not another synthetic oil debate!!
#1
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not another synthetic oil debate!!
Ok so anyways this is not a real huge debate but a question..
I have read countless posts on synthetic vs dyno oil.. and I have been running dyno oil in mine for awhile cause i felt better safe than sorry.. however many people run synthetic oil without issues...
My question is lets say synthetic motor oil is bad for our engines... and its bad cause its injected through the OMP, and it hurts the motors life etc...
if you remove the OMP is there any negative side effects of running pure synthetic motor oil then since it wouldnt be injected into the motor?? of course the premix id use would be synthetic but it wouldnt be motor oil either..
Just a simple question thats been on my mind for some time since my rebuild.. and Ive read many many posts that never really gave a straight forward answer or explination as to why you can or can't etc...
thanks guys in advance for your input on if its safe to do or not?
I have read countless posts on synthetic vs dyno oil.. and I have been running dyno oil in mine for awhile cause i felt better safe than sorry.. however many people run synthetic oil without issues...
My question is lets say synthetic motor oil is bad for our engines... and its bad cause its injected through the OMP, and it hurts the motors life etc...
if you remove the OMP is there any negative side effects of running pure synthetic motor oil then since it wouldnt be injected into the motor?? of course the premix id use would be synthetic but it wouldnt be motor oil either..
Just a simple question thats been on my mind for some time since my rebuild.. and Ive read many many posts that never really gave a straight forward answer or explination as to why you can or can't etc...
thanks guys in advance for your input on if its safe to do or not?
#5
Mr. Links
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The rotary isn't the only motor to purposely inject/burn oil. BMW's also burn oil, yet they run on synthetic. Its not as much of a problem today as it was 15-20 years ago.
However, IMO, I wouldn't remove the oil injection system. A better alternative would be to provide a separate reservoir for premix rather than just depending on adding premix into your gas tank:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/anyone-using-rotary-aviation-mop-adaptor-534079/
However, IMO, I wouldn't remove the oil injection system. A better alternative would be to provide a separate reservoir for premix rather than just depending on adding premix into your gas tank:
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/anyone-using-rotary-aviation-mop-adaptor-534079/
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the issue with that for me is I already removed the system and my lines were broke so I'll just premix to 100:1 and hope I don't smoke and kill my plugs like every oil change.
#7
Mazzei Formula
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car seems to smoke alot more with mobil 1
I have run mobil 1, castrol, and now royal purple
car smoked the least with dyno oil...i think mobil doesnt seal as well in the turbochargers and tends to fit through nooks easier although this probably means its lubricates better
I will always use royal purple for now on...its so much more free flowing than any oil ive ever used...I have 15w30 in right now and pouring the oil out of the can is like pouring out water compared to the 15w30 mobil 1...the engine seems to rev smoother and run cooler
I have run mobil 1, castrol, and now royal purple
car smoked the least with dyno oil...i think mobil doesnt seal as well in the turbochargers and tends to fit through nooks easier although this probably means its lubricates better
I will always use royal purple for now on...its so much more free flowing than any oil ive ever used...I have 15w30 in right now and pouring the oil out of the can is like pouring out water compared to the 15w30 mobil 1...the engine seems to rev smoother and run cooler
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#9
White chicks > *
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If you change your oil religiously, there is no need to panic on what oil you should use.
Just get a good name brand conventional oil (castrol, valvoline) and be done with it.
Its only oil.
I just started using valvoline 10w-30, your basic valvoline oil on the shelf, the one that comes in the white bottle with the blue label. Its fine. Oil is oil nowadays.
Just get a good name brand conventional oil (castrol, valvoline) and be done with it.
Its only oil.
I just started using valvoline 10w-30, your basic valvoline oil on the shelf, the one that comes in the white bottle with the blue label. Its fine. Oil is oil nowadays.
#12
40k worth of fail
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Don't use 5w30 in SGV even in the winter ... you just aren't cold enough.
The bottom line here is how many of our engines fail because of the type of motor oil used? Very few.
#14
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i found this thread in the 2nd gen section somehow clicky but figured i'd make a post in here, since i did mine for an FD. this is basically a quick write-up to let others know that there is an alternative to spending $100 on oil metering lines.
basically, i wanted to replace my oil metering lines, and was planning to get braided stainless steel lines. but as the expenses of building my FD are piling up, i'm trying to find ways to maximize the use of my money. i bought the materials to do this from McMaster-Carr (i've bought a number of things through them, they're a pretty good company). my order consisted of 5 ft of Teflon FEP tubing (part# 52355K12) and a bag of stainless steel double-pinch clamps (part# 54105K34), and my grand total, including taxes and shipping, came to less than $21. i somehow managed to get my order the next day, which was a nice surprise. the Teflon tubing is rated up to 400F, so it should stand the heat very well. it's also pretty durable. while i was trying to get one of the banjo fittings into an end of the tube, i accidentally bent the tubing over. i was happy to find that it didn't stay pinched where it bent, and there was no white "bend mark," either. also, in the description of the tubing, it says they are white/semi clear, but in person they are more clear than i expected. i used a cutting wheel on my Dremel to cut through the pinch clamps on the OEM lines to get the banjo fittings then used them on the new lines. just be careful not to buzz the fitting while you're cutting the clamp.
i cut one length of tubing to about 25" and the other to about 35" and that should give me some breathing room as far as length is concerned. be careful as you try to push the banjo fitting into the tubing, it's really tough to get in and you might mess up the tubing if you push too hard. i dabbed a touch of spit onto the banjo fitting to lube it up a touch (that sounds dirtier than it's supposed to) when i did the third and fourth fittings and it seemed to help. make sure you put the pinch clamps onto the tubing before you put the second banjo fitting on! if you don't, you've got to do some backtracking. i used a set of channel locks to pinch the clamps down and they worked just fine, so you don't really need any special tools.
all in all this project from start to finish took me about 50 minutes (pulling the banjo fittings out of the old lines and then make the new lines), which is definitely worth the $80 savings in my opinion. i'd post some pics of the finished product, but i'm currently camera-less. but there's really nothing to see, they're just clear lines with banjo fittings at each end.
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