rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

What are you using for a reservoir tank?

GARCO MOTORWORKS

My adaptor is from PCV Tech ,to answer your question I have made several tanks. My tank is triangle shaped and sits between the front rail the M2 air intake box and the ASP innercooler .it holds over 3 quarts .The first one I made Rotorbrain was round and was a catch can oil tank combo . The second one for him is just an oil tank . It is mounted where the air pump was . He may have a picture .I used the oil fill tube from a 12a in the tank so the filler caps match .

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

I have the RA MOP and I am using a OBX catch can I bought from Car Version 2. You can give them a call...the number is on their site www.carversion2.com . I'd be interested to see the resivoir that holds three quarts, I may be interested in one for my new car if you have extras.
-Dan

Here is a pic of the setup


and it installed in the car. It's not custom made, but it works. You need to install some sort of breather valve on the top so it will flow.

Busted7

two thumbs way up on the engine bay!!!! great wireing job very clean. If you wanted to offer any tips it would be great, as im putting in e6k while the engine is at the builders.

Aeka GSR

iTrader: (4)

have any more pics of that engine bay? that is super clean.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

I'll be using one similar to what Scrub is doing.

Also, you might have to do some work to the stock omp. You'll see what I mean when you are about to install it

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

What is the consumption rate?

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

What do you mean?? You still use Stock OMP but the oil is fed thru external tank instead of the engine.

This way you could use full synthetic in your engine and not worry about the whole issue of synethetic burning different than conventional oil, etc etc.. also you could use 2 cycle instead of regular oil (burns cleaner) and not premix.

Monkman33

iTrader: (28)

Oooooohh, that sounds like a good deal!

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

If you guys can where did you mount them. Any pics?

I have had a temporary tank rigged up for some time, and am only now getting around to finding a suitable permanent tank.

I have purchased a seodoo oil tank that comes out of the 951 engine series models (~1.5 gal), it is a very narrow tank and has a grounded activated oil level sensor built in and venting, so it will be easy to integrate into the stock level sensor to sound an audible alarm when either reach low levels.

I plan to mount it in the front of the car underneath the front bumper skin, and am looking how to get a standard oil cap fitting/bung, so if anyone knows where to get something like this?



One of the things I have wanted to do but haven’t really come up with a plan of action is to find a float/Electronically activated valve that would let engine oil flow to the tank after a certain low level was reached. It would be better than running no oil if the occasion ever came up for any reason, more of a redundant fail safe rather than something I plan on utilizing.

But like I said, I haven’t come up with any parts or ideas and was wondering if anyone would like to share there ideas on tank placements and maybe a system that could keep the tank replenished if need be.



Scrub: nice pic, do you drive that thing or are these pics from the build up?
That’s it next to the IC intake?

“The first one I made Rotorbrain was round and was a catch can oil tank combo”
Garfinkle: yah I think he told me about that one, I haven’t seen him around lately, where did he go? Is he still around?


I made some measurements and sized it up, and it should fit fairly snug but the capacity and number of refills per fill up will be worth it not having to worry about it all the time

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

What do you mean by work Phil?

I have had mine installed for quite some time now with no issue.

FJDRX7

iTrader: (32)

David:
Any pics of this tank, im looking for one ill try to call you today

WolfpackFD3S

The guy building my car and I decided to go this route with the RA MOP adaptor. He fabricated a cylinder out of aluminum but I can't quite recall the actual specs of it. I do know it will be mounted right next to the aftermarket AST which is in the stock location but I don't have a picture yet.

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

I know how the system works but I am curious how much oil the actual OMP uses.
1/2 quart every 1000 miles, etc...

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

IIRC its a100:1 ratio

Scrub

iTrader: (25)

rotarypower, I drive my car like that. It's not pictures from the buildup, thats how it sits today. I do have plenty more pictures of the engine bay, but it's not my favorite part of the car yet. I'm having some parts powder coated like the pulleys and the strut bar mounts.

I had to modify the heat shield on the MOP for the compressor housing of the turbo to fit properly.
-Dan

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Ahh... Maybe you have a single turbo.

I had to get the clip turned so that I could mate the oil lines for my BNR stage 3s.




polished reserve tank

GARCO MOTORWORKS

I had to reclock the electric part of the OMP to get the wires clear of the turbos ( super size BNR s ) I think I reclocked Phils as well .The oil tank should be above the OMP as it is gravity feed to the OMP .

tom.jelly

I've got a similar setup, but as I recall I re-brazed the oil drain line so the flange is turned to a different position so it doesn't interfere with the connector. I'm using a super size race master cylinder reservior from AP, but it is too small at only 12oz. so I have to check it too often. I think the ideal size would be about 1 to 1.5 qt. I will fab an aluminum tank with a level sensor when I get a tig machine.

Gadd

Hmm.. Define "reclock". Can you just remove the stepper motor and rotate it 180 deg?

tom.jelly

Thats what he means by reclock, remove it and turn it like the hands go round on a clock. It was a long time ago, I think I remember now- I didn't want to have to extend the wires for the OMP- I don't think you can rotate it to a different position unless you extend the wires. I can't remember for sure but either the bolt pattern was such that even if I did turn the pump it would interfere with something, can't remember what. In any case I ended up rotating the flange at the mating surface for the oil line where the straight part comes off the block and attaches to the ribbed tube.

GARCO MOTORWORKS

The motor has 3 screws and they are not equally spaced so drilling and tapping is needed , as well as some work to the inside of the stepper motor . The wires do not need any work .

Gadd

Ahh.. Thanks. Care to share what needs to be done to the stepper motor? Doesn't just push a shaft in the pump? I'm planning on getting the RA adaptor and setting up the pump like that soon.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Well I took the time to see if my tank was going to work for me, sadly it will not work as well as I had hoped. Fortunately it was only 10 bucks to check.


New plan...
So I am going to make a custom tank that will let me retain the stock reinforcement.


It looks like I can get a hold of some 4”x4” square tubing that will fit nicly under the reinforcment, without modification.

Plus new capacity will be ~1.9 gallons. I plan on using an extra stock oil pan level sensor I have and running the filler tube between the small space inbetween the front bumper and the front bulkhead.


The problem I have run into is I cant seem to locate a standard oil filler bung with the proper standard thread. Such as the one found on the oil filler neck?

The closest I have found is this, but not std threads.
http://www.billetspecialties.com/it...scid=85&pid=204

Anyone know where to get a standard sized and threaded aluminum oil filler bung?

Also does anyone know what the thread standard is for standard oil filler bungs would be?

If I could find this info I am quite certain I could make one for a few bucks.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

I noticed this topic came up again, and I had not updated my thread, so here are pics of the tank system I devised and built. HTH