the pan & block, torqued to spec, permatex "right stuff", waited almost a week before filling with oil. First time bringing it up to temperature, the sub frame looks to be covered in oil. The few bolts I could reach I tightened up a hair, still concerned that isn't going to do the trick.
What gives ??? Is it worth it to even try to tighten the motor mount bolts more or should I just drop everything and start over?
Just resealed it with the Banzai brace & kind of surprised. I have never had an issue before with RTV & no brace. I properly cleaned the pan & block, torqued to spec, permatex "right stuff", waited almost a week before filling with oil. First time bringing it up to temperature, the sub frame looks to be covered in oil. The few bolts I could reach I tightened up a hair, still concerned that isn't going to do the trick.
What gives ??? Is it worth it to even try to tighten the motor mount bolts more or should I just drop everything and start over?
07-14-13, 08:57 PM
#3
thats not paint....
Thread Starter
Bolts / nuts. Yes all hardware came from the kit.
Wire wheeled the surfaces, picked out any old RTV for studs, used compressed air & brake clean, applied a bead on the inside of the studs & around the motor mount holes as pictured. Torqued everything to spec, evenly. Lastly motor mount bolts. Performed all steps within the dry time 10-15 minutes.
Wire wheeled the surfaces, picked out any old RTV for studs, used compressed air & brake clean, applied a bead on the inside of the studs & around the motor mount holes as pictured. Torqued everything to spec, evenly. Lastly motor mount bolts. Performed all steps within the dry time 10-15 minutes.
07-15-13, 05:54 AM
#4
The brace certainly is not causing the leak, which means your did something wrong during the installation of the pan. I am not going to argue with you since I was not there to do it for you, but I can tell you if everything was done correctly you would not be leaking oil.
07-15-13, 09:27 AM
#5
thats not paint....
Thread Starter
Considering I have done this procedure before without a hitch, its frustrating.
The only thing I can think of is a warped pan. I still made sure all edges sat flat on a work bench & tapped around the sealing area with a dead blow, especially the back motor mount area. (this is where most of the oil seems to be seeping). However in searching, you said the pan brace still seals with warped pans.
Looks like I will be re installing with a new pan
The only thing I can think of is a warped pan. I still made sure all edges sat flat on a work bench & tapped around the sealing area with a dead blow, especially the back motor mount area. (this is where most of the oil seems to be seeping). However in searching, you said the pan brace still seals with warped pans.
Looks like I will be re installing with a new pan
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07-15-13, 12:49 PM
#8
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07-15-13, 01:38 PM
#9
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I installed mine with a new pan and a Garfinkle oil pan brace and mine leaks. It sucks man! I have mid to high 300WHP or so.
I think mine is leaking where the motor mounts are. Over time I think the bolts on the motor mounts come loose and oil leaks.
Are there bolts I can throw in there and lock wire together so they don't come loose?
I think mine is leaking where the motor mounts are. Over time I think the bolts on the motor mounts come loose and oil leaks.
Are there bolts I can throw in there and lock wire together so they don't come loose?
07-15-13, 01:49 PM
#10
thats not paint....
Thread Starter
I installed mine with a new pan and a Garfinkle oil pan brace and mine leaks. It sucks man! I have mid to high 300WHP or so.
I think mine is leaking where the motor mounts are. Over time I think the bolts on the motor mounts come loose and oil leaks.
Are there bolts I can throw in there and lock wire together so they don't come loose?
I think mine is leaking where the motor mounts are. Over time I think the bolts on the motor mounts come loose and oil leaks.
Are there bolts I can throw in there and lock wire together so they don't come loose?
07-15-13, 02:33 PM
#11
Our kit comes with new longer motor mount bolts and lock washers, along with a stud kit and nuts to replace the pan bolts.
If the pan mounting flange surface has been previously gouged from removal with a screwdriver I could see the possibility of oil leaking, but a little warping would be straightened out when the brace is torqued down.
If the pan mounting flange surface has been previously gouged from removal with a screwdriver I could see the possibility of oil leaking, but a little warping would be straightened out when the brace is torqued down.
07-15-13, 03:40 PM
#12
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I know the engine mount bolts loosen over time and then the leak starts after they are loose.
Banzai, did you use lock washers on the engine mounting bolts?
07-24-13, 11:02 PM
#14
thats not paint....
Thread Starter
Just a follow up on this.
MAJORITY of my drip-drip-drip leak was from the front cover oil line crush washers. I still noticed seepage on a few rear bolts (after drying with brake clean & towels). This was observed underneath the car as it ran.
Still went forward on new pan replacement. While the brace was out, I drilled two new holes in it. One in the drivers side rear corner (and used an appropriate sized bolt... since the motor mount wouldn't allow clearance for a stud) and also the half-drilled hole along the back of the pan and used one of the extra supplied studs/nuts. With these extra bolts, I feel the oil pan (and therefor brace) have a better seal across all sides.
Opting AWAY from "the right stuff" and back to the trusted squeeze tube of grey RTV. My cramped fingers went through the entire 3.5oz tube, applying liberally (especially on the back of the motor).
I am pretty sure the brace is doing something, just not as fool-proof as I might have imagined. One thing I really wish, is that it had those two extra holes to begin with.... and maybe an extra bolt (instead of stud/nut) for that one covered by the motor mount. Doesn't seem like too much of an expense to include in the kit.
Pan is sealed and running dry
MAJORITY of my drip-drip-drip leak was from the front cover oil line crush washers. I still noticed seepage on a few rear bolts (after drying with brake clean & towels). This was observed underneath the car as it ran.
Still went forward on new pan replacement. While the brace was out, I drilled two new holes in it. One in the drivers side rear corner (and used an appropriate sized bolt... since the motor mount wouldn't allow clearance for a stud) and also the half-drilled hole along the back of the pan and used one of the extra supplied studs/nuts. With these extra bolts, I feel the oil pan (and therefor brace) have a better seal across all sides.
Opting AWAY from "the right stuff" and back to the trusted squeeze tube of grey RTV. My cramped fingers went through the entire 3.5oz tube, applying liberally (especially on the back of the motor).
I am pretty sure the brace is doing something, just not as fool-proof as I might have imagined. One thing I really wish, is that it had those two extra holes to begin with.... and maybe an extra bolt (instead of stud/nut) for that one covered by the motor mount. Doesn't seem like too much of an expense to include in the kit.
Pan is sealed and running dry
07-25-13, 07:31 AM
#15
It has nothing to do with cost, we supply one extra in case someone drops a stud or nut. The two other holes you are referring to are not supposed to be there, if we put them in the brace all it would do is cause confusion for the customers when they find out the holes do not exist in the pan. Then when they went to install their motor mounts they would find that the aluminum bracket can't be installed without modification.
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